I am considering purchasing a Core One+ but I don't have room for keeping it on a permanent basis in my work area. I am thinking of keeping it assembled and in the original box in a storage room (same building) and then bringing it over and installing it when I want to have a printing session.

Is this something that is risk-free? I have never worked with a 3d printer and have no idea how sensible they are to being moved.

Thanks,

Robert

So with some success printing larger objects such a lovely peg basket lately, I wanted to print a small waste paper bin for our bathroom. I haven't found and good 'bin' models, but some nice 'vase' ones will suffice. So using the Connect app how can I get the models that are designated to print in vase mode, to print? When I upload them, to the Connect slicer they generate as solid block, I'm still not sure why, but thought it a quirk of the model needing to be printed in vase mode, anyway how do I print it properly in vase mode on the app?

Apologies in advance if its a click away, but my smooth brain is really struggling 😅 

Scott

a week into assembly, after just a few prints, I suddenly encountered a homing issue. It started with the home function: it started bumping and bumping and bumping and then failed. No way to home the printer.

I performed the Home calibration test, and the printer wouldn't pass the homing test 😭  and so I contacted PRUSA.  

I'll spare you the six-hour test story, but basically, the belt tension was uneven and the gantry was warping. 😣

It was perfect a few days earlier, but now it wasn't. So I spent the entire time with PRUSA support figuring out how to calibrate the belt tension and make the gantry squared at the same time, but with the optimal belt tension. This is tricky because if you change the tension, the gantry become uneven, and it is very difficult make it square with the correct level of tension. You may have it squared with the wrong level of tension, or you may have the correct level of belt tension but the gantry is not squared any more 😫 !

Moreover this, you have the issue of getting the tension value!

The problem is that the strobe lighting system is too subjective when it comes to adjusting the belts. I, on the other hand, had used a dynamometer in the past, which always gave me the exact measurement, and I had always calibrated my printers with that.  The problem was that we couldn't agree on the dynamometer value to use, since they don't use it.

Then, support sent me a video of one of their printers that was (almost) correctly calibrated, to show me what it looked like under the strobe light.

From there, I tried it myself, but the tensions were still approximate. The oscillations were quite subjective and imprecise, and even with the video, because it didn't provide precise measurable data. Eventually, he suggested a different method that he used to tune his printers, again with strobe lights, which somehow allowed me to calibrate it, and the printer passed the tests 😊.

Then came the turning point, when he also sent me a video of the sound I heard when plucking the straps 🤩 . Luckily, having perfect pitch, I immediately reproduced his frequency adjusting the belts to the same frequency. Then, however, I measured the PRUSA value with a dynamometer and discovered that it was exactly the initial value I had set during my assembly 😆 .

I did not had any issue since then, and almost all head bums in homing went away.

Have some of you had a similar experience with belts and gantry ?

Best Regards

I always try to not use support material if possible, on my previous Anet A8 printer with and old version of some slicer I had no issue removing support material. I just knew that it wouldn't look great where it had been, most of it or all of it came off easily.

But with my Core One I have some issues with the default settings, it's hard to remove.

In the image below I printed some wheels for a Husqvarna Automower and it was the worst yet. To the left is the normal 0.4 nozzle and I thought that was hard to remove, using pliers etc. Then I got to the one on the right, that's printed with default settings using a 0.8 nozzle and I basically couldn't remove it. I used knives, pliers and even a chisel. It's hard to tell where the support material ends and where the model starts. This goes for both the examples, but the 0.8 was almost impossible. I'm sure I removed more than support here and there.

Just wondering if anyone else have this problem and what settings you recommend? Thanks!

I'm guessing the answer is "no" but here goes:

Is there a way to "Set Ready" a printer automatically after completing print?
We have a bed cleaner mod on one of our old MK3s that was working well on Octoprint but it would be great to have all of our printers on PrusaConnect.

Thanks for your help.