Prusa3D Forum - Recent Topics

Bed adhesion and Z offset calibration concerns.

CasualJay — Fri, 22 May 2026 16:47:46 +0000

I have a Prusa MK3S+R and I am having a difficult time after getting a new print sheet (link below) and after washing it with IPA. On paper when I ran the Z offset first layer calibration (unsuccessfully several times) everything seemed fine until I attempted to print a few layers and I was greeted by this warped output. My Z offset is set to 0.950, in the Z offset calibration that was the best result that stuck to the sheet well and did not create a mess.

https://www.amazon.com/UKIAF-254x241mm-Textured-Printers-Dual-Sided/dp/B0FD8GY6YB/ref=rvi_d_sccl_17/142-0321790-7939369?pd_rd_w=1T2Hv&content-id=amzn1.sym.f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pf_rd_p=f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pf_rd_r=KSHBQEC64M12Z5BPJ3A9&pd_rd_wg=NAHBl&pd_rd_r=dfc1fc2b-ea4a-40d9-a809-66d3639559f4&pd_rd_i=B0FD8GY6YB&th=1

The reason I'm on this journey at all is because the first layer on the old sheet and with the old settings was streaky at the print bed and the layers were rough.

I am trying to figure out if it is a component that needs to be replaced or is there a calibration I am missing that I need to undergo to get this operational again.

Below are some pictures that might help.

Printing direct from USS Drybox on Core One+

nurdok — Fri, 22 May 2026 12:54:06 +0000

Running the Prusa USS Drybox on my Core One+ and wanted to share early experience plus two open questions.

The box has an opening that fits either the bare filament or a PTFE tube. I tried printing with the filament sticking out directly (no tube) on a 5h print — worked perfectly, and the internal humidity sensor read 10% both before and after. I'm wondering if I actually need to use a PTFE tube for this connection or can I just use it as it is. The filament touches the drybox and bends a bit in its route to the printer. I thought it would be a problem but it seems to work fine (with PLA):

My big problem is unloading. The Core One has a long filament buffer from the filament entrance to the extruder, so there's a lot of buffer to pull out when unloading filament. Since the spool sits inside the sealed box, I can't rewind the slack back onto the roll, so I'm left with a long length of filament hanging out with nowhere to go (photo below). What's the best way to deal with this?

I haven't printed the official PTFE tube solution yet — but as far as I can tell it only protects the filament from being exposed to humidity during feeding and doesn't help the unloading problem. Am I missing something, or is there a trick to this?

Print head drove in to heatbed gauging the heatbed and sheering off the print nozzle. Printer destroyed itself. What now?

lumac — Fri, 22 May 2026 12:19:53 +0000

I have had a core one for a year and it’s been good. My son uses it mostly. While I was out of town on work he printed something from printable and found the printer with the door open, print sheet half way out the door and the hot end dug in to the heat bed. The nozzle is sheered off. I’ve replaced the nozzle but the heatbed has deep gauges in it. The printer will turn on but we get an error code that the heatbed is overcurrent.

why did the printer destroy itself after one year of regular use?

what now?

I want a new printer or my money back.

Unable to view layer because of massive print head obstruction

Malvineous — Fri, 22 May 2026 09:43:38 +0000

I'm trying to examine a single layer to see how it will print, and when I used to do this I got a nice little small image for the print head so I could easily see where it was up to.

I just went to do it again and now the whole view is completely blocked by an enormous render of the whole print head, completely blocking the view of what's actually happening!

How do I get the old view back where I can actually see the lines being printed? I know what my print head looks like, I don't need to see a render of it! I can't see any layer lines with that monstrosity blocking the view.

I've just spent an hour digging through all the options with no luck, and I was even desperate enough to ask AI which wasted a good 15 minutes before it admitted to me it was giving me instructions for a completely different program even though I told it I was using PrusaSlicer.

878d6e1e-screenshot.png

Different nozzle size for multitool Prusa XL

Enrico Michael — Fri, 22 May 2026 08:18:13 +0000

I have a Prusa XL 2T. I recently bought a 0.6 mm ObXidian Nextruder nozzle and installed it on the first toolhead. The second toolhead is still using the original 0.4 mm brass nozzle.

Does anybody know how to set up different extrusion widths for each tool? I updated PrusaSlicer to the latest version (2.9.5), but I believe it only allows a single extrusion width setting for all tools.

Supported filaments

Kevin S — Fri, 22 May 2026 06:43:58 +0000

Does Prusa support printing peba, morphlex, PLA-HR, If so, what settings (printing speed, temps, and other details) would work best?

Layer shifting help

Ligyron — Fri, 22 May 2026 01:09:10 +0000

I have tried this print twice with the same result. the long walls of the box show layer shifting for half the height of the print then revert to normal. The shorter walls are fine. I have never had this happen before.

Would anyone have an explanation and possible solution.

I am using a Prusa Mk.3.5s with updated firmware.

a7212148-img_5778.JPG