RE: Z calibration failure
@randy-h
Hi, Randy
That's the firmware I have applied.
It seems a bit "glitchy". The Z calibration sometimes works, and sometimes doesn't, and sometimes I need to reboot and it works again.
While doing the bed levelling it often does points 1-3 fine then 4-5 fine but at 6 it sometimes comes back for a second look.
Then at 7 it is OK but at 8 it often comes back for a second look and seems to hesitate before deciding it was either OK or needs a Z cal. If it passes it goes to 9 and if it fails it messages out.
If it messages out that it needs a cal, I usually Power cycle and it usually comes back OK.
Could this be because the PINDA probe is too low? to get it all going I have a Z offset of 1mm (seems a bit high).
This only seems to be a thing since the firmware update and I wonder whether any quality refinements have tripped over my system; and it just needs a solid tweak.
RE: Z calibration failure
@greg-s23
Your Z offset is a bit high. Mine is about .6mm with the Pinda set to 1mm (zip tie method) off the bed (when the nozzle is touching the bed).
First set your Pinda to 1mm WITHOUT the steel sheet in place. Then home all axis (easiest to do with Octoprint), and observe how close the Pinda is to the calibration point. It needs to be at least 90% WITHIN the circle. If it is not you need to adjust your frame to get it as close as you can. (I had to do this to mine as the Pinda was not close enough to the calibration point)
There is a red light on the Pinda. When the Pinda does NOT detect metal under it the light will be ON. So when the printer is homed you should be able to put a finger on the bed and barely push down, and the light on the Pinda will turn on, when you release the bed the light should go off. Repeat this several times to confirm the sensitivity of the Pinda. You might want to try it at various point on your bed (with the steel sheet in place so you don't have to find the 9 calibration points) You could have a broken wire or loose connection on your Pinda cable
I am about to upgrade to a Bear frame which will get rid off all the stupid threaded steel rods and aluminum plate making the printer MUCH straighter and easier to adjust not to mention the rigidity compared to the flimsy stock frame. (and it looks SOOOO much better too!)