I moved the switch that is supposed to make it easier to push filament through, but it makes no difference.  (There does appear to be less resistance after I have pushed the filament through, but it does not make it any easier to get the filament to pass through initially.)

Cutting the filament to a sharp point sometimes helps, but not always.  Rotating the filament as I'm pushing it through sometimes helps.  Wiggling the base of the PTFE tube as it enters the sensor sometimes helps.

It just seems to me like there's something misaligned inside that prevents the filament from being pushed through, no matter how hard you press (enough to bend the filament and put a crease in it, and it still won't go through).

Is this normal, or is it a sign that I have not quite assembled the side filament sensor properly?

There's only 16 large boxes in the viewer in that same Prusa Slicer 2.9.4

Are you only given those 16 larger squares when the mini-Prusa is  the chosen printer?

reddit and Googled results suggest making all the sorts of settings  changes but before I do that maybe it's just a matter that the mini-Prusa has such a small bed all the other squares within those 16 boxes are not needed for the mini-Prusa?

Thank you for your insights and help.

And now Prusa, of all companies, is the first consumer 3D printing vendor to offer subscriptions if you want more storage space or better video streaming?? https://subscription.prusa3d.com/

This sounds like a great way to generate rather limited income but alienate a lot of longstanding users. How does this align with your "you buy it, you own it, no strings attached" marketing message? Yes, I get it, users still own their printers and basic functionality remains free (for now). But can we talk about "mixed messages" for a moment?

IMG_0602

vielleicht stelle ich mich ja etwas blöd an, aber ich hatte es so verstanden, dass mit der Einführung des Core One + auch für den normalen Core One die automatische Öffnung und Schließung des oberen Ventilationsgrills eingeführt wurden.

Das Update hatte ich vor langer Zeit gemacht und seitdem auch schon wieder öfters gedruckt. Der Drucker befindet sich somit auf dem neuesten Stand.

Leider kann ich es jedoch nicht beobachten, dass er selbstständig den Ventilationsgrill öffnet und schließt. Habe ich dahingehend etwas falsch verstanden oder muss man noch irgendwo was aktivieren? Ich habe die Einstellung durchsucht und konnte weder im Slicer noch am Drucker selbst nichts finden.

Für Ideen, was ich noch machen könnte, wäre ich sehr dankbar.

Vielen Dank für Eure Bemühungen!

I have an XL 5-tool, currently with two 0.4mm Obxidian 500 high-flow nozzles, two 0.4mm Obxidian high-flow nozzles, and a 0.6mm Obxidian high-flow nozzle. I have a general preference for printing with PETG, and I'm hoping to play with the UltraGlow and PC-CF filaments as well.

I had been having significant problems with all varieties of PETG filament buildup around nozzles, that buildup causing printhead crashes with prints, buildup dropping onto prints and creating a raft of weird problems both structural and aesthetic, problems with gaps in layers where filament extrusion wasn't "gripping" to the underlying and adjacent print layers, and a significant amount of time and effort and filament reels being wasted in pursuit of "good enough".

I had tried all of the advice, from manipulation of the temperature of extrusion, significantly lowering the feedrate of filament, significantly lowering the printhead speeds, changing the fill types to avoid crossing, varying the extrusion percentage, lots of playing with retraction and wipe and Z-move settings. Nothing was giving me similar results to what I had been getting when I first assembled the printer, and everything was having similar problems. Reverting firmware didn't help either.

As it turns out, one of the few configuration items I did not play with was the "Pressure Advance" parameter, that is in the M572 GCode setting.

Following the suggestions here: https://www.printables.com/model/641490-prusa-slicer-pressure-advance-test I set up the test print with a range of parameter from 0.01 through 0.30 in a couple of prints. For my setup, the HF500 nozzles were looking best with M572 values in the 0.08 to 0.09 range, and looking noticeably poor in the 0.05-0.06 range, and from 0.12 upwards. This was using dried Prusament PETG in the SignalWhite flavour.

Checking the "Custom GCode" for the filament profile, I had seen that in the code there, if the nozzle was advertised as 0.04mm, that the value for Pressure Advance was being set at 0.53.

Setting that value in the custom code section to 0.09, and running a print through one of the normal slightly-modified print profiles that I had previously been having lots of trouble with, I ended up with a print that completed without blobs, that had a consistent surface finish, and that had a nozzle that was free of filament. I was really surprised at the difference this made..

Changing the parameter for other PETG filaments that had poor results previously, allowed similar high standards of completed test prints. 

I effectively have a printer that (assuming no bed adhesion issues, but that is another story!) is pretty much guaranteed to give me a print output that is what is expected, and without the problems that were present.

I am _happy_ now.