Hotend clogged - which e3d-v6 hotend to buy?
Hi Girls and Guys,
Hope someone can help me. My hotend is clogged and although it does not seem to be bad, it is nearly impossible to make it clean again. I have heated it to the max to remove as much PLA as possible, but still this is the result. Any tips perhaps?
Otherwise I want to buy a new hotend, but which one to buy?
I have a nov 2016 i3-Mk2. Can I replace it with a 12V bowden e3-V6 kit, like this one? https://www.123-3d.nl/E3D-v6-hotend-complete-kit-1-75-mm-thermistor-cartridge-bowden-origineel-i2068-t13150.html
Hope that some one can help me, right now my daughter's school project is in serious jeapardy 😳
Re: Hotend clogged - which e3d-v6 hotend to buy?
what's wrong with that hot end?
it's a bit messy, but should be ok...
heat up, wire brush. maybe put a new ptfe tube inside
regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
Re: Hotend clogged - which e3d-v6 hotend to buy?
Thank you for your quick reply.
Ok, I thought I cooked it, because it could not print anymore and I could not get it cleaner while it was still assembled. And having no idea what seems messy and what is unrepairable.
I just cleaned it while disassembled and heated up. It is a lot better now, so I will try it again.
O, and why change the ptfe tube? It looks ok, but will it go rough on the inside or something like that?
But, regardless if that it will work again, I would still like to have a spare hotend, so which one to buy?
Re: Hotend clogged - which e3d-v6 hotend to buy?
Direct drive.
But the problem is that the thermistor cable will have a plug and socket about 10cm from the thermistor. Ideally you will need to solder the connections.
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: Hotend clogged - which e3d-v6 hotend to buy?
But to answer your question, yes you can buy original E3D-v6 12V from any source like prusa website, amazon, e3d shop or any trusty reseller. PR is doing nothing special to this hotend
Often linked posts:
Going small with MMU2
Real Multi Material
My prints on Instagram
Re: Hotend clogged - which e3d-v6 hotend to buy?
nothing different apart from a modified throat on the heat break for the mmuv1, later mk2's and mk3's!
regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
Re: Hotend clogged - which e3d-v6 hotend to buy?
Direct drive.
But the problem is that the thermistor cable will have a plug and socket about 10cm from the thermistor. Ideally you will need to solder the connections.
Peter
Why is that a problem? It seems like it would be easier to replace the thermistor cartridge if I didn't have to take apart the entire wiring bundle all the way back to the box with the circuit boards in it when it goes.
My hot end just broke when one of the wires to the heating element snapped so I can't get it hot again to take it apart, so I have to buy a new everything, and I don't understand why the prusa specific thermistors have such long cables instead of having a more easily accessible connector.
I'm assuming since the whole block is now fused and dead, I'm also going to need a new temperature sensor as well.
Re: Hotend clogged - which e3d-v6 hotend to buy?
Why is that a problem? It seems like it would be easier to replace the thermistor cartridge if I didn't have to take apart the entire wiring bundle all the way back to the box with the circuit boards in it when it goes.
My hot end just broke when one of the wires to the heating element snapped so I can't get it hot again to take it apart, so I have to buy a new everything, and I don't understand why the prusa specific thermistors have such long cables instead of having a more easily accessible connector.
I'm assuming since the whole block is now fused and dead, I'm also going to need a new temperature sensor as well.
This is a known fault with the Mk2 and thermistor connectors. Because of the vibration, the connectors can work loose. PR worked around this by replacing the connector with long cables.
Having said that, I never had a problem with connectors; you just have to find somewhere to cable tie them that will not interfere with the print.
The Mk3 does not have anywhere you can sensibly locate a connector in the thermistor cable, so I had to remove the connector and solder the wiring.
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…