Filament grinded in extruder and gets stuck with large model
Hey all!
Pretty new to 3D printing and I need some help.
I am trying to print a model from HeroForge, and I am having difficulty.
I am trying to print it at 177 mm high and ultra-details. I am using eSun white PLA (you can find it here, sorry for the Hebrew, please ask if you need translation)
I made a bunch of mistakes, but the print came closer to finishing every time (bad supports, bad temps, etc.)
In the was two weeks I got stuck because the extruder grinds the PLA and the plastic get's stuck. the print continues without any plastic extruded, and the print fails (3-4 times already X__X)
I am using the Prusa Slicer with the Ultradetail (0.05 mm) preset, with the following changes:
1. print temp 200-210 (tried a few times) to reduce stringing and blobing
2. retraction length of 4.2 mm (again to reduce stringing and blobing)
except for that I used the eSun preset in the slicer.
I tried to cold pull which did help, but the print still failed.
I tried to check if the idler tension needs adjusting and it's flush with the housing when no filament is in (like it should according to the instructions)
What else can I do?
Should I just try another filament?
Please tell me if you need me to add any more details.
thanks!
RE: Filament grinded in extruder and gets stuck with large model
Loosen the idler screw. If it grinds the filament it indicates that it's too tight. I found the Mini idler to be very sensitive to the filament chosen. I replaced it with the Bondtech extruder (actually, the Trianglelab clone), and never had any problems again.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
This is quite an ambitious print for a beginner...
Stringing and blobbing is almost always due to damp filament, especially at this time of year. Dry it.
Are you planning to paint this model? If so I suggest you try a different colour - white is always the trickiest 'colour' to print as it contains the most pigment - natural or transparent filament tends to be easiest.
Are you using the default 0.4mm nozzle? If so Ultradetail is also difficult unless the printer is configured spot-on, generally 0.1mm is as low as I would advise a beginner to try.
Do you have a micrometer?
Measure the diameter of the filament in a few places and average the value, enter it into Filament Settings > Filament > Diameter
And let us know how it turns out.
Cheerio,
RE:
thanks @fuchsr!
before going into an upgrade project, is there a way to know if the idler is tightened correctly?
I played with it and didn't see much difference :/
RE: Filament grinded in extruder and gets stuck with large model
Thanks @Diem!
So I will try to dry it, but how to I know if the filament is dry enough? is there a test I can do?
Yes, the model will be painted, but this is for friends wedding, to the dress needs to stay white, we thought it would be simplest to just print it white, no?
I will try to print at 0.1 mm, but where can I learn all I need to know to print at 0.05? what nozzle size would you recommend for 0.05 if not 0.4?
RE: Filament grinded in extruder and gets stuck with large model
Well, the way to know it's correct is if it doesn't grind filament but still carries it to the hot end. There's no other way I'm aware of.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
RE: Filament grinded in extruder and gets stuck with large model
I have had problems in the past, when printing intricate areas of a model. and have found that in my case, reducing the retractions on the mk3 series printer from default 0.8mm to 0.4mm has improved success.
Similarly with My Mk2 MMU1 printer reducing the Prusa default 4mm retraction to 2mm retraction improved matters...
Please note, the Mk2 MMU1 printer uses Bowden feed, similar to your mini
you might like to try this option...
is there a particular part of the model which has given problems, you may be able to truncate the model so that you don't have to print so much before the issue happens. (or doesn't happen if you find a way to combat it).
Regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
how to I know if the filament is dry enough? is there a test I can do?
Usually two to four hours at 50-60 Celsius is enough, stringing will stop.
Yes, the model will be painted, but this is for friends wedding, to the dress needs to stay white, we thought it would be simplest to just print it white, no?
In theory, yes, but the finish will be different ... Best might be transparent filament sprayed over with primer then white and then paint in the details.
I will try to print at 0.1 mm, but where can I learn all I need to know to print at 0.05? what nozzle size would you recommend for 0.05 if not 0.4?
It's the other way around, sometimes when using smaller nozzles a finer layer height allows a little extra detail but it's just as tricky as with the standard nozzle. The 0.4mm nozzle extrudes a 0.45mm strand and squishes it down; the more it squishes the more the back-pressure inside the hot end increases and the more critial is the idler pressure. I rarely go below 0.2mm layers, 0.15mm is about my limit without doing a very careful tune-up in preparation.
Cheerio,
RE: Filament grinded in extruder and gets stuck with large model
is there a test I can do?
Well, the test is printing a model 🙂
In theory, yes, but the finish will be different ... Best might be transparent filament sprayed over with primer then white and then paint in the details.
This is the way, although I usually just go with whatever filament I have around and spray it with light gray primer.
where can I learn all I need to know to print at 0.05?
Check out https://blog.prusa3d.com/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter_8344/
With a 0.4mm nozzle, you're not going to see any appreciable difference in detail below 0.1mm. With a 0.25mm nozzle you can go lower.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
RE:
I usually dry filaments for 12 hours (overnight) as it's convenient to do so. I'll use 120F/49C.
That has always resulted in them being sufficiently dry to print.
RE: Filament grinded in extruder and gets stuck with large model
Just to update, I tried again with Prusament PLA and it worked 🙂
I still learned a lot from tips here in the thread so thanks!!!