Bad print  

Re: Bad print

the first layer of the black batarang seems to be too low live Z height, because the filament is forming ripples and waves. (over extrusion can cause similar effects because you are trying to force too much plasitc into too little space

the top layers seem to be significantly under extruded...

are both plastic's PLA?
is the filament roll free running, without tangles?

is the bondtech idler tension good? if it's too tight, the filament can deform and jam leading to underextrusion

have you tried Jeff Jordan's 'Life Adjust Z my way' https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting-f62/life-adjust-z-my-way-t2981.html#p103544

try removing your filament,
make sure the bondtech idler door is free to swing on the bearing screw at the top, if it's tight, then you may have difficulty getting a good adjustment on the idler door spring tension.

then adjust your bondtech idler door screws until they are just touching the springs, with no filament inserted you should be able to feel the screw turning force increase as the screw touches the spring

re insert your filament and try jeff jordan's version6.1 files for first layer live z adjustment.

get your first layer sorted, then try your batarang again,

regards Joan

Re: Bad print

Yes both plastics are PLA and the roll is tangle free.

I did just clear a clog of glow in the dark. it didnt seem to be 'clogged' so much as simply really stuck so it couldnt be pushed down by the extruder motor for some reason. I went up from the nozzle (after removing the nozzle of course) with a 1.5mm alan wrench which took a lot of force to push it up but it moved and i removed it and then loaded black PLA used in this print. I extruded some manually and ran the load function twice on it just to make sure it moves well.

i ran the 1st layer calibration but maybe i messed something up I will re-do it, probably should do the whole self-test again, i suppose.

The problem seems to be in the extruder motor where the idler tensioner is located. The gear seems to slip. I tightened the part on the rod from the motor again with no luck. The one on the door, which I now realize is tentioned by the two screws on the opposite side seems to be ok and it moves freely as far as I can tell.

I will check out that form post you linked to as well.

Thank you for this information. I will be trying this tonight. I appreciate it.

Re: Bad print

So I loaded a different filament, one i have had good luck with in the past week and was able to get it to load and extrude. There seems to still be a clog because i can put the acupuncture needle in and when retracted the filament flows. it also clicks every ~5mm when moving the extruder axis manually.

I think I may need to do further cleaning of the nozzle or further up from the nozzle ? with the nozzle off i put an alan wrench up the heat block and pushed the stuck filament out the top. Could there still be an issue with the nozzle? Should I give it an acetone bath ? (just watched a video and that's what they did)

I can take pictures and post them tomorrow evening if that'll help(which i assume it would I just didnt do it while working on it tonight).

Thank you

Re: Bad print

Read up on doing cold pulls. It's simple to do and can remove a lot of junk. I've had good luck using the eSun cleaning filament.

Re: Bad print

Thank you for that suggestion. I bought some cleaning filament and it'll be here on Sunday! 😀 along with some other stuff like nozzles and such. Tomorrow I am going to take the nozzle off and put it in acetone in a mason jar for a day.

I did a cold pull on the gray prusa brand filament I got with my printer and there's some interesting features.

The pictures are of 2 different cold pulls. I did one and then tried a print, the first layer does pretty well, once it speeds up and does the second layer there's almost no extrusion at all.