I bought a Core One Kit at the end of 2025, assembled it, and was able to make a few initial prints (keychain, boaty, and some small planters). I had no clicking or extrusion issues on the first print but the printer was on a table that vibrated too much so I stopped the print and moved the printer.  I never had an easy time getting a successful print after the first attempt. 

The printer will get to the stage where it creates an initial purge line but nothing is extruded and I hear clicking from the print head (gearbox). I could not fix this at the time so I resorted to adding a brim to each print, pausing the print, unloading->loading the filament, running a purge, then resuming the print. I did this for several prints and there were no extrusion issues/clicking after the purge. Then I had to pause any further troubleshooting/use of the printer due to life getting busy.

Now I am back to trying to fix this. Because I am able to get extrusion sometimes, I do not suspect a clog. I mainly targeted the idler tension. My concern was that I over/undertensioned the idler screws.

Here is what I have tried:

• Run a gearbox calibration. No issues
• Unload, load filament, purge. Sometimes this works, often when I add a little force on the filament by pushing it into the nextruder. Other times, I get clicking noises and nothing is extruded.
• Tightening the idler tension screws in increments of 5 rotations and running a print. I did this 4 times, totaling 20 rotations on the 4th print attempt. Print attempt #3 had clicking but did extrude after the purge line step was complete. I ran a couple attempts with tension a little tighter and looser around this point because I thought I was close and just need to dial it in but I saw no improvement. All other attempts in this step had clicking and no extrusion.
• Loosening the idler tension screws, undoing the above tightening, and then loosening in increments of 5 rotations. I experienced clicking and no extrusion as well. At the loosest, the screws were well backed up within the idler nut.

I'm at a loss as to what to do next. I have considered completely disassembling the nextruder but I would prefer not to unless it is necessary. Any help or advice is appreciated.

Pouštěl jsem tisk z PLA na dálku a nějak mi unikl drobný detail: na Prusa MINI nebyl nasazený tiskový sheet. Takže jsem elegantně poslal první vrstvu rovnou na holý heatbed. Při kontrole první vrstvy přes kameru jsem si všiml, že “něco je divně” — konkrétně že tam chybí celá ta pružná ocelová věc, na kterou se normálně tiskne. Tisk jsem hned zastavil, naštěstí zhruba po první/druhé vrstvě.

PLA jsem pak opatrně sundal ručně, ale bohužel šel místy dolů i ochranný lak z heatbedu. Na několika místech jsou teď obnažené topné cesty. Samotné cesty vypadají nepřerušené, nezvednuté a bez spálených míst, jen na jedné je okraj/růžek lehce mechanicky “žvejknutý”, odhadem tak do 5 % šířky cesty.

Po ruční intervenci jsem zkusil pustit ještě krátký PLA testovací tisk a všechno proběhlo normálně: bed topí, teplota drží, tisk se dokončil bez chyby.

Teď řeším, jestli obnažená místa jen znovu zaizolovat PCB lakem / UV solder maskou / něčím podobným, nebo jestli je kvůli dlouhodobé bezpečnosti rozumnější vyměnit celý heatbed. Funkčně to zatím vypadá OK, ale přece jen je to topné těleso a ne dekorativní destička na stresové testování lidské pozornosti.

Dost často tisknu na dálku a na kameru koukám spíš jen občas, takže mě hlavně zajímá, jestli byste takovému heatbedu ještě věřili při delších tiscích bez pravidelného dohledu, nebo jestli je to už kandidát na výměnu pro klid v duši.

I'm looking for some help/advice on calibrating my printer/profile for Siraya Tech's Rebound PEBA 85A (https://siraya.tech/pages/siraya-tech-rebound-peba-85a-user-guide).  This is my first time trying to print flexible filament, so I started by following the OrcaSlicer calibration guide (https://www.orcaslicer.com/wiki/calibration/calibration_guide.html). 

I started with the temperature tower and at first selected 255C; this print had issues with the top layer of each section (see photos in links below).

Next I did the max volumetric speed test, which had no notable issues; I selected 3 mm^3/s (sorry, no pictures of this print).

Here's where it got complicated.  Next was the pressure advance test where I struggled to find a good value.  I searched for advice on this test for flexible filaments, but struggled to find anything helpful/applicable.  I tried the "line pattern" and the "chevron pattern" and both either gave inconclusive results, or too poor quality to make a good judgement. 

Basically at this point I decided to just go for the part I wanted to print to see how bad it turns out.  It actually wasn't terrible, but as you can see from the photos, far from ideal.

So, I'm hoping to get some advice for how to proceed with tuning my filament profile and/or modifying my print settings or model. Thanks!  

Here's additional details to help:

• Your printer model.
  • Prusa Core One+ (self assembled base model kit with upgrades)
• Any changes from the original design / modifications.
  • I made the following modifications suggested in this post: https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/prusa-core-one-how-do-i-print-this-printing-help/core-one-and-soft-tpu/
    • https://www.printables.com/model/1263406-nextruder-filament-sensor-magnet-mod
    • https://www.printables.com/model/1072020-mk4s-bogie-idler-main-plate
  • Eventually I put the dry box above my Core One and directly fed the filament into the extruder w/o the PTFE tubing
• If possible, attach a .3mf file (in a .zip file)
  • PEBA_85A_3mf_calibration_files - 3 latest test prints I've printed
  • CoordinateSystemFrameTool - part I'm trying to print with PEBA
• if any steps have been done on your part to try and fix the situation.
  • Before I first printed with the PEBA, I dried the filament per mfg recommendations with the Sunlu filament dryer / dry box.  I dried it for 6-7 hours at 70C.  After I struggled with the pressure advance tests, I dried the filament again for 6-8 hours and redid the temperature tower; quality was pretty much the same as the first attempt.
    • https://store.sunlu.com/collections/sunlu-filament-dryer-s1/products/sp2-filamentdryer-split-type-filament-dryer-effortless-drying-combine-with-seamless-storage
  • When I started to run into issues with the pressure advance test, I cleaned the nozzle with the provided needle tool and a wire brush.
  • I tried printing at 250C, but saw no noticeable improvement
• photos or videos showing the problem you are having if you need help with it, we have a guide here.
  • Temperature Tower: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ufd7R5W4b2pXdgKN8
  • PA Chevron Test: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ViLVPdeRiyBDuD1B8
  • Test Print: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3PFEm332e6Ps9BwJA
  • Let me know if any of these links don't work.

PEBA in dry box, direct feed to extruder:

I've had my Core One kit built for a month now and I've been double checking everything because of sporadic major layer shifts and more recently the fan shroud falling off midprint after the screws vibrated themselves loose.

I removed the Nextruder to ensure the belts were attached evenly with the required 4-5 teeth and made sure the gantry was square and the tension within the suggested range using the onboard strobe method. During all this I noticed that there seemed to be significantly more fine black belt "dust" in the back right hand corner; after looking around it seems that the belt is sitting noticeably off center on the toothed motor pulley. I've taken a couple of pictures but without further dismantling it's hard to capture it dead on, I think the amount of visible toothed pulley is clear though.

I looked back over the kit assembly and there was no manual adjustment here, I just used the provided printed tool to act as a spacer while tightening the two grub screws onto the motor shaft so I'm not sure what could have caused this and how I go about correcting it.

I have been running my printer for quite a while without errors. I had a failed print the other night and since then my printer was unable to start a new one. It would fail during the home check. I tried to run the calibration but the X-Axis fails instantly when traversing to the left. (after hitting the far left stop it immediately indicates a failed test with an "X-Axis Length Error"). 

When I manually move the extruder left to right it feels like there might be a little "chop" when it gets close to the far left stop. 

Any advice? or would I be better off fully disassembling the whole thing and re-assembling?

I tried raising the temps from 250 to 255 on the hardend nozzle, but am not seeing much difference regarding the PETG grid problem. Does anyone know what causes this (see picture)? Isnt it weird some lines look perfect and others fail?

AI says my PLA clogging problem might be caused by too high chamber temps (around 40c when printing, the air filter that came with ultimate seems to cause higher chamber temps, vents are open!), what can I do to fix this?

By the way I am drying the filament in a dryer prior to printing.


https://freeimage.host/i/CHiqRnV

i am trying to print the original prusa glow in the dark petg filament. i use a 0,6mm hardend nozzle and the petg heatbed, but the print alway comes lose :/ i tried a gluestick and raised the heat of the heatbed, but still have issues.

does anyone has experience how to print the material?

thank you in advance

Marco

Am looking for a 3D printer, prusa is for me still the best choice.
It's open source. Good repairable and it works with operating system. 

But my biggest concern is noise while it's printing. Am a bit sensitive for sound.
I tried to find YT video's with sound. Found a few but not really always helpfull.
Still not decided if i want a MK4S that's light 7KG.
Or a Core one+ that's enclosed but pretty heavy with 23KG The say the one+ must be more quite.

So my question to others that use the printer.
How much noise are the making. and let's only compare the MK4S with the Core one+
I wish i could hear them running in Reallife. But that's not possible before i buy one. 😀 

If some people have good sound examples. Am always interested.