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Nizmox
(@nizmox)
Eminent Member
Z-band issue in one area of print

Hoping someone might be able to help me out with this print. I'm having an issue where I get a z-band that aligns exactly with a flat plane area on my print. Any idea what setting I might need to change to address this?

I have both the bondtech hotend and extruder upgrade.

Any help would be much appreciated!

Posted : 17/08/2021 10:43 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Member
Band

Is that band where the sides meet the solid bottom?

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog

Posted : 18/08/2021 2:40 am
Nizmox
(@nizmox)
Eminent Member
Topic starter answered:
Z-artefact

Yep at exactly that spot. My friend suggested I enable the option to print the perimeters first and increase perimeters to 3 so I'm trying that now. Will report back.

Posted : 18/08/2021 3:20 am
bobstro
(@bobstro)
Illustrious Member
Search for the term "buldge"
I believe you are referring to those variations in what would be vertical surfaces as they print. Do you get the same variations when printing a perfectly vertical surface like a cube? There is a common phenomenon that you'll encounter as vertical surfaces vary ever so slightly during a print. This was given the unfortunate name of "buldge" in earlier posts. Deviations in wall thickness can occur as layers transition:
  • Between solid infill and sparse infill.
  • Between sparse infill and gap fill
  • When the number of perimeters increases or decreases between layers.
Happily, the "buldge" misspelling in that earlier post has made the problem very easy to search for. It's not truly a bulge but can give that appearance in some circumstances. There are several threads you might want to look through:
Unfortunately, no single fix has been identified that will work in all cases, but a few things that help:
 
  • Be sure you're not just seeing the effect of minor warping/lifting/curling along edges or in corners. This can really throw troubleshooting off. Rotate the print and verify the problem occurs in the same place.
  • Slow down external perimeter speeds (and all speeds in general). If the nozzle is moving a bit too fast, you get slight under extrusion on some layers. These are apparent as adjacent layers print with slightly different extrusion rates. I use 25mm/s for external perimeters when appearance is important.
  • Calibrate your extrusion multiplier for each filament. Any slight over or under extrusion can produce very small but noticeable variations in layers with different features (e.g. infill, gap fill, top solid infill). The closer your slicer settings match your actual printer and filament, the more accurate the gcode will be.
  • Calibrate linear advance (LA) for each filament. LA adjusts the flow of filament to compensate for acceleration and deceleration. If it's not right, you may see artifacts even away from features such as bumps or hole on the same layer. In some cases, a hole on one wall causes imperfections on the far side of the print.
  • Add an external perimeter if vertical walls allow it. The thicker combined perimeter allows the filament flow to even out.
  • Tweak perimeter extrusion widths. The problem can appear when the slicer switches between gap fill, sparse infill, and solid or top infill. If you can find a multiple of perimeter widths that minimizes these transitions, it can work for a specific print.
  • If you are the part designer, make vertical free-standing walls thicker. IME, at 1.5mm thick, the problem is less noticeable. You can try for a multiple of extrusion widths, although be aware the PrusaSlicer does some internal calculations for overlap between extrusions that can throw you off.
  • Check cooling. Variations in fan speeds can cause changes in print appearance.
 
Unfortunately, with the current state of FFF consumer-grade 3D printing, we still have to do some hand-tuning for specific prints. I've gotten to the point that I can usually eliminate the effect to my satisfaction. Dig through those threads for examples. Contrary to some theories, this is not exclusively a PrusaSlicer thing.
 
In your specific example, slice the part and spend some time in preview mode checking to see if the defect aligns with any shifts in infill, solid layers, transition from perimeters to sparse infill or gap fill, etc. If you'd save your part & settings off in a 3MF project file, zip it up, and attach it to a reply here, we may have better suggestions.
 
The Prusa Benchy hull line notes might also be interesting.
 
Looking at your pictures, it appears (to me) that you might be able to tune this issue out a bit, but pictures under specific lighting conditions -- particularly from above -- will highlight surface inconsistencies. Sanding may be required if you need a truly consistent surface. You might want to follow the Cura slicer development. They've recently released an Alpha of their Arachne slicing engine that dynamically adjusts perimeters based on wall thickness. It's still early alpha, and not yet producing ideal results, but it's worth a look. There's a lot of cross-fertilization between slicers, so something similar may evolve for PrusaSlicer in the future.
My notes and disclaimers on 3D printing

and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan

Posted : 18/08/2021 4:17 am
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Member
RE: Follow the directions

@Bobstro is dead on.  This is a common problem caused by the change from a solid base to walls in PrusaSlive.  

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog

Posted : 18/08/2021 9:34 am
Nizmox
(@nizmox)
Eminent Member
Topic starter answered:
Th

@bobstro thankyou for your incredibly detailed post!

Can confirm that using 3 perimeters and external perimeters first did not help, and made a weird defect on the inside of the print.

I did calibrate my extrusion multiplier for this filament some time ago but I might give it another shot, i'll also try decrease the external wall print speed.

 

Posted : 18/08/2021 11:18 pm
bobstro
(@bobstro)
Illustrious Member
Quick and simple test by reducing speed
Posted by: @nizmox

[...]  i'll also try decrease the external wall print speed.

One of the quickest and simplest diagnostic tests is to simply dial the print speed back 50% using the front knob mid-print. If that improves your surfaces, you know you can make some simple slicer settings changes to improve print quality.

 

My notes and disclaimers on 3D printing

and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan

Posted : 19/08/2021 3:17 pm
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