SBS-Glass  

Yes but you'd need an over powering reason.

Glass is problematic with a printer uses an inductive sensor for bed leveling.

If you had a really good reason to use glass you could do the silicon leveling thing, turn off bed auto leveling (I don't know if thats an option) and do it old school.

Read the link, the OP is talking about a filament type, not modifying their printer to use a glass bed.  Cant help with the filament as I've never come across it before but temperature wise it looks similar to petg so it should be printable.

Not a glass plate

Sorry, but I do not want to use a glass plate on my prusa printer, the product I'm talking about is a filament called SBS-glas (see the link in my post).

RE: SBS-Glass

I do not know about SBS, but folks have used specialized glass to include mirrors.  

RE: SBS-Glass

Posted by: @yves

Has anybody tried SBS-glass ( https://www.craftbot.nl/product/soft-glass-filamentarno-750gr-1-75mm-transparant/) on a Prusa 3D printer?

Oopsi

RE: SBS-Glass

Mein Deutsch ist sehr rostig (hey, did I get that much right?) and then I found the Englische translation, LOL, but this looks interesting. 

However, I get the impression that the glassiness (is that a word?) and clarity is more due to smoothing than the filament itself. 

Has anyone used this and also something like Hatchbox ABS transparent? If so, how did they compare as far as real clearness?

RE: SBS-Glass

Posted by: @annier

Mein Deutsch ist sehr rostig (hey, did I get that much right?) and then I found the Englische translation, LOL, but this looks interesting. 

However, I get the impression that the glassiness (is that a word?) and clarity is more due to smoothing than the filament itself. 

Has anyone used this and also something like Hatchbox ABS transparent? If so, how did they compare as far as real clearness?

That is about right as rough as my interpretation does.  

Seems about average

The results from the website look about average to me, for what I expect when printing clear ABS or PETG. Frankly I have found Ninjaflex water to be one of the most clear filaments I've ever printer. but its TPU so not much structural integrity.

Regards

Swiss_Cheese

RE: SBS-Glass

Posted by: @annier

Mein Deutsch ist sehr rostig (hey, did I get that much right?)

Uncommon wording, but okay for German. The linked Website is in Dutch, though, which might explain your difficulties in reading it … 😉

They look to be clear coated

The challenge with printing transparent is about keeping all of the layer lines in the same direction.  Slicers, such as PS, try and improve part strength by making alternating layers align at 90 degrees.  You can spin the 90 degree lines around - but they are always 90 degrees apart (perpendicular).  This makes for strong, hard to see through parts.

I've done some long experiments on achieving "see through" as in window clear, read text from across the room parts.  You have to overcome the slicers tendency to cloud the print (parallel layers are essential).  This is quite difficult to do in prusa slicer however.  Then, once you have all of your clear material extruded linearly aligned over several/many layers you have to:

1.  Have an amazing first layer.  This determines how squished the lines are going to be.  If there are air spaces between them, you will see the air as white bubbles.

2.  Surface is still bumpy from the way FDM works.  So you have to do "lapping" - a technique used to grind lenses.  150 grit.  200 grit.  400 grit.  800 grit.  1200 grit.  Then steel wool.  When you finally get the surface scratches to be microscopic, then go to the plastic polishes - tripoli and a buffing wheel.

3.  This takes a long long time and a lot of effort.  You have to be a craftsperson to get the quality over a non-flat surface such as a bottle.  A truly clear bottle done via lapping will take 60 hours of work to get glass clear after printing.

4.  So people take short cuts and there are a variety of "spray on" treatments that will make a single-layer (vase mode print) look smooth.  Notice the bottles in those pictures are "globby" looking on the surface - like they have been temperature.solvent processed.  those approaches are good for single layer.  For truly "block of glass" - you'll need to get the filaments to align, then do the post processing work.