Can't screw nozzles into heaterblock
This has suddenly started occurring, and I have no clue why. I change nozzles relatively frequently, from a 0.4 to a 0.25 and vice versa. I have never had an issue doing this in situ (using the nozzle changer tool) in the past. The last time I tried to change the nozzle, I felt a weird resistance and had to pull out the heaterblock entirely to screw the nozzle in. Now, I am completely unable to get the nozzle all the way in. I have attempted to clean the nozzle (which I am certain is not the issue, as all nozzles have this same issue), I have tried to clean the heaterblock, both while hot and cold, with a q-tip and a needle, and nothing has worked. The only thing that has worked whatsoever is screwing the nozzle in from the opposite end. However, I worry that having the wires coming out of the bottom of the extruder would cause multiple issues. What should I do? I have attached a picture of the farthest I can screw it in.
Best Answer by JoanTabb:
have you tried passing an M6 tap theough the heaterblock,
there may be particles of filament in the threads, blocking the passage of the nozzle!
regards Joan
RE: Can't screw nozzles into heaterblock
have you tried passing an M6 tap theough the heaterblock,
there may be particles of filament in the threads, blocking the passage of the nozzle!
regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility.Location Halifax UK
RE: Can't screw nozzles into heaterblock
I had similar happening. The heater block is quite wiggly when you change in-situ, so it is relatively easy to cross thread.
Even in your image, you can see that it is not straight.
I had to remove the block, and carefully screw in the nozzle keeping it straight. Few shavings came off (sic), not it goes fine.
Now, I'm making sure, that when putting nozzle back, I press the heater block up, so all the holes are aligned properly.
RE: Can't screw nozzles into heaterblock
Thanks for providing this tip! I did exactly this and was able to fix the damaged thread and get a new nozzle placed successfully.
RE: Can't screw nozzles into heaterblock
This is annoying and has happened to me as well a couple times when trying to do the rapid nozzle exchange using the recommended tools. The correct tap to pass backward through the block to refresh threads is M6 X 1.0 mm pitch. I happened to have one in my set of taps and dies. Be careful to clear out any metal shavings generated. I am not very fond of the rapid nozzle change tool.
RE:
You can buy another heaterblock without nozzle. I ve one heaterblock by nozzle for my MK4S (0.4, 0.25 and 0.6)
It's faster to change a complete heaterblock with nozzle than change only nozzle.
RE: Can't screw nozzles into heaterblock
It is not! Before you unroll both cables from the cable channel on the Nextruder, and disconnect the connectors from the LoveBoard, I have the nozzle unscrewed long ago after attaching the holding tool to the heat block. And before you replace the heat block, stuff the cables back into the channel and connect the connectors, I have the nozzle screwed in long ago, tightened and heated for printing. And in addition, I do not risk tearing off any of the leads, whether the heater or the thermistor. You just need to have a printed tool to hold the block in place. You can find the tool on Printables. This of course applies to replacing the long nozzle cold. If you have an adapter and short E3d nozzles, it really pays to have the heating blocks ready with the appropriate nozzles mounted and change them completely.
RE: Can't screw nozzles into heaterblock
I change my heater block in a minute. I don't always wait for it to cool down completely either. The cables aren't routed through the designated cable channel. I put them in a small heat-resistant sleeve.
I keep my heater blocks ready in a box, both hardened and standard sizes for various nozzle sizes.
I used to change just the nozzles, but after encountering stripped threads and massive filament overflows (creating a fire hazard because the heater block was completely covered in filament), I prefer to replace the entire block now.