Disaster Again
I’ve been a 3D hobbyist for around 3 years. Prusa is the one brand that’s given me more grief than any other.
I had severe issues with my original Prusa mk2 which is built and worked well for a while until I had to recalibrate the machine and it decided to crash the pinda into the bed which led to bent rods, which I replaced then it happened again. Was told it was a pinda problem, so replaced pinda. Happened again funnily enough in exactly the same place on the right/middle right/rear.
after being told this wasn’t a software or pinda issue I took the step to Haribo the mk2. It was set up with absolutely NO misalignment of anything. It was measured and measured again. First calibration test constantly failed to find calibration point 1 (why I don’t know as I tested the pinda and I know the pinda detects metal). I took the step to run the first layer calibration print and had to change my live z and got to a point where prints were coming out brilliantly (all square and no issues). Following a very successful 9.5 hour print, I go to print again and low and behold during the pre print 9 point calibration the nozzle/pinda crashed into the bed at point 4 just like it did on the original build.
if anyone can suggest what’s going on or how to fix it I’d appreciate it otherwise I will have once again own a very expensive brick. I own three other printers that half the price, each are more reliable than this. I really considered another prusa at one point but this has set me against the brand. If my firmware/software is broken I would accept that but I won’t accept that my rods are misaligned, there’s skew in the frame or even that the probe is too high etc.
sorry for the long (first post)
RE: Disaster Again
Lack of information is always a great place to start:
What is the model of printer you are using? Is it a kit or a prebuilt? Firmware version installed? Have you completed a full wizard (if kit) and recent selftest or XYZ calibration? Post a photo of the issue, words are insufficient to describe what really is happening unless it is something ultimately simple like "fuse blows when powering on" ... even then that usually isn't enough description. For example: you say " nozzle/pinda crashed into the bed " -- well which was it? The nozzle or the PINDA? Or, " same place on the right/middle right/rear ", again, which was it? Right, Middle, or Rear? Exactly the same three places?
I can explain simply: it is a user error, either in operation or in assembly. But like the question posted, the words are probably not helpful.
As for bent rods? Sometimes in frustration I want to bend rods, but I can assure you my MK3 printer does not have the torque to bend rods in any harmful way.
So we are back to the basics: Start with a full factory reset, select the full data clear option to remove any lingering EEPROM data; run the full setup wizard, and every adjustment and calibration it prompts you to do. Read the assembly guide for what to expect and follow it. Short cuts are not your friend, nor are they helpful. Once you get past a successful wizard, and run a layer 1 calibration, then print a real layer 1 test target to fine tune the Live-Z. Once the printer is ready, then print a few models from the SD card sample gcodes to validate the printer is working normally. After that, then slice the sample models using defaults (don't mess with slicer settings) to ensure the software and SD writing is working as expected. The sliced models should match the included gcode versions.
Once you've gotten to this point, then start playing. But understand some things you do can alter EEPROM data and you'll end up back at square one.