ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)  

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

...Regarding the new Rambo base, with the extruder cable bundle coming out of the top vs out of the side: Is this an improvement with regards to cable longevity before they break due to repeated bending? ....
i think that what it's intended for.

I'm not sure about that.
I agree the new part on the extruder is intended to prevent cable breakage, but the official description for the Rambo changes sounds more like they are trying to address complaints about the difficulties assembling it.

I would need to see the printer in action with the new top-exit of the extruder cable bundle to be certain, but I think that the relocation actually tightens the radius of the bend in the cable bundle. I cannot 'simulate' it well enough in my mind to be certain, but I think it might make cable bending worse.

I'll leave the Rambo enclosure unchanged for now, but I will extend the extruder cable bundle length as long as possible (limited by the shortest cable in the bundle). I have already added a nail at the Rambo end, shrink-wrapped to the end of the 3mm filament, to stiffen the bundle at the entry point into the Rambo housing.

Looks to me like I can get started with the upgrade tomorrow, fixing the cable breakage issues. I'll probably leave the rest of the upgrade kit lying around (once it actually arrives) for spare parts if the bearings start causing trouble one day.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

to be frank about the old mk2 rambo enclosure, it took me almost 1 hour to fit the board to the case, then further wiring due to inaccessibility 😐

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Update 5: What to print before you disassemble the printer? See picture below
...

Update 5: There are questions regarding printed parts for MK2S upgrade, so let's clear this out 😉 To make your upgrade easier, we prepared G-code file including new X-carriage (holding Extruder), Extruder body and Y-motor-distance (optional). Other parts of the printer changed as well, but the changes aren't so important for you to print them as well.

Any idea how these rounded brim-like being created in slicer?

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

...Any idea how these rounded brim-like being created in slicer?

➡ don't know how these "mouse ears" are created in slicer. but when i have to add them to a part, i simply use my 3d design program of choice (designsparks mechanical). therefore i load the part (stl), convert it into a solid, add a circle (approx. 15mm radius) at the bottom surface of the desired edge and extrude the 270° section 0.4mm upwards. then i save the file as *.stl again.
this delivers an stl-file which contains the part with mouse-ears, so it could be sliced afterwards with any slicer of choice.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Any idea how these rounded brim-like being created in slicer?

Here is a good collection you can use. Just add the ones you want to the build plate and position where you want them.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1720658

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

@richard.I:
❓ does the parts (the mouse-ears and the designated print) really merge together when assembling them with a slicer at the build plate ?
if so: with which slicer ?

➡ i had the experience that it won't be treated as a single part by the slicer, so that the mouse-ears and the part still have their own perimeters (and a very tiny gap between each other).... and so there will always be a predetermined breaking point between the "lift-latch" and the part.... which in fact doesn't help to remove the well sticking part from the printing surface, as the mouse-ears are purposed to do.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

@richard.I:
❓ does the parts (the mouse-ears and the designated print) really merge together when assembling them with a slicer at the build plate ?
if so: with which slicer ?

➡ i had the experience that it won't be treated as a single part by the slicer, so that the mouse-ears and the part still have their own perimeters (and a very tiny gap between each other).... and so there will always be a predetermined breaking point between the "lift-latch" and the part.... which in fact doesn't help to remove the well sticking part from the printing surface, as the mouse-ears are purposed to do.

Simplify3D does merge parts together for this purpose as well as performing basic merging of parts to create new parts without having to revert to separate modeling software and hassling with editing/merging meshes.

Here is the S3D tutorial for doing this:

I do it frequently and as long as the models are touching they do merge when printed. I didn't think this was anything unique to S3D and I don't really use any other slicer anymore, but I just assumed models that touched would do the same in other slicers as well.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

@JeffJordan

As Paul said it does work in S3D and it also works in Slic3r.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

I have just finished upgrading my MK2 to MK2S using upgrade kit.

Now the good things:

1. Haribo 🙂
2. No more wobbly printbed! Bearing from my MK2 kit had a huge play. Bed was vibrating and it drives me the crazy. Now it;s very quiet.
3. I get much more that 100g of ABS filament with the upgrade kit. I would say it it more that 200g 🙂
4. I have not replaced Rambo cover to the new design with extruder cabel coming to the top. The new extruder cable support makes it job and the cables doesn not touch the bed anymore.

Unfortunately I had some problems:

1. Upgrade manual does not mention anything about mounting y-motor spacer which is included in gcode with upgraded extruder parts. I knew where it should goes even before I have noticed that upgrade manual is missing that but I think it would be better to include it.
2. I assabled extruder and during screwing it into to x-axis carriage I have noticed that 30mm screw does not grab the nut.

the green one

It turns out that I have to disassable the extruder becase the nut (red) is very loose in its hole, it have to much space so it could easily flip on its side.

After assebly (and for safty securing mentioned nut with a bold during assebly) and during mountin extruder assebly to the carriage the nut once again fliped. The third disassebly of the extruder. Now I have put a tiny drop a glue on this nut and luckly it vas fine this time.

That's strange becase I have used original gcode and supplied filament so the hole should be tight like in the previous extruder part from the MK2 kit.

3. I had to englare a bit the hole for the 3mm filament that supports the extruder cable. Sharping end of the filament was not enough.

All in all I am very satisfied with the upgrade. Problems I mentioned are not real problems 🙂 These are only my observations.

PRUSA team - good job 🙂

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

heatbed_cable_cover.stl it's print in black abs or pet? 😀

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Just upgraded from MK2 -> MK2S with the kit.
Had same problem with the M3 nut as grzegorz.k and used glue too. I see no other way as the nut is between two parts.
The M3 nut hole for the part fan is a little too big as well, but is accessible during assembly (no problem).

I would recommend printing and replacing the X axis motor and idler parts as well, as they has been upgraded with stiffer support for Z axis lead screws.

Upgrade instructions was easy to follow - thank you for a super kit.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Just upgraded from MK2 -> MK2S with the kit.
Had same problem with the M3 nut as grzegorz.k and used glue too. I see no other way as the nut is between two parts.
The M3 nut hole for the part fan is a little too big as well, but is accessible during assembly (no problem).

I would recommend printing and replacing the X axis motor and idler parts as well, as they has been upgraded with stiffer support for Z axis lead screws.

Upgrade instructions was easy to follow - thank you for a super kit.
I might be lucky with that nut for part fan 🙂

Did you replace those 2 part you mentioned?

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Hi man!
How have you obtain this finish ?

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Haha mine looks the same but only one half of this cable support. The other half looks ok.

It looks like melted 🙂

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

I think it's a features a build tak like: see here!

https://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/prusa3d/wT5PcVfqIHhW2RXI.huge

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

@grzegorz.k:

I might be lucky with that nut for part fan 🙂

Did you replace those 2 part you mentioned?

Yes I reprinted all extruder parts and X axis parts (models updated since my MK2 version).

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Can anyone point me in the direction to the warranty information about the MK2S kit? I'm about to pull the trigger on purchasing one, however I am hesitant if there is no warranty information explicitly spelled out. The only thing I see on the comparison between the kit and the pre-built is that the pre-built comes with complete warranty, while the kit comes with parts only warranty. However, there is no information on how long that warranty is?

I'm assuming it would be a 1-year warranty? However, I have seen forum post where customer service seems to be asking users to buy replacements parts even after one month. So it would be nice to see the duration of the warranty in writing...

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Hi, everyone

for a different source of the U-Bolts you might try these, just ordered them myself:

https://de.aliexpress.com/item/Horizon-Elephant-3pcs-U-bolts-for-holding-LM8UU-MK2S-Y-carriage-for-Reprap-Prusa-i3-3D/32809093456.html

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Does it need to be printed with support? The attached image shows the hole printing the inner circle first, in mid air.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

don't care ;)! Many parts have it. Just print!