Issue with Benchy
I'm having trouble with what I think is called 'bridging' on open spaces 3DBenchy.3mf
You can also make out a bit of sagging in the small port hole.
The boat on the left was printed at 215°, the one on the right was 200°. I'm using eSun PLA+ which is a brand new roll.
Any help would be appreciated.
RE: Issue with Benchy
I would try more part cooling if PLA behaves like that.
RE: Issue with Benchy
How would I do that?
The printer is not in an enclosure, the room temperature is around 17°C and the bed and nozzle fans are 100% on throughout the print I believe.
RE: Issue with Benchy
OK, there's not more you can do there, I guess. :-/ Sorry, I have no better idea to offer in that case.
RE: Issue with Benchy
How would I do that?
The printer is not in an enclosure, the room temperature is around 17°C and the bed and nozzle fans are 100% on throughout the print I believe.
I wonder if your fan is dying. Can you video your front fan on full.
Please help me out by downloading a model it's free and easy but really helps me out https://www.printables.com/@Hello_474427/models
Check the fans are clean first.
Cheerio,
RE: Issue with Benchy
Thanks for you help. Ive cleaned both fans, there was only minimal dust to be honest and reprinted.
Both fans were running at 100% throughout the print. I've attached a small clip of the printing. Filament was e-sun PLA+ and the temperature of the hot end was 200°C
RE: Issue with Benchy
Are you sure that was 200c? Seems hot
RE: Issue with Benchy
Are you sure that was 200c? Seems hot
200 degrees isint hot. I print esun pla+ at 215.
Please help me out by downloading a model it's free and easy but really helps me out https://www.printables.com/@Hello_474427/models
RE: Issue with Benchy
Are you sure that was 200c? Seems hot
I'm assuming you're talking about the temperature of the hot end being hotter than 200°C . If so I'm wondering that too. The display shows the hot end at 200°C and the initial tests passed so I thought all would be ok. Is there a way to calibrate the temperature of the hot end?
I purchased the printer second hand, it was purchased originally in kit form and since I've had it I have found a few issues with certain things that I have now corrected. So I'm wondering if the temperatures have not been calibrated from the start, or is there other things that would cause the temperature to be read incorrectly?
RE:
No easy one. But have you tried a temperature tower? Starting from the recommended high point going down to at least 200°C. If it cloggs at some point 5°C above that point would be the absolute minimum I'd recommend. Look if all of the temps look somehow too hot on the tower.
Regarding sagging bridges. At which speed are you printing the bridge? I found that depending on the filament both, fast or slow can be valid strategies. I'd try both and see what works best. Or better a few speeds for bridging (all at 100% cooling of course): 20, 40, 60 and 80 mm/s for example.
Mk3s MMU2s, Voron 0.1, Voron 2.4