Printing PC, PINDA support melted
Senior Life member of IEEE.
RE: Printing PC, PINDA support melted
Reprint the extruder parts in a higher temp material and rebuild the printer with them. This is quite a common failure if you read enough posts here. There are also iirc some modified parts that add extra support around that and other parts for those planning on doing a lot of higher temp printing.
RE: Printing PC, PINDA support melted
You're not alone. If you plan on printing lots of PC, reprint the PINDA holder with PC (which is what I did). ASA may also be okay.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
RE: Printing PC, PINDA support melted
With constant high bed temperatures, this can happen.I printed my extruder parts using carbon nylon from 3dxtech. This nylon prints well because of the carbon additive and resists the higher temperatures.
Warping is relatively low. Unfortunately, the filament is somewhat more expensive.
An alternative would be CarbonPC from the same company.
wbr,
Karl
Statt zu klagen, dass wir nicht alles haben, was wir wollen, sollten wir lieber dankbar sein, dass wir nicht alles bekommen, was wir verdienen.
RE: Printing PC, PINDA support melted
Thanks. I was looking for those modified parts, but couldn't find them. Could you please provide a link.
Senior Life member of IEEE.
RE: Printing PC, PINDA support melted
I would print it out of ASA.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: Printing PC, PINDA support melted
My thoughts exactly, I figured this was a common problem. I ordered an extruder housing from Prusa. When I get the housing (I broke mine), I will reprint the thing in PC and put that in the printer. Right now, I can't print anything.
Senior Life member of IEEE.
RE: Printing PC, PINDA support melted
Thanks. Actually, the filament is a lot cheaper direct from 3DXTech. I purchased some of their PETG+CF and it prints well.
I don't want to get a whole roll of the stuff just to print an extruder housing.
I have lots of PC from different manufacturers here, so I'll use that.
However, I you would like to print a housing for me out of the PC+CF.....
Senior Life member of IEEE.
RE: Printing PC, PINDA support melted
Does anyone know where I can get the stl file for the extruder housing so I can print my own?
Senior Life member of IEEE.
RE: Printing PC, PINDA support melted
here you can find printable parts (STL data) for all Prusa printers: https://www.printables.com/de/social/16-prusa-research/collections/54487
wbr,
Karl
Statt zu klagen, dass wir nicht alles haben, was wir wollen, sollten wir lieber dankbar sein, dass wir nicht alles bekommen, was wir verdienen.
RE: Printing PC, PINDA support melted
You're not alone. If you plan on printing lots of PC, reprint the PINDA holder with PC (which is what I did). ASA may also be okay.
This is an interesting subject. Keep in mind my post is coming from someone with little ASA experience and zero PC. You mentioned ASA may be ok, but looking at the printing temps, PC is 270-275 where as ASA is 220 - 275. If you are printing a lot of PC wouldn’t you want to have at least PC components? The heat deflection temperature appears to be a bit better for PC according to Prusa’s chart.
While I don’t yet have an appreciation for either material, wouldn’t you want to stay away from the ASA in this case since Steve is printing a lot of PC? I’m guessing the trade off being ASA is easier to print with?
Mini+MK3S+XL 5 Tool
RE: Printing PC, PINDA support melted
The tradeoff is probably ASA is probably (I have never printed ASA) easier to print. PC is much stronger that ASA, and I usually have no trouble printing it. It sticks like crazy to the smooth PEI steel sheet. I will reprint the extruder parts and the z axis followers out of PC when I get the printer working.
Senior Life member of IEEE.
RE: Printing PC, PINDA support melted
@razor. I'm not suggesting ASA is better than PC. In fact I suggested printing that part in PC.
However, I suspect ASA would be fine. I'm not a materials engineer so I'm not speaking from any position of authority but ASA has a higher glass transition point than PETG and you shouldn't expect to see any deformation up to 93 degrees https://blog.prusa3d.com/asa-prusament-is-here-learn-everything-about-the-successor-to-abs_30636/#_ga=2.191928169.2139848278.1664912228-372106982.1664912228
I don't think you're going to get anywhere near that as ambient enclosure temperature,l; I certainly never have with my shitty LACKs
But again, personally I would (and have) print it with PC, PC-CF, nylon etc.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
RE: Printing PC, PINDA support melted
PC Blend or PC Blend with CF would also work. ASA is easier to print and that is why I printed mine out of it,
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog