How do I print this? (Printing help) - Prusa3D Forum

Prusa MK3.5S layer calibration tool issue

Andrew M — Tue, 12 May 2026 06:11:24 +0000

Hello,

For context I own 4 mk3s printers and one I have recently converted to Mk3,5s and 0.6mm nozzle after putting roughly 1500hours on it. I am finding using the first layer calibration tool gives good results but when you go to print a part at say 0.32mm layer height 0.2mm first layer, the first layer is way off and I have to adjust z offset to get a good first layer again. I also have to slow it down to roughly 50% speed. once I have a good first layer I can crank the speed back up to 100% and get a good part.

It appears like the first layer tool doesn't apply z offset appropriately depending on what layer height you print at. same issue for PLA OR PETG smooth or textured bed. No improvement with dried filament and printer in tent. Tried clean beds (soapy water) or with glue stick no difference.

Slicer 2.9.4

Firmware 6.5.3

Texturing a multi-part print consistently

Wooloothedark — Thu, 23 Apr 2026 15:53:28 +0000

I'm trying to add a wood texture to a multi-part print, but it has so many pieces that I can't just do it individually. Not only because it would take five years, but also because the wood grain wouldnt be aligned across parts. While yes, I could just use this one, it doesn't come with each color being a different part. And I can't paint well for crap, so I'm stuck with the far more complex solution. So, I'm wondering if there's a way I can apply the texture to the model globally BEFORE slicing it, because it doesn't all fit on one bed.

my proposed solution would be to:
1. arrange them into their assembled shape
2. merge them but keep them as separate shells**
3. Apply a texture to them via bumpmesh.com
4. Separate the mesh again into separate STLs with Meshmixer ***

**No idea how merging works in PrusaSlicer, but I assume since you can still split parts that have been merged, it does this automatically.

*** a tool I have never used before lol

However, this also seems decently lengthy, and after attempting it, neither Meshmixer nor Prusaslicer itself can open the merged file exported by PrusaSlicer (I didn't even apply the texture yet), so please let me know if I'm overlooking something simpler.

Thanks for the help!

P.s.
I'm decently new to 3d printing (and most of my hours are on a Bambulab P1S at my school), and I'm still trying to fumble my way around the more advanced aspects of PrusaSlicer. So please try to keep the lingo beginner-friendly!

Print quality issue between MK3S and MK3.5S - Overhang on model

Cheb — Sat, 28 Feb 2026 00:41:42 +0000

Hi there,

Looking for some advice/help on what I could fix or tune in Prusa slicer to get a better quality finish on a part.

I've recently upgraded to the MK3.5S from a MK3S and overall the printer has been great - much faster speeds and amazing quality.

I'm having one particular issue though with a model in PETG where I had much less quality issues before when I printed on a MK3S

Top View

Slicer output for MK3.5S 0.10 speed detail profile.

In my model, I have a section which is a bit of an overhang/bridge. It is fairly steep but I managed to print it on the MK3S with organic supports in PETG without too bad a finish. If I try the same with my MK3.5S printer, I get horrible quality in that particular section - with or without supports.

Are there any settings I can tune to improve/fix this issue? I'm pretty basic and have only been using the stock profiles for each printer e.g. .10mm detail, with minor modifications on temperature for first layer and enabling organic supports. Using the same filament in the MK3.5S and MK3S, same nozzle, nothing physical has changed apart from the installation of the upgrade kit.

Pretty stumped, only thing I can think of is to print slower in that particular section.

Any advice would be great!

Nylon print fails when print region gets much smaller

ga — Fri, 24 Oct 2025 18:41:04 +0000

I'm printing Taulman 645 nylon in a pattern that consists of a large outer ring and a smaller inner post. At a certain height, the outer ring ends and is no longer printed. At that point, the printing of the inner posts becomes terrible. I'm guessing this is a result of excessive heat. I had the fan turned off for the whole print, as recommended for nylon, but am thinking I should turn it on at this point. Is excessive heat likely the problem (see image), or something else? If heat is the problem, is there a better way to turn on the fan in Prusa Slicer other than specifying the number of layers?

The .3mf attached is a modified version which printed successfully; the .jpg is an image of the failed print.

524170e3-oringbtm.tar.gz

Stringing - I need help, have not been able to fix it.

Will Rutherford — Fri, 17 Oct 2025 17:39:37 +0000

I have a Prusa MK3.5, and, it used to print great, but, recently, the stringing has become very bad. Here is the list of things I have tried.

Firmware update / reset settings / 4 computers / Cura and Prusa Slicer / Flash drive and Prusasync

New PLA (4 different manufacturers, all brand new), and drying the PLA

4 new 0.4 tips, and, one 0.3 tip

Replace tip cooling fan with 2 conch fans.

Replace side cooling fan with a Noctua

Replaced the bed top

Printing at 175c (this helped but didn't fix it)

Replaced the extrusion gears

Dozens of different retraction settings, flow rate.

Had 2 other people that 3dprint try to fix it.

----------------------------------

I have not yet replaced the entire hotend or the motors. Manual check on extrusion and retractions come out fine.

And, when it is done printing, and lifts, it continues to extrude/leak about an inch more material (it doesn't take any more in, so, some sort of reservoir?)

I am now almost 4 months into trying to fix this.

Thanks for any help you can give ... please ᭥(º෴º)𐃳

3x MK3s+ and 1 print different

tr-creations — Sun, 28 Sep 2025 17:26:46 +0000

HI!

I have 3 MK3S+ and with one printer i have a problem to print 45°.
I use the same GCode and petg material. The firmware is the same.
I changed fan, thermistor, thermal paste and so on...
I did the temperature calibration.
I print the same part on other position on heatbed, but same result.

I haven't replaced the entire hotend yet; first, I would like to ask you

Does anyone else have any idea what the problem could be?

Printing issues with VarioShore PTU

Designguy — Tue, 09 Sep 2025 18:45:08 +0000

I'm trying to dial in my settings for a print using varioShore TPU. I've printing this part in another generic TPU material with no issues.

The main issue I'm seeing is small blobs along the wall and one area where the layers are not aligned. I've tried slowing the print speed and different retraction numbers with some improvement but its not quite dialed yet. Does this look like a speed or retraction issue or something else? thoughts?

ASA top Layer issues on a flat surface

BrettG — Fri, 05 Sep 2025 09:27:36 +0000

Been trying to master the ASA top Layer but still not 100%

from the image what would change to get a better top layer

ASA on the textured plate using 3Dlac adhesive - In an Enclosure preheated and around 30 - 40c when running.

260c Noz - 110c Bed - Fan 5%

20% infill gyroid and 80% cupid infill just below when it starts to do the top layers

the bottom layer is stuck to the plate without any warping,

I've tried extrusion down to 92% without any luck , played around with fan speeds. added extra top layers, tried the ironing option, tried 2 different brands of filament

all without any better results

Added the Hex pattern to brake up the top layer, the actual part is 6mm thick

Been through the posts on here and reddit without any luck when changing settings to other users

67b46319-thumbnail_img_6242111.jpg

Printing Smooth Bottom Surface (especially with adhesives)

Tango — Tue, 02 Sep 2025 21:16:05 +0000

Generally I get a smooth bottom surface on a print and, if needed, could print upside down and use the bottom on the print bed as the top. Sometimes I get issues with that, but not often. The one time it is an issue is when I have to use an adhesive on the bed:

The "scratch lines" on this surface are from the adhesive I spread on the bed to keep the print on the bed. This is a large square object and when I print it, I generally prefer adhesive. While warping isn't really an issue for an open square (as opposed to a big square surface), sometimes I have issues. The adhesives I find work best for me are the ones resembling stick glue. I've tried spray on adhesives without much luck. The kinds that apply with a sponge on the bottle top can also leave lines or patterns on the bed that result in an issue like this.

While I'm interested in general tips to make sure the bottom layer is smooth (and let's skip the obvious - making sure the print bed itself isn't damaged), I'm especially interested in finding out how I can use adhesives and have a smooth surface, not one like in the photo.

Problem with printer striping

Dschiri1 — Sun, 31 Aug 2025 21:57:40 +0000

This just started after the firmware update

I have a i3mk3.5S with MMU3

firmware 6.2.4+8909

Filament is PLA.

All my prints are coming out this way where its just not laying down filament consistently.

What I have done.

Calibrated first layer. same results

Changing filament with 6 spools, 3 different manufactures, including a brand new unopened spool. (part picture used a brand new spool) same results

Changed nozzle to new one. same results

I have used standard settings.

What should I check or look for?

Is there a problem with firmware?

Rest Regards