In my current state, the advanced filtration unit is removed. My nominal chamber temp setting is 35C. I'm printing Prusament PLA and PETG. The top vents are fully open. Lowering the bed and nozzle temps barely impact the heat break and chamber temp, but they do impact my print quality. My room is 73F with 31% Humidity.

Prusa specifically marketed this printer saying that you could print PETG and PLA with the door closed, but I'm starting to wonder if that's valid.

I would love some advice.

Reading through comments about bed leveling the Core One series, I started to think about how bed leveling with the Nextruder actually works in conjunction to a full print.  This also fits for the Pinda leveling printers.  In my case, the Pinda shows that there is a variance 0.446mm when doing the bed measurement and thus the printer is supposed to compensate for this error.

This brings up the question for discussion.  If the printer is compensating for the first layer, does the compensation continue throughout the full print?  Why is this a concern?  Accuracy of prints.  Using my default case, if the compensation is carried throughout the full print, the top layer is not going to be flat.  This is not my experience. 

Looking at this further, with comments about the Core One and the suggestion of using set screws to adjust the stop point for the Z-axis motor during homing, to help level the full bed, not just compensate for the expansion of the hot plate.  Also, using shims to flatten the build plate.  Lets say that the Z-axis carriage has a drop on one corner by 0.4mm giving the whole build plate a tilt.  Nextruder pressure sensor should measure and the firmware should compensate for that tilt.  Since the build plate is tilted, now it isn't square with the Z-axis and skewed with the X and Y axes.  So, when printing, to remain square to the build plate, the rest of the print needs to be compensated on both X and Y angles for the printed object to remain square at all sides.  Not an issue for small object but an issue for larger objects as the 0.4mm needs to be compensated for.

I visualize this as a box with a washer under one corner and how the top is not parallel to the table top anymore and the sides are not at 90° with respect to the table anymore.

I will agree, that for most people, this won't be an issue.  As most of my prints are functional parts and in many cases have to mesh into other items, accuracy of prints is important with minimal post processing.  If something isn't square, it may mean that the print is garbage.

I am sure several of you have had to deal with this, or a similar, problem and I wonder how you dealt with it? I guess at worst I will have to skip it and if so are there any components worth saving before I do?
Thanks
B

I have two cylinders of the same radius that are in contact, cylinder_2 is placed on top of cylinder_1. The cylinders are made of two different materials (Flex and PETG).

PrusaSlicer 2.9.5 removes the top solid layers of cylinder_1 and the bottom solid layers of cylinder_2 and connects the infills of the two cylinders.

I want to keep the solid layers in contact (in order to have a better bond between the cylinders).

How can I do that in PrusaSlicer?

Thank you.

I've been printing a lot of these pieces on our Core One printer and have consistently seen a rough strip along the edges of each one. This is fine, as these edges are not critical (but any help here would be appreciated). The real problem is the rough patch seen on the top quarter of this part. It seems that something abruptly changed because the first 75% of the part looks normal. The strange part is that I only see this rough wall issue on the faces that visible in the picture, which were oriented toward the printer door on the print bed. Every other surface looks fine.

Im trying to dip my toes in some PA6 printing. But im having some trouble with it.
I get these blobs in the extruder gears that get stuck.

Loading the filament in and purging seems to going fine. But when i print the filement gets stuck like this.

Using a diamondback nozzle 0.4
Filament: Spectrum PA6 low warp

Printing PETG goes perfectly.

Where do i need to start looking?

3D printing has 3 corner stones,  machines, software and filaments/materials.   Filament development for FDM must continue beyond just new types of plastics turned into filament. 

 There is a need for existing filament types to be improved.   Metal 3D printing requires new alloys to meet similar use requirements as traditional metal forging.  Grinding up 6061 aluminum and then using it in a 3D printer will NOT get 6061 equivalent strength/yield results.  There are new alloys being developed for Metal 3D printing to get the needed results.  In a similar way, we need filaments to improve. 

One example.  I have started using a recent update of  a PETG brand.  It adheres to the bed better and and warps less.   The difference was advertised and I saw it in my use.   Near 0 failure rate with the updated PETG, but near 40% print failure for "classic" PETG.    It was an I-beam project with long I-beams.  The failure was the I-beams warping and pulling up from the bed.   Same G code for both filaments,  programmed for the "Classic" PETG initially.    I think that the other filament suppliers I have been using need to catch up. 

Filament suppliers have begun to understand the need for manufacturing consistency.   Now I am looking for continued improvement of existing and new filaments.  

I have a used MK3S+ printer and an unopened MMU2S kit for sale. I'd like to sell it for 200 000 HUF (560 EUR). What do you think is it a proper selling price for it?

Thanks,
Mark

I am trying to print multiple copies of a bracket using Overture Rock White PETG. When I print a single bracket alone it prints perfectly.

Bracket printed alone and it worked perfectly

But when I try to print 2 or 3 instances at the same time, regardless of their orientation on the plate, I get layer shift at the same place: 48mm (so approx layer 240?).

Same bracket, printed with others on same build plate, with layer shift at same height.

I've tried several times, using up most of a roll of filament, with the same results. I'm open to any suggestions. I need a total of 16 brackets, and they take about 4 hours each, so bring able to print more than one at a time would be better.

I am using FreeCad 1.1 and Prusa Slicer 2.9.4 on a Mac Mini M1 2020 running Tahoe 26.3.1. I have an Prusa MK4S in an enclosure, running Firmware 6.5.3+12780.

Thanks,

Mary.