life adjust Z - my way  

RE:

Top left corner is -1.300. I had slightly more separation at -2.000 before I reseated the sensor.

Okay while I can see this model makes it a lot easier than the zig zag I’m going slightly nuts trying to get my Mk3S+ to work. I got to -2.00 on the adjustment and was getting separation still on the model. I’ve reseated the SuperPINDA and redone calibration (and cleared my first PTFE tube blockage which was fun) and I’m still getting separation between the lines at -1.300 and starting to get worried about how close the nozzle is to the sheet (LED on the PINDA sensor is off)

Should I go back round and try to reseat the sensor again? After my most recent reseat of it I had to switch off and check again as the nozzle was snatching at the paper sheet (but not actually tearing it). 

I have a resin printer so I’m used to having to do calibration prints and the like it just feels like all my adjustments haven’t actually done anything!

RE: life adjust Z - my way

what do the test patches, look like? 

I can't find my image, but this one may help (Note it's not based on the Mk3, but the pictures are representative. )

it's possible that the adhesion issue is due to poor adhesion, rather than wrong 'squish'
build plate cleanliness is also an important factor. 

I Wash my build plate with hot water and dish soap. rinse with hot water and dry immediately with plain paper towels. 

regards Joan

RE:

I did have the above in my original post, not sure why it was removed by the system.

Plate was cleaned before first use and has been cleaned following resetting the SuperPINDA just in case I touched it by accident. Hot water and a little washing up liquid as you say. Definitely dry when put back in place (left overnight in airing cupboard).

RE: life adjust Z - my way

what ever process you used to insert the original photo, resulted in added formatting information, which stopped the picture displaying... here is a clip from your post 

the red ovals encircle the formatting information which prevented the image from being displayed, I re-edited your first  post above, and the image now shows. regards Joan

RE: life adjust Z - my way

Thanks, never had that happen before but then I’ve not used a forum in at least 10 years!

So to expand further I’ve looked at the first image you put up and it’s clear that the nozzle is still too high off the bed as there is a mini “waterfall” of PLA between the nozzle and the build plate.

Confusion I’ve got (which I really don’t understand) is that I set the XYZ calibration and the initial stage without the build plate I had to adjust the PINDA as the nozzle was “snatching” at the sheet of paper (held in place so it was flat) and when it did the last calibration (not contacting the paper) the PINDA LED flickers on and off (presumably working as intended).

It feels like once you get on to the phase with the build plate the z-axis is not coming down as low as without the build plate in place (PINDA LED did not go out until at least -1.000 live z adjust). Z-axis home calibration the stepper motors do “rattle” at the top. I’d almost expect the reverse and that putting the build plate in place you’re either closer to the plate or the same distance.

Using 7 by 7 grid and magnet compensation is on, PINDA LED flickers on and off as z-axis does measurements at this stage but as above with zero live z-axis the PINDA LED is constantly on, checked PINDA operation in the LCD as well as described under the troubleshooting article and behaves as described. Standard smooth plate, nothing fancy.

RE: life adjust Z - my way

-1.000 Live Z is OK. 
the pinda thread is 1.0mm pitch, is you wish to reduce Live Z, you could reset live Z to 0.000 then unscrew the pinda (Move it upwards ) Half a turn, and re test Live Z, 

After raising the pinda, half of a turn, the new live Z should be in the region of -0.500mm

please be aware that the live Z for a smooth build plate will be a larger negative number than the live Z for a textures or satin, build plate, because the smooth build plate has a layer of double sided adhesive and a layer of PEI on top of the steel, whilst the textured and silk build plates, only have a layer of paint on top of the build plate

regards Joan

RE: life adjust Z - my way

Finally feel like I’m getting somewhere. This is -1.700 on the right and -1.750 on the left but looks a lot closer than it was.

Given Joan’s feedback above about the different build plates I feel I definitely need to move the PINDA again as I’ve got a satin coat plate to setup as well.

This is a lot better method than the zigzag pattern I feel but I’m as worried about extruder hitting the build plate as I was worried about a mistake in resin setup piercing the FEP!

RE: life adjust Z - my way

This is actually a lot more useful than the zig zag lines test. I was able to make 12 squares and experiment with increments of .1mm of 2mm thick layers until I hit what I think is a good Z height. Easily reproducible and less frustrating. Write the values on the squares with a Sharpie and set them aside for reference. Done. 

RE: life adjust Z - my way

erm, that's .2mm height squares. This finally makes that Live Z- tune useful to me. 

RE: life adjust Z - my way

Self assembled MK3S+ (minimal problems) attempting to print with PETG- generic. Windows 10 on desktop, recently upgrade of firmware to most up to date approved version. I have adjusted the sensor correctly and Z adjust is around -1.000. I have successfully printed the Prusa test print so the Z adjust is not far off, but when trying to print TUSH The ultimate spool holder I encounter stringing and blobs. I have also experienced recurrent problems with adhesion of prints to the print bed (yes i know all about cleaning the contoured steel sheet with isopropyl alcohol and dishwashing detergent and optimal print bed temperature so I do not need to be reminded yet again).  I would like to do the "life adjust Z-my way" procedure but have encountered problems. The Zipped files are easy to download but cannot import them into the Prusa Slicer software. In the Prusa slicer I have tried File-Import-Import Zipped achive etc with no useful results.  Stringing blobbing, print adhesion problems and the print bed power cable colours (black and black with red trace is an accident just waiting to happen), and an error message bug following firmware upgrade - seen by many others- create a poor impression for a printer that is expensive and supposedly top of the line. Creality is looking more attractive by the minute. 

RE: life adjust Z - my way

wow sogar noch nach 7 Jahren hilfreich, vielen Dank

RE: life adjust Z - my way

Did you solve this, I ran into a similar problem and it turned out that the filament was not good, it worked with other filaments just fine, so I ended up putting the filament in a dryer (food dehydrator) overnight and then it printed much much better.

Posted by: @machinist

Self assembled MK3S+ (minimal problems) attempting to print with PETG- generic. Windows 10 on desktop, recently upgrade of firmware to most up to date approved version. I have adjusted the sensor correctly and Z adjust is around -1.000. I have successfully printed the Prusa test print so the Z adjust is not far off, but when trying to print TUSH The ultimate spool holder I encounter stringing and blobs. I have also experienced recurrent problems with adhesion of prints to the print bed (yes i know all about cleaning the contoured steel sheet with isopropyl alcohol and dishwashing detergent and optimal print bed temperature so I do not need to be reminded yet again).  I would like to do the "life adjust Z-my way" procedure but have encountered problems. The Zipped files are easy to download but cannot import them into the Prusa Slicer software. In the Prusa slicer I have tried File-Import-Import Zipped achive etc with no useful results.  Stringing blobbing, print adhesion problems and the print bed power cable colours (black and black with red trace is an accident just waiting to happen), and an error message bug following firmware upgrade - seen by many others- create a poor impression for a printer that is expensive and supposedly top of the line. Creality is looking more attractive by the minute. 

RE: life adjust Z - my way

Yes I did. I was blindsided in part by a thermistor that was failing due to the grub screw being overtightened in the factory. Prusa supplied a replacement without delay.  The Z adjust was far too high, and this was solved by following Prusa guidelines and more importantly, using a calibration print in the form of a square with diagonal straight lines of filament. The thickness of the first layer was measured using a digital micrometer. When the thickness matched what was given by the person who posted the calibration print all my problems resolved. This was better than the calibration print that is provided by Prusa. I will hunt out the location of the print if you want. 

RE: life adjust Z - my way

Still some years late this post was useful for me. I am entering the 3d printing world and didn't feel confortable with the cuality of my prints so i didnt print quite much. Reading this post helped me and now the first layer looks nicer and the objects as well. Thank you a lot for the gcode and the idea of calibration test!

RE: life adjust Z - my way

Hello, I am a beginner Prusa MK3S+ user. I had to replace the nozzle because the previous one was no longer suitable and now there is a problem with recalibration, i.e.: I had settings of 1450 on the old nozzle and it was perfect, but I think it's too much for a printer (according to videos from Prusa it should be from -500 to a maximum of -1100. After replacing the nozzle, this threshold is almost twice as high. I improved the superpind to a little higher, but it's almost the nozzle is stuck on the table, can anyone advise how to fix it?

RE: life adjust Z - my way

Hi @kenyiro34, welcome.

There is more than one thread in this forum about first layer calibration (one of the bigger one being this one). It is a commen problem to have in the beginning.

First of all, the number you get when done is just an arbitrary number. It's a result of the mounting of your PINDA and the thickness of your sheet's coating. If you do something to your hotend (nozzle change ect) or change the printsheet you will get a new one, it's as meaningless as the first one - forget it. Just do the first layer calibration (I'd use the build in one before you try anyone else's way of doing it). https://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364 You will get faster and better in doing this and soon you will just need one run and everything is good. If for some reason you hit 2.000 and still need to go lower, adjust your PINDA a bit higher and start from the beginnig.