https://makerworld.com/en/models/1921857-hal-rotterdam-nieuw-statendam1-500-cruise-ship#profileId-2223857

I've just spent considerable time (many hours)  creating the bgcode files for this print from Maker World.
I had to export components to Prusa Slicer and then manually paint the MMU colour requirements and then slice to get a Core One + MMU3 bgcode file.

I was going to print on my Core One+ MMU3 setup, but given some components have very high numbers of filament changes, I thought I'd place the project on hold for a few months until I receive and install the 8 tool INDX system that I have on pre order, given the print time and filament savings that can be expected.

Does anyone know much about the future capabilities of Prusa Slicer and INDX? I believe a complete new version of the slicer will be released but am interested as to whether there will be a conversion path to INDX for existing bgcode files or whether I will have to abondon these & start again from scratch.

I came across this article: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/bed-level-correction_2267 and decided to give it a try.

Initially, before starting the print, the 49-point bed probe would fail with "The bed doesn't seem to be aligned properly" error (which supported my belief that the bed was not properly level).  After some searching online and various adjustments to the trapezoidal nuts attaching the plate I was able to get it to pass the z-level test and print the test object.

The results are below.  The top-right area looks like a bed adhesion problem, or that the nozzle was too far from the plate.  While watching the print I noticed that the bed would move down while the nozzle was extruding the parts of the print that are all wonky.  Is there any idea as to why this is happening and how it should be corrected?

Unfortunately the instructions I found were for other models and the Core One doesn't seem to have a bed level correction feature (unless I am completely missing it somewhere).

Any assistance would be appreciated.  Thanks!

I have and MK2 that was given back to my university after a "student use". It was sitting in a closet for 2+ years and now students want to print some parts for stop motion puppets and I turned MK2 back again.

This is what came out from Sunlu PLA on stock settings. Retraction change didn't do anything. Extruder works, I inserted new nozzle but now I am think that it can be a thermistor issue - ordered a new one. Do you have any  ideas what else can be a problem? :) Other Prusa - MK2.5s works with the same spool just fine. I know these aren't best printers but I only need them for basic PLA prints to sand and paint over.

http://prusa.io/core-one-l-phstep-qr

That page just redirects to the main page and doesn't show any documentation about stepper calibration. Besides pointing to something that exists, shouldn't it also be https? 

https://www.amazon.com/UKIAF-254x241mm-Textured-Printers-Dual-Sided/dp/B0FD8GY6YB/ref=rvi_d_sccl_17/142-0321790-7939369?pd_rd_w=1T2Hv&content-id=amzn1.sym.f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pf_rd_p=f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pf_rd_r=KSHBQEC64M12Z5BPJ3A9&pd_rd_wg=NAHBl&pd_rd_r=dfc1fc2b-ea4a-40d9-a809-66d3639559f4&pd_rd_i=B0FD8GY6YB&th=1 

The reason I'm on this journey at all is because the first layer on the old sheet and with the old settings was streaky at the print bed and the layers were rough.

I am trying to figure out if it is a component that needs to be replaced or is there a calibration I am missing that I need to undergo to get this operational again. 

Below are some pictures that might help.

The box has an opening that fits either the bare filament or a PTFE tube. I tried printing with the filament sticking out directly (no tube) on a 5h print — worked perfectly, and the internal humidity sensor read 10% both before and after. I'm wondering if I actually need to use a PTFE tube for this connection or can I just use it as it is. The filament touches the drybox and bends a bit in its route to the printer. I thought it would be a problem but it seems to work fine (with PLA):

My big problem is unloading. The Core One has a long filament buffer from the filament entrance to the extruder, so there's a lot of buffer to pull out when unloading filament. Since the spool sits inside the sealed box, I can't rewind the slack back onto the roll, so I'm left with a long length of filament hanging out with nowhere to go (photo below). What's the best way to deal with this?

I haven't printed the official PTFE tube solution yet — but as far as I can tell it only protects the filament from being exposed to humidity during feeding and doesn't help the unloading problem. Am I missing something, or is there a trick to this?

why did the printer destroy itself after one year of regular use? 

what now?

I want a new printer or my money back.

I just went to do it again and now the whole view is completely blocked by an enormous render of the whole print head, completely blocking the view of what's actually happening!

How do I get the old view back where I can actually see the lines being printed?  I know what my print head looks like, I don't need to see a render of it!  I can't see any layer lines with that monstrosity blocking the view.

I've just spent an hour digging through all the options with no luck, and I was even desperate enough to ask AI which wasted a good 15 minutes before it admitted to me it was giving me instructions for a completely different program even though I told it I was using PrusaSlicer.