ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)  

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Hi Sarf2k4,
try to clean your heatbed with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) and activate brim. ABS tends to warp and this should help your print to be successful 😉

Actually, forget IPA and use Acetone. works much better.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Right, Acetone is also suitable. For me IPA worked very well so far, both for ABS and PLA.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

I actually used IPA before the start of the print and brim are not activated during that print.

Acetone however, I kind of don't dare to keep a 1-2 liter of it in my house. To be honest, my place don't sell acetone in most hardware stores and not even limonene existed in my area here

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

How do women clean their nails over there???
At least in Portugal, women clean their nails with acetone to remove old nail polish. I buy small acetone bottles on the supermarket.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Nail polish removers are usually a mixture of different contents like Acetone, Ethyl- and Butylacetate, IPA, Glycol, etc. Some of them also contain oils or other care products.
I'd suggest using pure acetone instead of nail polish removers. 😉

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Regarding ABS warping, I'm a relative novice at this but once I figured things out I haven't have a problem. I use Windex brand glass cleaner to clean off the print bed. I've been printing with a number of different ABS filaments and I've found that with a bed temperature of 100-110, Elmer's brand glue stick (I use the purple ones because it's easier to tell if I've cleaned off the bed properly) and a fat enough bead on the first layer to get good squish, I get adhesion so good that I need to use a broad bladed chef's knife to get the parts off of the bed. My i3 Mk2 is in an enclosure that I built from 1X3 and 1/4" luan.

So far, I've had outstanding results with eSun's ABS+. I'm printing some relatively large and complicated parts and regular ABS was giving me issues with delamination and dimensional problems due to shrinkage or warping. eSun's regular ABS is okay, but their ABS+ works very well for me.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Anyone know the screw size used for the 2 screws in the new extruder body that hold the pinda probe?

Thanks!

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Anyone know the screw size used for the 2 screws in the new extruder body that hold the pinda probe?

Thanks!

For me M3 10 worked perfectly

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

I printed the new carriage, extruder body and rambo case.

extruder body and carriage are printed with brim enabled. With this this raised a question that I have, even with brim, the parts still got peeled off nevertheless. attaching picture of carriage printed earlier with minor peeling at non-critical point.

Also I got some yellowish mark after print, is this normal?

Also, I am wondering how can you guys print the parts without any warpings and not with brim?

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Anyone know the screw size used for the 2 screws in the new extruder body that hold the pinda probe?

Thanks!

As christophe.p suggested, use 2x M3x10 screws, but first add 2x M3nS square nuts into P.I.N.D.A. holder.
More info is in the MK2S manual:
http://manual.prusa3d.com/Guide/5.+Extruder+Assembly/295 (steps 4 and 20)

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Also, I am wondering how can you guys print the parts without any warpings and not with brim?

Well from my experience, printing with ABS is a bit trickier than for example from PLA and you need to pay more attention to it. So far I observed several factors, which might influence the warping:
1) How well is the heatbed cleaned (Let it cool down and clean it properly)
2) Adjustment of the Z axis (Needed to lower it a bit more)
3) Height of the structure (each layer shrinks, so more layers = more shrinkage, had warping with tall structures)
4) ABS-T seems more friendly, than normal ABS

At the end I ended up using brim just to avoid print failure. Now I'm learning a new method, where you are using brim just for corners.

Hopefully, others can add their observations, so the parts for MK2S are printed without failures 😉

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

I am unsure what is my nozzle's initial height is, I should be trying out using paper method.

I tried some other surface and other than ultem, I know for sure if it's the correct first layer thickness or not, but ultem is a bit hard to observe the first layer.

About the first layer, should I have perfectly same first layer as the one in slic3r?

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Of note, you could skip all the ABS related pain and use a material like Biofila plaTEC. http://www.two-bears.eu/index.php?k=44

(It's expensive, but just for the extruder parts it's not a big deal. Everything else can be printed in PLA really...)

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

By using 6 brim lines the extruder pieces printed without lifting in ABS for me. I did them at 101% and the parts came out great. I am going install the new parts soon.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

For those of us who have already upgraded the rods and bearings ... MISUMI ... will the 3x20x16 ubolts be available as a separate item and with reasonable shipping to the US? Several hours of Googling has not revealed a source in the US for them.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

I'll be printing the new parts in Colorfabb HT. It's more expensive, but I'll avoid ABS shrinkage problems and fumes.
Slic3r even has a profile for it 🙂
No ABS for me until my enclosure is done.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

I printed up the new parts in Push Plastic's carbon fiber infused ABS and I can't get the zipties for the X carriage bearings to pass through their conduits. Any suggestions? I'm printing the carriage in eSun's ABS+ to see if there is less friction but I still would like to use carbon reinforced filament for the structural parts.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

I Just wanna let u Know, don't print the new Extruder Body with PLA, it start to deform his self, and gonna be useless after 4-5 Prints.

Use Carbonfibre with 120c oder Spezial Pla.

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

it would be a Pleasure, if u make Downloadlink on: http://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/

Thanks!

Re: ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MK2S RELEASE (UPDATED)

Thank everyone for sharing the infos 🙂