fixing errors  

RE: fixing errors

It is a bit difficult to follow your question. Could you please rephrase it and please try to include some photos. Which sort of errors are you having? Is the printer not printing after the 3rd layer or is it something else? 

RE: fixing errors

RE: fixing errors

i will reprint tomorrow and post a picture of that. but it starts to pull up the layers. I attached a picture of the slicer saying i have open ends and my filament settings

RE: fixing errors

The answer used to be Netfabb but their desktop software is no longer supported, and their web client has been shut down. Also, the excellent Microsoft online repair tool has been shut down (presumably because it was using Netfabb in the backend). The only online option I am aware of at this point is https://formware.co/OnlineStlRepair. Desktop options include the STL repair functions in Blender, FreeCad, Meshmixer, or Fusion 360. Your mileage may vary to what extend they can fix any given model. Another option I haven't tried for a while since I ditched my last Windows machine is Microsoft's 3D Builder.

RE: fixing errors

@fuchsr

I've never used netfab or the Microsoft repair tool, but I am curious, why is netfab shutting down or what the change is related to?

RE: fixing errors

Netfabb was acquired by Autodesk in 2015. Initially they continued to offer a free online service but a while back it was discontinued and its functionality integrated into Fusion 360. 

RE: fixing errors

RE: fixing errors

2 runs i tried today from the above project

RE: fixing errors

Where did you download the model from? I just downloaded it for the first time (from https://www.printables.com/model/63483-prusa-mini-base/files) and I don't see ANY errors in the left leg. Also, the file name I see in your picture (*.obj) looks suspicious. It should be an .stl file.

RE: fixing errors

same site I exported it to obj to set my filment settings that is when i got the errors

RE: fixing errors

I'm not tracking. You download the STL, load it into Prusaslicer, then adjust any settings, if needed. At no point in the process of slicing and printing an .STL is there any need to deal with an .obj file.

Now, having said that, I don't think that's causing your issues though.  This looks more like a badly adjusted Live Z (aka first layer calibration). Usually the friendly folks here like to see a picture of your first layer calibration and ideally an upload of your 3mf project file (which contains the STL model but also all your settings). 3mf files need to be compressed before they forum software will allow them for upload. 

If your first layer is bad, you may get holes or curling filament, on which the nozzle may get stuck on subsequent passes.

RE: fixing errors

the file name I see in your picture (*.obj) looks suspicious. It should be an .stl file.

I use .obj often for import, I find it superior to .stl (Cleaner mesh) there's more to it then that, but I'm keeping this simple. I also have a habit of removing the extensions from my files after I import them, it just becomes part of the Object or Part name.

RE: fixing errors

But you probably don't end up converting a perfectly fine STL into an OBJ with millions of errors 😇

RE: fixing errors

No I don't do that . I must have missed that part  of the thread. 🙄 😉

RE: fixing errors

was using slicer not sure what i did wrong

RE: fixing errors

downloading takes me to this when i go to open

RE: fixing errors

What have have downloaded is the pre-sliced gcode file. The idea is, you just copy it onto the USB stick, pop it into the printer, and print it directly, without having to go through a slicer. In theory it is optimized for printing on a Mini+, without the need to reslice.

IMHO, downloading and just printing gcode is rarely a good idea. If author wants to provide optimized settings, provide the 3MF file. What if you want to print this model in a color for which there's no Prusament and the brand you have needs to be printed at a different temperature, more slowly, whatever.  With the 3mf, you can still make adjustments for filaments that may need special attention. With the gcode file you're more or less stuck, unless you want to dive into editing the gcode or manually adjust settings from the LCD during the print. 

In this case, I downloaded the STL for the Rear Right Leg. Without any optimization, just by using my default 0.2mm profile (which uses 15% gyroid infill and 3 perimeters, I can bring the time required to print this down by 5 hours. If I printed this myself, I would probably print it at 0.3mm layer height, and/or use a 0.6 mm nozzle, which should bring it down even more.

Just to be clear. In this case, maybe the author has indeed made some specific important adjustments (e.g., height range modifiers) that add 5 hours, but it's impossible (or rather, impracticable) to see this from the gcode file. Which brings me back to my previous point about wishing authors would provide 3mf, not gcode files.

Anywho, if you download the gcode files, print them directly, don't go to Prusaslicer, do not collect $200. In this case, if you still see issues with your first layer(s), we're probably looking at something not model related (my money is still on a live Z calibration issue or a steel sheet that needs a good cleanse with hot water and soap). 

RE: fixing errors

have re done my z and washed the plate with dawn today so may try again tomorrow to late to start one now would not be able to watch first few layers. I did try running at 30% speed and 80 flow made it a bit further

RE: fixing errors

I assume petg and pla need different z height