ObXidian nozzles - how good are its non-stick properties?
I'm getting a 0.6mm obxidian nozzle for abrasive filaments. I'm considering whether I should also get a 0.4 obxidian nozzle, but mostly for the advertised non-stick properties. I think it might be a nice quality-of-life improvement if filament sticks considerably less to it, especially if it helps avoid nozzle build-up with PETG.
In the reviews and impressions I've found I have not seen this mentioned or tested much at all. So my question is, how well does this actually work in practice?
RE: ObXidian nozzles - how good are its non-stick properties?
I have been using an obxidian nozzle for some time now, besides the fact that I bought it to print carbon filament, I had read that the filament sticks less on it, it’s a reality, previously with my mk3 I used nickel plated copper nozzles for the same reason because I mainly print petg.
MK4/MMU3 - VORON 2.4 350 Stealthburner
RE: ObXidian nozzles - how good are its non-stick properties?
Thanks for your input, much appreciated!
I would love to hear from more people, but I guess I'll give it a go. I'd rather regret buying it than regret not buying it 🙂
RE:
It's my go-to for both 0.6mm and 0.4mm. It really is a drop-in replacement, and the "sticktion" results are slightly better. I wouldn't say it's a game changer, but I've been getting absolutely fantastic results from it with PETG (both 0.4 and 0.6), with stringing usually only occurring in the expected high-detail areas/quick layers just like the standard brass nozzle. Filament/crud buildup is minimal, haven't had to anything really noticeable other than the usual slight coating that can easily be removed with a few quick passes with a wire brush.
These results go for both the v6 + nozzle adapter, as well as the full nextruder style, all using input shaping with mostly stock print/filament profiles (prusament/generic PLA/PETG, normally have PLA temperature set to 240 on other layers due to flow rate).
PLA prints are absolutely flawless. Prusament PCCF on the 0.6mm is also drop dead gorgeous.
The real test is going to be with the MMU, since mid-print filament changes both cause buildup, yet need as little as possible for a good quality (or even just a finished) print.
RE: ObXidian nozzles - how good are its non-stick properties?
hi, i got the ,4 and ,6 too. Yes its easier to wipe off.
(But as said in the instructions. Don't use a wire brush or similar. You wouldn't clean your anti-stick pan with a wire brush 🙂
Before printing inside an enclosure i had to dial up the nozzle heat around 5 ° to match the results i got with the brass nozzle. (Steel not being that conductive than brass)
I'm waiting for the carbonfiber filament to arrive 🙂
RE: ObXidian nozzles - how good are its non-stick properties?
Posted by: @carlmmii
It's my go-to for both 0.6mm and 0.4mm. It really is a drop-in replacement, and the "sticktion" results are slightly better. I wouldn't say it's a game changer, but I've been getting absolutely fantastic results from it with PETG (both 0.4 and 0.6), with stringing usually only occurring in the expected high-detail areas/quick layers just like the standard brass nozzle. Filament/crud buildup is minimal, haven't had to anything really noticeable other than the usual slight coating that can easily be removed with a few quick passes with a wire brush.
Thanks! Sounds like it's not as good as an upgrade in that regard as I had hoped.
(But as said in the instructions. Don't use a wire brush or similar. You wouldn't clean your anti-stick pan with a wire brush 🙂
Before printing inside an enclosure i had to dial up the nozzle heat around 5 ° to match the results i got with the brass nozzle. (Steel not being that conductive than brass)
Thanks for your input!
However these two points directly contradict E3D marketing on the Obxidian, as seen here.
Regarding the coating, I think you're confusing obxidian with Nozzle X. A brush should not be used on nozzle X (as mentioned in the article linked above), but they say you can brush the obxidian as much as you like (emphasis mine):
Nozzle X vs ObXidian
Nozzle X also has a non-stick coating, but it’s fair to say it doesn't really repel polymers. We advise against using brass brushes or even paper towels to clean Nozzle X, as these quickly wear away its delicate non-stick coating.
Obxidian:
Non-stick properties are embedded into the coating itself. Great news for fans of the brass brush. You are free to scrub ObXidian to your heart's content. Cold pulls are also on the cards. These were two of the main focuses of customer feedback about Nozzle X, and we took this on board when creating ObXidian. Check out this guide for more info on our recommended cleaning techniques.
Weirdly enough the cleaning guide they link to can't actually be viewed unless you login to their customer system.
They also claim that no temperature adjustment is necessary compared to a brass nozzle, since obxidian nozzles are all brass except for the very tip. But I'll believe you on that part, I'm not suprised if it doesn't work as well as advertised.
ObXidian’s copper-alloy construction means you no longer need to spend time fiddling with temperature values to account for the weaker thermal performance of other abrasion-resistant nozzle offerings. Simply select the profile you would use for your brass nozzles and hit print. A true drop-in replacement for your brass nozzles.
RE:
I've been printing for a couple of weeks now with Obsidian nozzles and haven't seen any need to adjust temperatures. In that respect, they've performed like my tungsten carbide nozzles, which I miss dearly.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
RE: ObXidian nozzles - how good are its non-stick properties?
Are there any infos when the ObXidian nozzle will be back in stock?
RE: ObXidian nozzles - how good are its non-stick properties?
My Ob nozzles work well. I really am a fan of the socks for the heat block on the MK4. Had a couple of prints fail, and it was no drama with the socks keeping it from sticking to the machine.
RE: ObXidian nozzles - how good are its non-stick properties?
I have been using one on my MK3/S (with a Revo 6) and my MK4. They are great. I print CF stuff as well as PETG. I don't have to worry about what nozzle is in the machine when I print a particular filament.
I am waiting for another for ny newly-arriving XL.
Steve
Senior Life member of IEEE.
RE: ObXidian nozzles - how good are its non-stick properties?
does the heat need to be adjusted for the Obxidian nozzel?
RE: ObXidian nozzles - how good are its non-stick properties?
I am pretty cynical and I am very happy with the nozzles I own.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: ObXidian nozzles - how good are its non-stick properties?
I have ObXidians in both the Revo6 on my MK3S+ and in my Mk4. I did not adjust anything temp-wise, on neither of them. I have been printing PLA, White PLA, PolyTerra PLA, PETG, PC-CF, TPE and ABS with them so far. I would definitely recommend them.
Before I had used some hardened steel nozzles and some NozzleXes for abrasive filament. With them I had to rise the temperature a bit, about 5 °C, sometimes 10 °C.
RE: ObXidian nozzles - how good are its non-stick properties?
OK perfect thanks much. i did a test print while waiting for a replay and it printed perfect!
RE: ObXidian nozzles - how good are its non-stick properties?
I've been printing for a couple of weeks now with Obsidian nozzles and haven't seen any need to adjust temperatures. In that respect, they've performed like my tungsten carbide nozzles, which I miss dearly.
I think there might be some good news regarding using WC nozzles on our MK4s. I just discovered two sources for a copper plated nextruder style heater block. One from the Netherlands at Levendigs for $14USD, and one from Ohio at Partsbuilt 3D for $18.95USD. A little research and I see that Partsbuilt 3D is a US distributor for Levendigs, so it may be the same part.
I can't speak for the quality of the part since I just now found it on a google search, but I think that I'll be ordering some.
See my (limited) designs on:
Printables - https://www.printables.com/@Sembazuru
Thingiverse - https://www.thingiverse.com/Sembazuru/designs
RE: ObXidian nozzles - how good are its non-stick properties?
Grrr... Edit timeout ran out...
I've been printing for a couple of weeks now with Obsidian nozzles and haven't seen any need to adjust temperatures. In that respect, they've performed like my tungsten carbide nozzles, which I miss dearly.
I think there might be some good news regarding using WC nozzles on our MK4s. I just discovered two sources for a copper plated nextruder style heater block. One from the Netherlands at Levendigs for $14USD, and one from Ohio at Partsbuilt 3D for $18.95USD. A little research and I see that Partsbuilt 3D is a US distributor for Levendigs, so it may be the same part.
I can't speak for the quality of the part since I just now found it on a google search, but I think that I'll be ordering some.
I'm now don't think the two heater blocks are the same part. PB3D also carries silicone socks, both the black ones from Prusa and colored ones marked as Levendigs brand. But the copper heater block is marked as PB Select brand so it is probably their own blocks (or at least contracted out with their drawings/specs). I wonder how the tolerances, plating thicknesses, and other specs differ between Levendigs and PB3D. I'm leaning towards Levendigs because the shipping cost isn't that bad and they offer discounts on the colored socks when combined with heater blocks so I can color-code my nozzle sizes with the Revo colors.
See my (limited) designs on:
Printables - https://www.printables.com/@Sembazuru
Thingiverse - https://www.thingiverse.com/Sembazuru/designs
RE: ObXidian nozzles - how good are its non-stick properties
I don't know about external sticking resistance, but following my very first CF-PETG print using a brand new 0.4 obXidian nozzle, the filament formed a plug about 2 mm above the heatblock. Boy is is it in there. This is first filament plug I've experienced that I could not get out using mechanical methods, in 9 years of 3d printing.
I heated the block to 280C and tried to push a needle through it no luck. I couldn't get a filament sized drill bit through either. I can't get new filament into the melting zone to try a cold pull . I feel like I'm stuck with a chemical solution and plan on dropping some Xylene or Toluene down the top of the heat block and letting it set over night.
Does any0one have a better method?
RE: ObXidian nozzles - how good are its non-stick properties?
yeah. i think these Obxidian nozzles are overated. Bought them thinking it'll solve PETG sticking to nozzle issue i had with stock nozzle. Obxidian nozzle didn't do diddly squat. The coatings come off too! so there's that. only thing i think that's holding its value right now is handling of "special blend" filament which i wouldn't know for now as i have only used PLA and PETG.
RE: ObXidian nozzles - how good are its non-stick properties?
I didn't get the ObXidian nozzle because of it's non-stick properties, especially since I clean the nozzle after every print with a brass wire brush. I got it so when I print CF material (CF+PETG and CF+PC), I don't have to worry about changing nozzles or futzing with temperatures. It just works. Prints PETG excellently as well.
The ObXidian nozzle is a no brainer. I got one for my MK4 and XL so I don't have to futz with nozzles when changing materials. The nextruder means I don't have to futz with first layer calibration. I just like to make stuff, not fool around with the printer.
Senior Life member of IEEE.
RE:
I now have a couple of obXidian nozzles, and can answer my own question here.
My conclusion: Do not buy these if you are hoping for less filament sticking to the nozzle. It is just as bad as the brass nozzles, PETG especially sticks to it like crazy.
The black DLC coating is also extremely fragile. My 0.4 obxidian is very lightly used (probably less than 50 hours of total print time), and the coating is pretty much completely gone. I haven't even printed with anything abrasive yet, just your standard PLA and PETG, mostly Prusament. I regularly clean it with a brass brush when necessary, as per the instructions from E3D on how to clean obxidian nozzles.
I honestly don't know why they even bother with the coating when it disappears almost instantly.