Hardened Steel nozzle replacement
Hi all,
I'm doing just fine with the brass nozzle included in my MK2S kit, but I recently ordered carbon fiber PLA, which recommended using a hardened steel nozzle instead of brass. Apparently it is stronger and can handle the particulates in the carbon fiber PLA without degrading as quickly.
So, I ordered a hardened steel nozzle and it arrived today. My question is, is there any advantage to the brass over the hardened steel nozzle? Can I just leave the steel nozzle in once I install it, or does the brass nozzle perform better in some instances?
Re: Hardened Steel nozzle replacement
..., or does the brass nozzle perform better in some instances?
yes, brass is a much better thermal conductor than steel.
you might need to tune the temperature a little bit up with a steel nozzle, and of course you need to do a pid tuning... and somewhere I've read about an increase in clogging problems.
most likely that you have to slow down the printing speed with the steel nozzle, in comparision with a brass nozzle.
before installing the new steel nozzle, have a look at this video from thomas sanladerer.
and this one is quite informativ as well.
dem inscheniör is' nix zu schwör...
Re: Hardened Steel nozzle replacement
Thanks for the video link! Thomas Sanladerer said in that video that you shouldn't need to switch between steel and brass much, since the hardened steel still conducts heat decently well. I think I'll leave it in, and if my regular PLA print quality diminishes I'll switch it back out for those.
Re: Hardened Steel nozzle replacement
There are a a few other options. Some folks sell brass nozzles with coatings. They are supposed to have the thermal properties of brass, but the added harder outer layer. People don't seem to like them, as they seem to not harden where you really need it - inside the orifice of the nozzle.
Then there is the Olsson Ruby nozzle, which is harder than any hardened steal, and has the thermal properties of brass, and a price tag that only makes it make sense if you intend to use a lot of abrasive filament. I have one, and like it, but it is probably overkill. I like not worrying about the filament (I have been doing some glow and CF lately). It has been very robust, and has never clogged.
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Re: Hardened Steel nozzle replacement
you might need to tune the temperature a little bit up with a steel nozzle, and of course you need to do a pid tuning...
Since both the heating element and sensor connect to the heating block, not the nozzle, I dont really see why PID tuning is useful. The PID loop and sensor attempt to maintain a set temperature to the block, and the assumption is the nozzle will get to the same temperature. In theory, It might take a tiny bit little longer to reach that if the nozzle has poor heat conductivity, but you cant solve that with PID tuning.
Re: Hardened Steel nozzle replacement
... In theory, It might take a tiny bit little longer to reach that if the nozzle has poor heat conductivity, but you cant solve that with PID tuning.
I don't agree, because you can solve it with the PID tuning. but not with the PID tuning at is implemented through the calibration menu. I recommend the procedure described here, which is more meticulous.
you even should do this when you put on a blue silicone sock...
the pid tuning "tests" the thermal behaviour of the whole hotend/coldend/nozzle system. even if you change your coldend fan (the one at the left side of the extruder), you'll notice that it has a positive effect.
dem inscheniör is' nix zu schwör...
Re: Hardened Steel nozzle replacement
A silicone sock will most definitely change the the heating/cooling characteristics of the block (thats why you install it!) and you should for sure do a PID calibration after installing a sock. A different fan might make a difference too, by pulling out more heat from the hot end to the cold end.
A different material nozzle however, I just dont see how it will affect the block, other than by the amount of heat radiating via nozzle to the air. If you compare the surface area exposed to the air of the heatblock with that of the nozzle, already it should be clear it cant make much of a difference. But whatever difference there is between various nozzle materials in heat radiation is not caused by different thermal conductivity, but different material density. And that difference is negligible between steel and brass.
It wont hurt, but its completely unnecessary to do a PID calibration for this.
Re: Hardened Steel nozzle replacement
you can also use copper nozzles for best heat transfer (and harder then brass) , if thats your thing .
i am replacing my heater block to copper also (to print stuff at higher temps)