Wants to know some information for Preventing and Clearing Clogs in 3D Printer Nozzles?  

RE: Wants to know some information for Preventing and Clearing Clogs in 3D Printer Nozzles?

Watch out for fine details that print little, with many retractions.    I had a bridge detail with hundreds of rivet heads in the model.  That means a tiny blob of material and a retraction for each rivet head.  The filament for hundreds of rivets hardly advances at all.   The nextruder tends to break some of my PLA filaments after a hundred or so retracts with almost no advance of the filament.   The older extruders just wore a hole in the filament and stopped feeding.   A dragon or animal with lots of small spikes or hairs also has done this to me, on seperate printers.  

Angling the bridge pieces with supports so the rivets aren't done all at once was one answer.    There are limits to the machines and filament endurance.    

Dry your filaments before printing and again before storing.   Filament breaking in the extruder path has frequently been stored damp and micro-cracked.

Make sure there are no obstructions, kinks or sticky/dirty spots in the filament path - clean dust from your delivery tubes from time to time, make sure your spools rotate freely but don't overrun.  Check the gripping teeth in the extruder are not clogged, make sure the extruder idler pressure is correct.

Do not atempt to print filled filaments with standard nozzles - wood and cork fill require at least 0.6mm nozzles, preferably 0.8mm.

Do not leave filament to cook in heated nozzles when not printing.

When changing from a high printing-temperature filment to a lower one make the change at the higher temperature, purge extra, then go to the lower temperature and start the print straight away.

Do not use very low layer heights (in the mistaken belief that detail will be better) until you have accumulated plenty of experience with default layer heights - 0.2mm/0.15mm for 0.4mm nozzles.

Cheerio,