RE: i3 Mk2S Extruder gear/motor clicking
Looking at that last image, you have something else going on than a simple filament issue.
The extruder is stopping at about the same place every time, it could be a heat problem in the electronics (motor drivers or power supply getting too hot). Have you tried using a fan blowing across the printer to cool the electronics? Checking power supply voltages while printing would be helpful, too.
RE: i3 Mk2S Extruder gear/motor clicking
Hi Guys,
So switched out the nozzle to the 0.4mm one that came with the printer.
Slic3r set to basic settings for that nozzle on normal Prusa 1.75mm PLA.
Perfect print...
Less detail than i'd like but hey, its a regiment tray. (see pic included)
I'm in the middle of doing more of those, to see if i still get the issue or not.
But it would boggle my mind how i would suddenly not be able to print with my smaller nozzle anymore :s
Mad
RE: i3 Mk2S Extruder gear/motor clicking
Right :s Terrible news
Woke up today only to find that the print he was making just suddenly stopped having layers.
The gear had ground up the wire to almost half way down.
Difference with this one was that i had set it to ultradetail to test it out. Trying one with normal settings now like the one before.
Also loosened up the tension on the guide wheel a bit more but this is getting ridiculous :s
Mad
RE: i3 Mk2S Extruder gear/motor clicking
Going to try buying a new heatbreak and fans and what not.
I checked the power supply and board compartments again, they seem fine temperature wise.
My new i3 is underway but i'd hate for my older model to not function even on stock components :s
So any further tips would be welcome.
Mad
RE: i3 Mk2S Extruder gear/motor clicking
Hey guys,
So the new 1.75mm heatbreak arrived and installed it. It was indeed a lot smaller than the stock prusa one. i have been running it for around 8-12 hours now with increasingly more detail settings and so far, all printed perfectly. I hope to god this is the fix i needed and would like to thank everyone who came to my aid 🙂 (i also feel kind of dumb with how much money ive wasted on replacing parts and getting a fillament dryer, but hey, progres!!)
You guys rock!
Kind regards,
Mad
RE: i3 Mk2S Extruder gear/motor clicking
Well, the issue has re-emerged on a more detailed setting...
Think ill just keep that printer as a 'big model' medium setting printer.
Maybe figure it out once i switch jobs to a printing company.
Thanks though, guys 🙂
Mad
RE: i3 Mk2S Extruder gear/motor clicking
Hey guys,
Sorry to necro this post, but i might have an interesting update.
Since my last post:
* i had bought a new MK3S and was able to sell my older model to a friend, who absolutely had to have it ( i did inform him of my issues so that everything was as fair as possible, even though i rebuilt it into the stock printer, e.g. stock nozzle etc. and had minimal issues since then.)
* My friend kept me up to date on his printing and tinkering but noted that he has had 0% of my issues with his prints. No clogs, no jams, nothing. I wrote it off as him being a lucky son of a gun and to the fact that he used the stock 0.4mm nozzle instead of my 0.25mm.
* My current MK3S had been printing fine the whole time i had it until very recently. When the 'exact same issues' started to show up, like a week or two ago.
* Baffled, as i hadnt been printing with it nearly as much as i had with my older model (it had been left alone all of last summer for example and only used during winter, see where i'm going with this?), i hit the forums again, hoping that in the year that passed, new info or developments from Prusa would help me out. Cause again, the entire printer was cleaned, put together again, and basically brand spanking new (i splurged and bought it fully assembled and tested).
* One particular post from a user on reddit hit me like a ton of bricks. He mentioned that a cold pull to clean your extruder would usually help out, but also mentioned what the different shaped tips of your fillament meant when you got your resulted pull done at around a 100°C cooldown.
* Turns out, as we all know , a nice clean cone shaped tip with an extended point (from the 0.25mm end etc) is a perfect result. BUT, if you ever got a blurbed stump of a mess, it means that you didnt even pull out the material from your nozzle head and were likely dealing with a heatpocket in the extruder itself.
* I retraced my steps and went over all the factors:
- The issues mostly occur (if they do at all) while doing large layers like first layers, solid infills and internal infils, never with just walls and single lines.
- The close the extruder was to the heated bed, the higher the chances of a clogged nozzle.
- The outside temperature has risen since winter, which means our rooms are now warmer. (Its still an average temperature for us, but still, warmer.)
- There are several pieces of hardware in that rather small room, like a big tower PC and a Server.
- The room is usually closed when no one is there.
- My friends place is rather chilly as it is and the printer sits in a corner of a large room on the side of the house that does not get any direct sunlight.
Adding all of this up, i figured i'd just try it and see if heat build up was the problem.
I basically set the AC in that room to full blast to an almost uncomfortable chill.
Currently, i have been printing for 3 days without a single issue. No more clicking sounds during that first line the MK3S does to clean the nozzle or during layer changes. Smoother first layers for some reason ( this really baffled me), the results look cleaner, though it might be because the room temp is just chilly now and helps with cooling the first layer?
I still feel like this is a long shot, but if this was my issue all along, for the past two printers, i feel rather stupid.
Naturally, keeping that room on full blast chilly is 'not' an option in the long run.
Though i fear that directing an extra fan onto my printer is also a bad idea, as it can ruin prints, i believe?
Or just aimed at the electronics as Tim suggested earlier?
Would you guys have any suggestions?
Or do i need to put on my thinking cap and design some sort of climate controlled printing box in which my printer can chug away? :p
Doesn't seem like a cost effective solution either i'm afraid :p
I will keep you all posted!
- Mad
RE: i3 Mk2S Extruder gear/motor clicking
Wellp,
Sorry to say, no dice. Same issues yet again.
I recently found a post on here and a vid from 3D printing Nerd.
Saying that the heatbreak for the MK3S is prone to heat build up and jamming.
They said the solution was to get a normal e3d one for teh V6.
Ordered it and ill keep you good people posted.
- Mad