RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
Does this mean anything to anyone. Here is a gcode comparison Of QIDI Slicer and Prusa. I can see differences but I have not delved into gcode so I do not know what it means. The obvious difference to me is the WIDTH for Prusa and that it fluctuates. I simply scrolled to the middle area and picked a spot.
Who is the gcode Whisperer?
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
You are probably using arachne as the slicing engine in PS, which dynamically adjusts width. The old method is called classic and uses fixed widths as designated in the print settings.
No idea for Qidi slicer. Again screen caps are of very limited use. Even if we had the 2 gcode files it would be limited due to the difficulty in parsing it, especially comparing the gcode output of 2 different slicers, they are always going to be different. It's why we ask for projects as every setting is there to see and can be checked. At least the prusa output would be. The prusa gcode is more verbose which is why there are comments in there. The qidi widths could also be changing, but its a lot harder to tell.
Looks like the qidi output is also using absolute extrusion values, the PS output looks like its using relative extrusion. That's a fundamental difference right there. Beyond that its back to guesses.
Again I reiterate my suggestion to get something non proprietary that also has the same problem when generated from the 2 slicers, and that you are willing to post so we can do a like for like on the gcode and also to check the settings on the prusa project. Maybe you could cut your object down to leave the difficult area, save the stl and use that in both slicers. A smaller section would also print quicker for test purposes.
RE:
Again I reiterate. I keep saying this forum will not post my files. I've tried again and again and again and again and again.
I can not share a file because this forum will not accept them.
Ugghhh ya that is what I did and do. That is why you see just a portion of the model in a previous post. I tried to send the file but, did I mention, this forum will not take my files.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
You are zipping up the files first aren't you ? You HAVE to or it just wont attach. Once zipped no one else is having trouble so.....
What steps are you using ? To attach a single file just reply and then use the Attach File "Choose File" button located to the bottom left of the reply field. For a single file do not use Add Media. And again it must be zipped.
I agree the forum is clunky but it DOES work if you follow all the steps.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
Yup, Simply compress the file into zip then attach that file. That is what I am doing.
Dude, I'm kind of special like that. I always experience things others do not. Not an exaggeration. I'd say an even 50% of the things I get are already broke or break just after warranty. I used to get the wrong order at restaurants all the time. Could be something I'm doing wrong but someone put a curse on me years ago is all I can figure.
Brilliant too that we only get 1 min to edit our posts.
So, Screenshots can't be that useless. You pointed out a fundamental difference and fundamental differences are a big deal where I come from.
Ya, thats what I thought. Prusa is standing around bullshitting between layers rather than concentrating on doing the job. Verbose you say.
You also say that I might be using Arachne for PS which I am. I thought of changing that but that is one thing I haven't tried since it is claimed it improves strength.
I assume QIDI is using Arachne but I can not find that information.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
Prusa verbose are comments, they make no difference to the printer, they are skipped. They do help make it slightly more readable though to a human. Also its an option, it can be turned off.
I have also never seen anyone say Arachne makes stronger prints. If anything its the opposite. There are several reports of gaps between walls when slicing with arachne. The extent of that does seem to be printer dependent though.
Sounds like you need to visit a friendly gypsy.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
https://all3dp.com/2/cura-arachne-superslicer-prusaslicer-explained/
RE:
@kotaztrafee
First off don't use the Attach file, it doesn't work half the time for me either. Use the [Add Media] button at the top, click on it drag the zipped file into the open window it creates and drop it in. with the file selected click insert into post. done.
Now I would like to suggest a product to you that will not brake and prints solid, it's called NinjaTek Armadillo. It's crazy strong UV proof and prints great, it's actully a TPU product at its bbase but is not flexible with a very hard shore 75D, with very good abrasion resistance.
https://ninjatek.com/shop/armadillo/
Good Luck,
RE:
File removed by request of poster... (Joan Tabb, Moderator)
Did it work?
Very interesting about the filament recommendation. definitely will check it out!
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
😉 It did.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
Prusa verbose are comments, they make no difference to the printer, they are skipped. They do help make it slightly more readable though to a human. Also its an option, it can be turned off.
I have also never seen anyone say Arachne makes stronger prints. If anything its the opposite. There are several reports of gaps between walls when slicing with arachne. The extent of that does seem to be printer dependent though.
Sounds like you need to visit a friendly gypsy.
I think Arachine can make better detail in some instances because of the variable extrusion width, whereas in classic the extrusion width is fixed and is you had an area that didn't divide equally into your extrusion width then you either ended up with a gap or a section wider than designed.
I've noticed with gears in particular that Arachine does some weird stuff and you can see it in the sliced preview.
I use Arachine 98% of the time without issue, but there have been a few instances where classic worked better.
Seems like there is a setting in the print settings for perimeter overlap that you can set as a percentage. I'll have to look for it again next time I'm at the computer.
RE:
I sliced in Classic and didn't even try to print it. No matter what Line Width or Layer Height there were large gaps everywhere. It was terrible and didn't even give me all my perimeters. I suspect you just got it backwards Noephyl. It happens.
I think it was Neophyl talking about a perimeter overlap. I'll look too. But, I feel like I've looked at everything.
Is that they way it used to be?!
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
The reason you have the gaps when switching to Classic is Gap fill is not enabled. You have to tick the Gap fill tickbox (Print Settings>Layers & Perimeters>Advanced>Fill Gaps) AND also change the gap fill speed from the zero its set at (Print Settings>Speed>Speed for Print Moves>Gap fill).
If you also fill in a density value for your filament profile (ASA is usually between 1 and 1.24) then when you slice PS will also be able to display the weight of plastic it thinks it is using.
There is a perimeter/infill overlap percentage but not one for perimeter<>perimeter overlap. Something which PS could benefit from as it is sometimes useful to use in SuSi which has it.
I don't think the low value used for perimeter-Infill overlap here of 5% makes too much difference though as there is not a lot of actual infill, its mainly perimeters
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
I will take your suggestions, print a test and get back to you tomorrow.
Thanks!
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
Do you have a Patent for the Grippy Ippy? If not have you thought about selling it on Printables? That would be a cheap way to get some protection from the Creative Commons.
A friend of mine uses Etsy to help drive traffic to her website. The problem with websites is getting people to the website. Etsy and Printables might help you with that and of course going to fishing swap meets and trade shows. It might also sell well with the guys running Charter Boats.
You have a boat? Pictures?
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
- I have considered those options and others like shopify. They all have their different nuances. Not sure what you mean by Printables providing some protection from Creative Commons.
- Just going to start out going boat to boat and fishing shop to shop. I presented a prototype to shops two years ago and got some encouraging feedback.
- Yea, ideally I would like to do trade shows but they are expensive.
- I seem to keep getting suggestions to give them away.
- Ya charter boats, if they don't think it's stupid. It will be advertised as good for kids, handicap and weaker people. But I'm a big guy and I feel a need for it, so.
To be perfectly honest I'm too old to start a business and I do not want alllllllllll the headaches. I've contacted all the fishing industry manufacturers a couple years ago but none were interested. If I can show some sales and interest in the Grippy Ippy maybe one will reconsider. Like at a trade show as you point out. Shark Tank for example do not want start up businesses, they want already profitable businesses. Hell maybe they will just knock it off patent or not. But if someone does that it means the Grippy Ippy is successful. I've invented many things over the years but was never able to take them to the next levels. Three years ago I got enough money to get a printer and some other things fell in line since then that it seems like Devine interventions that I am guided to persist with Grippy Ippy.
Does this video play for you? It has copyright music in it so it might be muted for you.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
You can get more info here. Every model on Printables uses it.
I like the AC/DC music in the background!! Only watched a few minutes I’ll try and watch the rest when I get some free time.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
I can't believe this and my mothers NASCAR race still allow the music. My videos are like music videos. I edit the video to fit the music and vise versa. Hard to believe it was that long ago.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
Better but not good enough.
The reason you have the gaps when switching to Classic is Gap fill is not enabled. You have to tick the Gap fill tickbox (Print Settings>Layers & Perimeters>Advanced>Fill Gaps) AND also change the gap fill speed from the zero its set at (Print Settings>Speed>Speed for Print Moves>Gap fill).
If you also fill in a density value for your filament profile (ASA is usually between 1 and 1.24) then when you slice PS will also be able to display the weight of plastic it thinks it is using.
In CLASSIC mode:
- I checked the Gaps Fill and could see in the slice that it was definitely filling gaps.
- I gave Gap Speed a Values of 50.
- But I left the filament Density at zero by mistake.
The result was seeming stronger but still broke.
- I then did a print with the Filament Density set to 1.1 for ASA
Definitely stronger in one twisting direction but in the other direction it broke. I thought it was solved. I again tested the QIDI sliced print and it did not break using the same force and method.
I realized many moons ago that absolutely everything in life is a compromise and nothing is perfect.
My Goal Here was to try and get Prusa slicer to give me the strength results of QIDI slicer while providing for better definition text at the bottom using Custom Layer Height, that I think is great.
This would allow me to knock off 40 minutes of print time by having the 0.16 LH at the bottom and 0.3 LH the rest of the way up. But the strength though at least twice as good still is not as strong.
Even if the strength was as strong I now have a different problem with Gaps Fill because I am getting way too many travels. I looked to see if there is a setting for the size of gaps to fill and I tried a few settings but nothing I tried reduced the travels. I even made different size and shape dots but the extra travel in Classic is costing way too much print time. I tried different Line Widths too. All the way up to 0.7 but still, in Classic, the travels are too many.
So, this is where I sit in this compromise of life:
- With QIDI at 0.3:LH all the way I get the strength with poor text in about 2:20.
- With QIDI at 0.22LH I get the strength with good text and better resolution throughout the model in about 3:00.
- With Prusa at 0.16 LH on bottom & 0.3LH the rest, I get poor strength and good text with SPSIC in about 3:20.
I could get a better time with 0.22 on the bottom so we could knock off about 10minutes so say 3:10
But, not good strength.
So, the compromise is that I will have my text (and the whole model) printed at 0.22LH and not 0.16 for slightly less crispness but good strength, let's say, in about the same time as Prusa using the Custom Layer Height.
Also with Prusa I have a harder time with bed adhesion.
So, I think I'm going to stop beating a dead horse before it kills me and just use the QIDI Print Slicer.
You guys were awesome in helping me but I think unless there is some fantastical developments we can stop letting this keep us up at night. LOL
Sincerely,
Joe
GrippyIppy.com in about a month I hope.
RE: Improving Strength of PrusaSlicer
Dude, I'm kind of special like that. I always experience things others do not. Not an exaggeration. I'd say an even 50% of the things I get are already broke or break just after warranty. I used to get the wrong order at restaurants all the time. Could be something I'm doing wrong but someone put a curse on me years ago is all I can figure.
I think Apple TVs film ‘Luck’ might hold the secret to your unluckiness…
In all seriousness though it’s a good film. I also get a fair number of broken things when ordering. For example, three fridges was how many we bought before we got one that worked properly! Nice way to try before you by though so you can change model if you want to with free returns - but a real PIA.