Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)  

Re: Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)

Just another thing I was thinking about... the presets for the Prusa 1.75mm PLA in the slicer that you get when you install the drivers etc is set to 210 degrees C at the extruder? This seems very high and after lowering it to around 185 degrees I'm getting alot better prints. Just thinking about new guy/girls who just use the presets to start printing and ending up with messy prints? Just an idea to make it even more easy to get started?

Re: Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)

Just another thing I was thinking about... the presets for the Prusa 1.75mm PLA in the slicer that you get when you install the drivers etc is set to 210 degrees C at the extruder? This seems very high and after lowering it to around 185 degrees I'm getting alot better prints. Just thinking about new guy/girls who just use the presets to start printing and ending up with messy prints? Just an idea to make it even more easy to get started?
Just FYI, this thing was printed with default settings (210/55, 0.2mm NORMAL). Do you still think its too much? 😉

Re: Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)

Just another thing I was thinking about... the presets for the Prusa 1.75mm PLA in the slicer that you get when you install the drivers etc is set to 210 degrees C at the extruder? This seems very high and after lowering it to around 185 degrees I'm getting alot better prints. Just thinking about new guy/girls who just use the presets to start printing and ending up with messy prints? Just an idea to make it even more easy to get started?
I work for a company that compounds pla, not for the 3d market. The Temps for the pla will vary with the base stock and with the filler materials that are added to the base stock. A quick look at the Natureworks site will give you some idea of the range of temps. There is a wide range. We run our production extruders, which are screw type, depending on the compound anywhere from 175 to 230 c.

NatureWorks makes a base stock # 3d580 that they call " high heat grade". That they recommend a print temp from 190 to 230.

Bottom line unless you know the what the compound is the 210 is just a starting point.

Re: Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)

Just another thing I was thinking about... the presets for the Prusa 1.75mm PLA in the slicer that you get when you install the drivers etc is set to 210 degrees C at the extruder? This seems very high and after lowering it to around 185 degrees I'm getting alot better prints. Just thinking about new guy/girls who just use the presets to start printing and ending up with messy prints? Just an idea to make it even more easy to get started?
From my experience people put really weird PLA materials in the the extruder and 210'C assures they will all print. It is as simple as that. If 185 works for your material, feel free to make custom settings 🙂
I would love if people could use just one brand and I could optimise the hell out of it.

Re: Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)

I'm aware that it's a starting point, and that 210 is printable with some other adjustments and on some printers, but I just think 190 would be a more reasonable starting point for someone who dont know how to fiddle with extrusion temperatures. Just trying to give some input here.

The preset says "Prusa PLA" which many people will get as their first PLA with the printer. Maybe rename it to "General PLA" instead then and keep it safe with 210 🙂

The Blue roll of your PLA that I got with the printer printed awful at 210/55 but beautiful at 185 🙂

We're splitting hair here, just minor thoughts and suggestions!
Printing batman now! 🙂

http://3dprint.oneaday.se/stream_simple.html

Re: Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)

Just another thing I was thinking about... the presets for the Prusa 1.75mm PLA in the slicer that you get when you install the drivers etc is set to 210 degrees C at the extruder? This seems very high and after lowering it to around 185 degrees I'm getting alot better prints. Just thinking about new guy/girls who just use the presets to start printing and ending up with messy prints? Just an idea to make it even more easy to get started?
Just FYI, this thing was printed with default settings (210/55, 0.2mm NORMAL). Do you still think its too much? 😉

With the Prusa PLA?

Looks great!

Re: Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)

Just another thing I was thinking about... the presets for the Prusa 1.75mm PLA in the slicer that you get when you install the drivers etc is set to 210 degrees C at the extruder? This seems very high and after lowering it to around 185 degrees I'm getting alot better prints. Just thinking about new guy/girls who just use the presets to start printing and ending up with messy prints? Just an idea to make it even more easy to get started?
Just FYI, this thing was printed with default settings (210/55, 0.2mm NORMAL). Do you still think its too much? 😉

With the Prusa PLA?

Looks great!

Ive personally tried most every PLA brand that Amazon offers, ( ESUN, Hatchbox, Sainsmart, Meltink etc) probably more than 15 brands total, plus Prusa's own pla in several diffrent colors. I have never had an issue printing at 200-210. Every PLA print comes out great.

Re: Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)

Just FYI, this thing was printed with default settings (210/55, 0.2mm NORMAL). Do you still think its too much? 😉

With the Prusa PLA?

Looks great!

Ive personally tried most every PLA brand that Amazon offers, ( ESUN, Hatchbox, Sainsmart, Meltink etc) probably more than 15 brands total, plus Prusa's own pla in several diffrent colors. I have never had an issue printing at 200-210. Every PLA print comes out great.

I probably have another problem then 🙂

Re: Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)

HOW critical is the assembly of the Y axis bed? After trying to adjust it to get the probe aligned with the circles I think it's a bit twisted. If I measure diagonal from feet to feet it'd correct. So it's square but if I look at the feet they are not 100% flat to the ground. 2 of them are standing on their "heels".

Thinking about deassemble the printer and reassemble the Y axis bed, or is that overkill?

Re: Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)

Hi Patrick,

in my opinion taking some time to make sure the axes are perfectly square is not overkill, it's investment on time that will prove ROI 🙂

I spend 12 hours to build the printer, and maybe 8 additional hours to fine tune the axis alignment, with iterative corrections.

But since then, apart when my GT2 pulley get lose, I never had any calibration nor first layer issue.

Re: Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)

Hi Patrick,

in my opinion taking some time to make sure the axes are perfectly square is not overkill, it's investment on time that will prove ROI 🙂

I spend 12 hours to build the printer, and maybe 8 additional hours to fine tune the axis alignment, with iterative corrections.

But since then, apart when my GT2 pulley get lose, I never had any calibration nor first layer issue.

OK I think I'll do that then...
To adjust the Y axis is it the double nuts and the single nut on the both sides of the metal frame that needs to be adjusted right? Adjusting them slides the hole bed inside the frame and will affect the Y alignment of the probe right?

Best Regards patrik

Re: Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)

Patrik

No need to disassemble the Y frame.

1. using the nuts on the 12mm threaded rod (which you mention), adjust the left side to ensure the probe is in the centre of the dotted circle.
2. Adjust the nuts on the right side to ensure that the distance from the corner post to the Z frame is the same as the left side.
3, When tightening the same nuts, ensure that the threaded rods are fully home in the slots of the Z frame.
4. Correct the twisted Y frame - put a small object under one of the feet which is on the table and push down on the two high corners.
5. Recheck and adjust further if any twisting in the Y frame is present.

That should sort out your build, next thing to do is to align the Z axis (move up to top stops), factory reset the printer and re-calibrate the probe.

Peter

Re: Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)

I'm having a learning curve issue here. I'm not 100% sure if I have the proper firmware installed. Could someone post what I should see on my lcd screen under support I believe it's called? And when I run the calibrate Z under settings it moves to the closest circle to 0,0 on the heated table only and after the probe senses the table it moves, 150mm in the z axis? Is this right? Another question is when I move manually the x, & y it moves 1mm increments that appears correct, but z move 1 cm increments instead of 1mm this seems wrong to me? Right now I'm scared or running the calibration routine from the SD card because I have already crashed once and I don't like crashing. 👿
I'm new to this please help.

Re: Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)

Hi Jeff.

For the last official firmware, you should see on the first line in the support section: "Firmware - 3.0.3", and below:

1_75mm_MK2
RAMBo13a
E3Dv6full
------------------------------
Date:
Jun 10 2016

Regarding the Z move (done from the LCD, Support-> Move Axis->Move Z) it should be 1 mm increment as well. Are you sure your move are per 1 cm steps ? The number seen on the LCD is using mm units.

For the calibration, as soon as the circles are aligned, and the PINDA probe at the right height (mine is 1 mm higher than the nozzle bottom) there should be ok. Does the manual Calibrate Z from the LCD working properly ? What preprint gcode are you using in the slicer ?

Re: Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)

Christophe

I think Jeff has the wrong firmware loaded; the number of steps for the Z axis is a factor of 10 times different; Mk1 firmware would move the Z axis 10mm for a 1mm move.

Peter

Re: Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)

Hi Peter,

That's a clever deduction. Then the very first step is to double-check the firmware version indicated in the support section of the LCD panel, as I stated up there.

Re: Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)

please update 😀

Re: Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)

The "assembly instructions" link is wrong on the main post, you guys might want to fix that.

Re: Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)

Is it possible to get a move the left or right screw by X amount of turns M10 instead of the XY axis severely skewed but will compensate for it type of message .. Something like skewed by Xmm, at suggest the left or right M10 rod depending in the Y distance ... Just another way to get the geeks like me happy and have the fuzzy feeling of having it right...

Re: Everything you need to know about MK2! (NEW Drivers & FW June 7th)

... Just another way to get the geeks like me happy and have the fuzzy feeling of having it right...

+1

Mine is "slightly skewed" but I don't have any way that I know of for telling me which way it is skewed and by how much. I'd love to have it dead on.