Re: PLA Curling after Part Update
Thanks - I'll give that a go. If you rename the stl file as a txt file you'll be able to attach it.
regards,
Texy
It still gives me "invalid extension".
Re: PLA Curling after Part Update
I'd had this effect on parts with extreme overhang angles and unsupported perimeters.
Doesn't the extruder flow depend a lot on the filament diameter, that any variation in filament diameter changes what is laid down by the extruder?
At least I've seen some examples where the filament seems to have been much thinner and much thicker resulting in over-extruded layers followed by under-extruded layers. It's enough of an issue I will measure filament during prints and found that diameter will change randomly in some big ways - enough that a single adjustment can't compensate all cases.
Anyway - a simple measurement of the filament diameter about a meter in and then a few spool layers in gives me a good idea what to expect.
FilamentDiameter.JPG
True, I'm using Matter Hackers Pro PLA here, which seems to have very consistent diameter. That said, I was careful to measure the diameter at several places and input that value before extruder calibration.
Re: PLA Curling after Part Update
Thanks - I'll give that a go. If you rename the stl file as a txt file you'll be able to attach it.
regards,
Texy
It still gives me "invalid extension".
Oh. Well you can try it as a zip? Or faling that, others have zipped up gcode, rather than stl.....
Texy
Re: PLA Curling after Part Update
Looking at the last image of the printed part that is curling, the 3 perimeter layer 1 looks pretty nasty. It looks like the problem is a lot more basic than just curling. I've only seen that poor of an extrusion when my nozzle was jammed full of grit from printing glow materials.
A base layer should be smooth, no variation in extrusion width whatsoever. Sputtering, where the width is visibly changing, sticking, then not sticking, is a speed or extruder issue.
Clicking - where the extruder is not feeding properly - is another sign the nozzle is plugged up, not hot enough, or in some way not feeding properly.
I've experienced clicking for two reasons: idler tension was too tight; plugged nozzle. The plugged nozzle resulted in chewed filament - a clear definite notch when unloaded. The tension issue was just an occasional loud clicking. I resolved the tension click by fully releasing the two tensioner screws - then tightening them until I felt them engage the spring, then added a single turn. The tips of the screws barely project out of the extruder, maybe 1/16".
The plugged nozzle clicking was pretty obvious, ground up filament everywhere plus the sputtering layer one I was experiencing. Looked a lot like the first layer in the photo. It took several attempts to clear the plug - two cold pulls following a few 285 boil outs.
I have also found measuring the first layer helps. Lay down a Layer 1 Cal, and take a micrometer to the print. If it is around 0.007 to 0.008 thickness, you are good to go. Otherwise, adjust the Z-offset accordingly. Another method that worked for me is to print a large object layer 1, and when pulling it up if the strands separate like harp strings you need to adjust. The layer strands need to come up as one piece. I used Meshmixer to create a 4" diameter cylinder ... and ran it thru Slic3r ... and adjust while printing the first layer.
Re: PLA Curling after Part Update
Thanks - I'll give that a go. If you rename the stl file as a txt file you'll be able to attach it.
regards,
Texy
It still gives me "invalid extension".
Oh. Well you can try it as a zip? Or faling that, others have zipped up gcode, rather than stl.....
Texy
Re: PLA Curling after Part Update
Looking at the last image of the printed part that is curling, the 3 perimeter layer 1 looks pretty nasty. It looks like the problem is a lot more basic than just curling. I've only seen that poor of an extrusion when my nozzle was jammed full of grit from printing glow materials.
A base layer should be smooth, no variation in extrusion width whatsoever. Sputtering, where the width is visibly changing, sticking, then not sticking, is a speed or extruder issue.
Clicking - where the extruder is not feeding properly - is another sign the nozzle is plugged up, not hot enough, or in some way not feeding properly.
I've experienced clicking for two reasons: idler tension was too tight; plugged nozzle. The plugged nozzle resulted in chewed filament - a clear definite notch when unloaded. The tension issue was just an occasional loud clicking. I resolved the tension click by fully releasing the two tensioner screws - then tightening them until I felt them engage the spring, then added a single turn. The tips of the screws barely project out of the extruder, maybe 1/16".
The plugged nozzle clicking was pretty obvious, ground up filament everywhere plus the sputtering layer one I was experiencing. Looked a lot like the first layer in the photo. It took several attempts to clear the plug - two cold pulls following a few 285 boil outs.
I have also found measuring the first layer helps. Lay down a Layer 1 Cal, and take a micrometer to the print. If it is around 0.007 to 0.008 thickness, you are good to go. Otherwise, adjust the Z-offset accordingly. Another method that worked for me is to print a large object layer 1, and when pulling it up if the strands separate like harp strings you need to adjust. The layer strands need to come up as one piece. I used Meshmixer to create a 4" diameter cylinder ... and ran it thru Slic3r ... and adjust while printing the first layer.
Layer_1_Plane.zip
Thanks for this. I did also disassemble the hotend and although I am fairly certain the nozzle is completely clear, I did make certain the two tensioner screws are just engaging. Further, I noticed the axle for the pully on the piece that swings up was not centered - perhaps that gear was slipping. Anyway, with my last print I had to curling or clicking.