RE: Prusalink vs Octoprint for the MK4
ArcWelder causes my MK3/S to lock up. Took it out of Octoprint, and everything worked fine.
Senior Life member of IEEE.
RE: Prusalink vs Octoprint for the MK4
What kind of Pi are you using? I have had no problem with the Arc-Welder plugin and I have been using it for years on my MK3S+ and also for months on my MK4. I am using it on Pi4s, on slower Pis it probably takes a while to finish processing the file. The plugin should not block anything during printing because the arc conversion process runs after you send the gcode file over from PrusaSlicer and you can start the print job only after the conversion process is finished. Then it is just like printing any other gcode file (it just ends in *aw.gcode) and the plugin is not active on the Pi while the print job is running. It is just a much smaller file that gets sent to the printer.
Did you see a high rate of "resends" in the top left part of the OctoPrint interface? This indicates a communication problem between the Pi and the printer. Normally this value is 0 or very close to 0.
Or did you select "Upload and Print" in PrusaSlicer? This could cause the unprocessed gcode file to be printed and the processing of the Plugin happens anyway and slows everything down, although the arc-welded file will not be printed. As I understand it, you should select just "Upload" and then wait until the Arc-Welder processing is finished before you start the print job of the processed file from the OctoPrint interface. At least that is the way I have been using it, never tried the other way. So I just assume that is what happens if you select "Upload and Print". 🙂
RE: Prusalink vs Octoprint for the MK4
I have also used ArcWelder and MeatPacker for many months on an Rpi 3B without any problems. It may be a conflict between ArcWelder and another plugin.
RE: Prusalink vs Octoprint for the MK4
I currently stopped using octoprint, I got to strange issues. It looks like the head is moving slower then it should, but the extruder extrudes as it moves faster.
So I have many strange walls, but it is not 100% repeatable.
I'm waiting for the new firmware for the MK4
RE: Prusalink vs Octoprint for the MK4
I finally connected my MK4 to Octoprint. It works fine except the printer status is not displayed on the LCD. I submitted a bug report on Github about this.
Senior Life member of IEEE.
RE: Prusalink vs Octoprint for the MK4
This is already known. Octoprint is not fully supported yet, also the filament (runout) sensor does not work with octoprint.
I finally connected my MK4 to Octoprint. It works fine except the printer status is not displayed on the LCD. I submitted a bug report on Github about this.
RE: Prusalink vs Octoprint for the MK4
Any updates on this thread?
Will the new firmware for the MK4/S work with USB printing so we can keep using Octoprint?
Prusa Connect sounds cool, but until it catches up with the features of Octoprint, it would be great to have other options.
RE: Prusalink vs Octoprint for the MK4
Just follow the setup instructions on this page: https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/octoprint-setup-on-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl_646395
I have been using OctoPrint on my MK4 since it arrived in April of 2023. The only thing that does not work (yet?) is the progress display on the printer's screen like it did on the MK3S+. For me this is not an issue as I do not check the progress standing in front of the printer but via the OctoPrint interface in my browser, the same as I do with my MK3S+.
RE: Prusalink vs Octoprint for the MK4
Please tell me there is some way to turn off PrusaLink username/password requirements to connect with my printer or I soon will go mad and throw the f'n thing in the trash bin!
RE: Prusalink vs Octoprint for the MK4
Everything is working except progress display? Have they fixed being able to adjust the Live Z when you started a print via Octoprint? Yes, I know I shouldn't have to adjust Live Z, but there are times I need to do it for certain parts and/or Filaments. When I started a print via OctoPi I wasn't able to adjust the Live Z. As a result I've stopped using my OctoPi and switched to Prusa Connect... I miss my OctoPi, soooo much better than Prusa Connect.
Just follow the setup instructions on this page: https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/octoprint-setup-on-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl_646395
I have been using OctoPrint on my MK4 since it arrived in April of 2023. The only thing that does not work (yet?) is the progress display on the printer's screen like it did on the MK3S+. For me this is not an issue as I do not check the progress standing in front of the printer but via the OctoPrint interface in my browser, the same as I do with my MK3S+.
- 1st "printer" TIKO 3D
- 2nd PRUSA i3 MK2S with MMU v1
- 3rd PRUSA i3 MK2S
- 4th PRUSA i3 MK3 with MMU v2- 5th PRUSA i3 MK4 (upgraded from MK3) with MMU v3 (upgraded from…
RE: Prusalink vs Octoprint for the MK4
So far I have never needed the live Z adjustment on my MK4. I have used several types of print sheets with it, textured and satin I use mostly, but the smooth one worked as well. Also I have used PLA(+), PETG, PCCF, TPU, TPE, ABS, ASA. No problems with 1st layer quality with any of them. I know there is something about pressing and holding the rotary knob or double clicking it at the start of the print job to get to live z adjustment, but I have never checked if that works as well when printing via OctoPrint. Apparently not all printers were created equally ...
RE: Prusalink vs Octoprint for the MK4
I have seen other reports of needing to fiddle with Live-Z, but my MK4/MK4S has truly lived up to the "perfect first layer" hype. So, like Walter, I have never used the "live-Z" adjustment.
For those who need some adjustment... A method compatible with Octoprint is PrusaSlicer's "Printer, General, Z offset" setting. Obviously not "live", but if someone knows they need (for example) Z-0.03 for a specific filament/sheet combo, using that setting will adjust the Gcode itself.
So far I have never needed the live Z adjustment on my MK4. I have used several types of print sheets with it, textured and satin I use mostly, but the smooth one worked as well. Also I have used PLA(+), PETG, PCCF, TPU, TPE, ABS, ASA. No problems with 1st layer quality with any of them. I know there is something about pressing and holding the rotary knob or double clicking it at the start of the print job to get to live z adjustment, but I have never checked if that works as well when printing via OctoPrint. Apparently not all printers were created equally ...