Hello World
Hey guys. I am rather new to the home 3d printing army. I have done some work in the past with FDM printing at work and in school but that was 8-10 years ago. Most of my current experience is with SLA. I just finished building the MK3S kit. Can you guys give some feedback on my first prints? These were printed straight from the included presliced gcode on the SD.
Prusa Logo and Treefrog 150.
Not exactly happy with the quality of the top of the legs and feet of treefrog, but my opinion may be skewed after working with SLA mostly.
No post processing has been completed. Most of the models i am wanting to do will end up with filling, sanding, prime/paint. But as they say garbage in garbage out.
Re: Hello World
Hello Carl,
Your first layer is way too high, you need to lower the nozzle.
Beside of that it doesn't look bad. All the curves are looking good (for 0.15), welcome to FDM 🙂
Often linked posts:
Going small with MMU2
Real Multi Material
My prints on Instagram
Re: Hello World
Layer 1 should produce filament that welds together, producing a uniform 'sheet' of material. A good test/adjust piece is a 50 or 100 mm square that allows you time to adjust Z- while it is printing.
Re: Hello World
Thanks for the input.
I dropped the Z down a bit more.
New raft after dropping Z.
Looks like i have some layer shifting? Haven't checked the model yet to see if this was caused by the slicing process. Just got a good look at it.
And what is this? Only 3 of the 5 petals came out this way at the same height...
Re: Hello World
That isn't layer shifting. There is an issue when printing that when one area of a part ends, other areas appear to get thicker. Where the pistils end you are seeing this change in the petal perimeters.
Sometimes it is the filament, sometimes it is something else. Low belt tension is one thing that I suspect is causing it (movements are longer when the low part is completed). But I honestly can't explain it in all circumstances. Others have tried, to figure it out, but I haven't seen a conclusive "Do this to fix it ."
A simple test of mechanical issues is to slow the print down: setting SPEED in the TUNE menu to 50% or even 35%. Just to check - then if it isn't speed related then start looking at other things.
Re: Hello World
the best prep for your bed is to wash it with warm water and dawn dish soap (in the UK use Fairy liquid) by using a wad of clean kitchen paper towel dampen with warm water and put a dollop of Dawn on the pad and scrub (i do it twice at 90 deg to each other holding the plate by the edge as it is a phonograph record rinse under running water and dry with clean paper towel keep touching only by the edge... I do this every other day of printing with both kinds of plate.
then set your live z with this method https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting-f62/life-adjust-z-my-way-t2981.html it is far better than the zig zag method in the firmware
Re: Hello World
Just when i think i have this guy in decent calibration... I figured i would be adjusting for a week or two after the newly assembled parts and belts start to settle. Just didn't figure it would be this touchy.
I have done a few benchmark tests including the "*MINI* All In One 3D printer test" on thingiverse. I wanted to do a quicker print to test out some car bodies so i grabbed a Tacoma model on thingiverse as well. I upped the print layer height to .2 mm.
I cant tell if these are slicing issues i' m having or printer issues. So i guess i need to run some more of the included benchmark pieces. What do you guys think about the circled areas?
Should i have to reset the live Z if i change the print layer heights? I'm still trying to figure out what some of the typical issues look like. Do i have some over extrusion happening here when i bump the layer from .1-.15 to .2?
I am using the built in Slic3r settings for the Prusa filament.
RE: Hello World
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