Notifications
Clear all

Repair advice PRUSA I3 MK3 MULTI MATERIAL 2.0  

  RSS
Vegas Pay LLC
(@vegas-pay-llc)
Eminent Member
Repair advice PRUSA I3 MK3 MULTI MATERIAL 2.0

Something happened after testing at PRUSA and before I turned the assembled printer on for the first time at my home. It immediately wanted Z axis calibration and it was driving the nozzle down hard and bouncing the heat plate, bending the nozzle and leaving puncture points on the print plate. It was so new to me that I didn't realize yet how very bad that was going to be for me. I now know how to fix the PINDA to stop that from happening.

I've been working on this in my spare time for weeks from the top down instead of the bottom up because I have the MMU2 set up and working good before I can manage to get the first layer to work. Now I see it is impossible to get a first layer because I have that damaged nozzle.

I finally figured out what is wrong last night when I tried to print an over sized brim around a 70 x 70 x 5 square. I slowed down the speed so long it took 2 hours to print the first layer. This way I could see what my problem is. I set a configuration to print perimeters from the outside direction first to the center of the part. Strings on some sides were gaps between them when they should have been adjacent. And other sides were putting strings on top of each other causing the nozzle to rake everything off the plate on the next pass.

So I ordered a new nozzle and a new flex plate. My question is, what else should I be checking to make sure those are the only things that were damaged? The heater plate seems to be working just fine even though it was bounced in the 9 point calibration. So I see nothing wrong with it based on visual appearance.

Where can I order smaller diameter nozzles that are compatible to the heater block? I didn't see a selection of sizes at the online store. Just normal, hardened steel and ruby. But not the smaller sizes for better details.

The y axis can really fly when it is not extruding material. What if I was printing something tall and thin and top heavy? How does somebody adjust settings so that a tower shape doesn't rock at the sudden stops and sudden starts?

I'm trying something wrong in Slic3r. Different colors are supposed to be different layers, right? Am I supposed to be thinking in layers? I first thought I could slice a part to change the top and the bottom to be different parts that will be assigned different extruders. It arranged both parts flat on the print area when I didn't want that to happen. So, I modified the z axis property of the top piece and eyeballed how to place it back where it was. When I tried to change the extruder for that piece, Slic3r always crashes and shuts down. So I'm doing something wrong that will not work.

Does the firmware have a limit where it will start crashing prints after 150 or so color changes? Or was that just something I read somewhere that is not true?

Thanks for your help, guys.

Posted : 20/01/2019 7:46 pm
Share: