Fusion360 - General discussion, announcements and releases

RE: Fusion360

Neophyl — Sun, 02 Feb 2025 00:23:53 +0000

As I mentioned in my previous post, I used a Natural PLA, made by 3DQF. As I had some and your profile said it was PLA. https://www.3dqf.co.uk/product-page/naked-pla1-75mm-uk-made-3d-printer-filament to be specific. But as miroslav.h4 says choosing a less demanding material such as petg would help. Petg is pretty resistant to solvents but of course it depends on your specific use case.

I don't have any PP to play with as I have no use for it currently but I would certainly experiment with using much less cooling and also the external perimeter first option. This geometry having no overhangs makes having customise settings possible and you can get away with far less cooling than on other items. Will also have the side effect of increasing your layer bonding. Normally PLA uses 100% fan but as you can see even when I used 30% fan the part came out fine.

Posted by: @busie-mokoena
thank you for this, your devices looks perfect. i am using PP filament and may i please know what you used with yours?. I also need my device to be transparent that's the reason for the PP. i will have a look on your settings thank you. i am using MK3

RE: Fusion360

Busie Mokoena — Sat, 01 Feb 2025 10:33:39 +0000

i get that a lot actually. it is a project i am working on, PP is suitable for the solvents i will be extracting with the device. the other filaments deteriorate and might cause the device to leak or worse give me impurities

RE: Fusion360

miroslav.h4 — Sat, 01 Feb 2025 10:29:32 +0000

That would explain most of the problems. PP tends to curl if it is not printed in a closed cover. And what led you to choose PP? There are other less demanding transparent materials that could be suitable for use. Not only PP but also PLA, PETG and PCTG and others are produced as transparent. These are materials that are easier to print without major problems.

RE: Fusion360

Busie Mokoena — Sat, 01 Feb 2025 10:15:59 +0000

thank you for this, your devices looks perfect. i am using PP filament and may i please know what you used with yours?. I also need my device to be transparent that's the reason for the PP. i will have a look on your settings thank you. i am using MK3

RE: Fusion360

Busie Mokoena — Sat, 01 Feb 2025 10:11:49 +0000

sorry i sent 2 files one was a GCODE as was requested and theres a second STL file i shared from fusion. thats how i save the files. i realised the problem is not from FUSION but from prusa as i sliced it. i keep changing settings on prusa so i can better find commands that will print my device nicely.

RE: Fusion360

Busie Mokoena — Sat, 01 Feb 2025 10:07:54 +0000

sorry iam using polypropylene (PP) to print the reason i chose generic PLA is because it makes my prints look better. but the file I sent you has ultrafuse PP and I changed back to PLA because I'm realising the latter setting is an issue for my prints.

RE: Fusion360

miroslav.h4 — Sat, 01 Feb 2025 07:45:03 +0000

To @neophyl: I tried the printing as well. On MK4S, because I don't own MK3. On the basic settings for PLA, it printed without any problems and fine. I also tried it with PETG due to the tightness of the internal channels and again without any problems. Perhaps the effort to tighten the ducts led @busie-mokoena to those high temperatures for PLA. That @crab: The Y-shaped channels in the print are probably there as some kind of air or water (oil) distribution, when Festo fittings with hoses come to screw into the threaded holes. All this should be explained by @busie-mokoena.

RE: Fusion360

Neophyl — Fri, 31 Jan 2025 21:36:44 +0000

Ok my prints finished now. I updated your project with my printer profile and also with a filament profile suited for the natural pla I used (a 3dqf roll), with reduced cooling as I suggested previously, with my steel nozzle setup the temps are 230.
Also changed a bunch of parameters in your print profile too, such as outer perimeters first as there's no overhangs to cause a problem with that setting.

I had zero issues. The walls are as straight as they can be, put up against a ruler. Also no warping, even with zero brim. Looks quite interesting when held up to the light with the channels in it and the crosshatch layers in the translucent natural pla.

Hopefully you can see that the result is pretty good

Attached the project file. You should just be able to change the printer back to yours. Examine the settings used and if you have any questions please ask.

8d9eb344-16-10-2024-1.1mm-v1_neo.zip

RE:

Crab — Fri, 31 Jan 2025 21:12:20 +0000

You posted a GCODE file rather than a Fusion 360 file.. so am wondering where you actually got the model.. A fusion user would know how to export a Fusion file or a STEP. But as Neophyl says the settings are not for PLA.. but for a different plastic.. so not sure what you are doing. That model should work fine when using PLA. There is an interesting channel in the body in the shape of a "Y" which looks like you add some rods and then cover up. But there is no reason for layer shifting that I can see. What printer are you using and is this a printer that has regularly printed calibrated models correctly? or maybe this is a printer you haven't used before? You will not need that brim as you have huge flat base.

Posted by: @busie-mokoena

Hey guys, I am not sure if I might get help, but below, I have attached a device I am working on. i used fusion360 to design it but when printing I encounter problems where the top layers are shifting and I don't know why. because when I design it in fusion the top part automatically combines with the bottom part and it is not like I have different bodies please help.

RE: Fusion360

Neophyl — Fri, 31 Jan 2025 19:18:28 +0000

Can I clarify a few points with your project ?

Firstly what material are you printing with exactly ? The profile says Generic PLA(Modified) Is it really PLA ? If so your temps are too high. A bed temp of 80 degrees is above the vicat temp of pla, meaning the bed is enough to keep the plastic soft. Also 240 is high for PLA, very high. I use a steel nozzle x on my mk3 which needs hotter temps and I only use 230 for pla. So clarifying your filament is important.

Also if you are printing on a Mk3 like the project profile has then there's no way a part that size out of PLA needs a brim, not unless your first layer adhesion is really bad. And there's zero reason on a mk3 for it to be that bad if you have the plater properly cleaned and the live z dialled in correctly. If you were printing out of ABS I could see the need maybe but not for PLA.

Looking at your pic I'm wondering if this is a cooling /filament contractions where the top solid layers issue, basically the same as the Benchy hull line writ large. With the amount of top/bottom layers the infill % is irrelevant as there isnt any room for sparse infill anyway but that just means either way that the part is solid. That is going to accentuate any issues with your filament tuning, over extrusion especially as any 'extra' wont have anywhere to go. The solid mass of VERY hot plastic will also exaggerate the shrinkage effect.

Personally I would print it cooler and reduce fan speed dramatically, from 100% to around 20%. There's no need with this geometry for masses of cooling as there's almost no overhangs, its just up/down except for the threads.
I'd also switch to classic slicing mode to take any arachne adjustment of extrusion width out of contention.

I've got some natural PLA, so I'll give this a print with something close to my normal settings and see what I get.