ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)  

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Lol

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

I'm printing my parts in PETG and need to know what parts have changed from the stock MK2. From what I've read it seem they changed: extruder body, x-carriage, and the Y-distance.

What about the Rambo changed (Door and Base) as I'm not sure what to print on this one

Are there any other parts I'm missing?

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

@jeff.j2: Rambo door didn't change 🙂

Good day.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

the upgrade kit just came today, was thinking that I should print all of the mk2s parts and convert fully to mk2s instead of partial. I know this has been questioned before, any recommended print parameters?

mine currently is:
- perimeters 3
- top/bottom 3
- infill type cubic
- infill 20%

Was thinking of turning on brim to improve adhesion so the parts come out perfect

The supplied filament is 100g of ABS-T. I never handled such thing

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Ok, I'm incompetant - I ruined four of the linear bearings. Where can I get some high quality replacements? I'm not sure how to evaluate available units.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Where can I get some high quality replacements? I'm not sure how to evaluate available units.

For the most part, I think it's just pot luck. Yes, you can pay a lot of money and get them from a known manufacturer (eg Misumi), but I am not convinced that is good value for money.

Peter

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Just upgraded mine to mk2s, gotta say that the upgrade made an impact to the resonance of the frames

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

I am in the process of installing the MK2S upgrade. As instructed, I printed the gcode parts. I could not get the ABS that Prusa shipped with the kit to stick to the bed. I had a spool of ABS (Manufacturer Unknown) and use it to print the parts. During assembly I had real problems with the Extruder part I printed. All of the holes were too small. I had to really work to get the square nuts into the hole slots. The PINDA would not fit in the hole. With reluctance, I drilled out the mounting hole so I could get it in. I could not tell but I hope I did not drill it so much that it was past the wall thickness of the hole. Apparently the ABS I have has greater shrinkage than the Prusa ABS. ❓

I did not have any PET Filament to print the PET gcode files and had no way of knowing what they were. While routing the cable I discovered it was asking for the cable holders. I was able to go the the MK2S parts list and figure out what they were. I have another printer ( a CR-10) and printed the cable holders using PLA. I am now ready to finish the assembly.

I wish Prusa would have included the ABS parts in the kit.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

So this mentions upgrading your smooth rods, but after searching the forums I can't find a recommendation for them, I already bought the U-Bolts separate since I already printed the printable parts, and I was buying a new bed anyways, but they don't have them on their store and I can't find a specific spec for them or a part #.

Does anyone have a link for what they got, and how are they working?

Much appreciated 😀

Gcode for upgrade parts - which nozzle diameter?

Hello!
Just got the upgrade kit. Some questions about printing parts:
1: If I use the gcode, which nozzle diameter is presumed?
2: If I choose the STL-files instead, which nozzle diameter, layer height, wall/bottom/top thickness, fill% etc. is recommended?
Thx in advance,
/RS

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

1. The gcode is for .4mm nozzle
2. .4mm Nozzle. The normal or fast preset using ABS material in Slic3r PE works fine or in the alternative: .2-.3 layer height, 2 perimeters, 3-4 top and bottom layers,30% cubic infill

These certainly are not the only answers possible, but they work perfectly on my units. You can certainly go more on anything, but I think you are simply adding weight at that point. PLA\PET\PETG is also known to work if ABS is impractical or not on hand.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Hello All 😉

Clarification question please on the material, filament, for printing the MK2 to MK2s upgrade.

I would like to use PETG for all the parts not just the RAMBO cover.

Has anyone already done this? How are the results? Any heat deformation after printing for a while?

Any and all input appreciated! 💡

cheers

mr

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

You should absolutly avoid using PETG for parts around the hotend and noozle. That concern 3 parts I think. 2 around the extruder + the fan duct.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Hello All 😉

Clarification question please on the material, filament, for printing the MK2 to MK2s upgrade.

I would like to use PETG for all the parts not just the RAMBO cover.

Has anyone already done this? How are the results? Any heat deformation after printing for a while?

Any and all input appreciated! 💡

cheers

mr

I tried it and the part that warped was the estruder cover. the body seemed to take the heat fine, but the extruder cover did not, I believe its because it is so close to the actual block.