Filament settings
I am going to print using 3DTech CarbonX ASA+CF. 3DTech gives a nozzle temperature range and a bed temp range.
Prusa Slicer's filament form has Nozzle temp first layer and other layers, same for bed temperature. And chamber nominal and minimal.
Do I use the highest temps given by 3DTech or some mix? How am I to know which to use? Thank you,
Prusa Core One
RE: Filament settings
Do I use the highest temps given by 3DTech or some mix? How am I to know which to use? Thank you,
It really depends on what kind of nozzle you plan to use. So my first question is what nozzle are you using?
Whenever I print a filament for the first time, I calibrate it first. I start by printing a temperature tower then do an extrusion test followed by pressure advance, max volumetric flow and finally shrinkage. If you are just printing simple parts and nothing large, just go down the middle. Set the nozzle temp to 245°, the bed to 100° and the chamber to 55°.
Also for max volumetric flow, find out the print speed ranges. For example if it's 50-100mm/s then start with 75mm/s. If you are using 0.4mm nozzle and 0.20mm layer height, then set the max flow to: 7 mm^3/s (75 * 0.45 * 0.2) The 0.45 is the extrusion width and the 0.2 is the layer height. The only way to know for sure is to print a volumetric flow test.
RE: Filament settings
I have used 3DTech CarbonX ASA+CF and like it. Don't have the info on hand but I am using a steel nozzle which I purchased just for this filament.
Again, hyiger is correct. You have to calibrate the filament to your printer. I have a differhyigerent process that works for me but I am going to look at hyiger's process and see if I can get my prints even better. I am printing with a MK3s+. Once calibrated, I found it was very accurate. I use 3DLac on a satin sheet.
RE: Filament settings
HF0.4 -- is that a hardened nozzle? If not, you need one for anything with CF.
Also, sometimes the data sheets are out of sync with what people actually use. I'm working on my first prints with CarbonX PA6-CF G3. The 3DXTech site says extruder temp 240-270C, but their own TDS data used 275C. The Bambu profiles they link to all have 290C nozzle temps, and a similar % difference in bed temps. These are engineering filaments, so it seems most users will be professionals doing their own testing and not publishing their data. I think this is why it's easier to find presets for hobbyist filaments.
RE: Filament settings
I made a mistake. The filament I am using is the 3DTech ASA (not CF). But my question is still relevant to the non-CF filament.
Prusa Core One
RE: Filament settings
Thanks for everyone's replies. Is this a good instruction for calibration? https://www.instructables.com/Perfect-Prints-the-Ultimate-Guide-to-Filament-Cali/
Prusa Core One
RE: Filament settings
Thanks everyone. Is this a good calibration instruction? Because IDK exactly how to do one. https://www.instructables.com/Perfect-Prints-the-Ultimate-Guide-to-Filament-Cali/
Prusa Core One
RE:
I made a mistake. The filament I am using is the 3DTech ASA (not CF). But my question is still relevant to the non-CF filament.
Again, I'm asking: What nozzle are you using?
Also, I wrote up a guide you can use: Calibrating Filament for Functional Prints
RE: Filament settings
@hyiger - I am using the 0.4mm CHT nozzle that came with the Core One. Thanks for the guide.
Prusa Core One
RE:
@hyiger - I am using the 0.4mm CHT nozzle that came with the Core One. Thanks for the guide.
OK, this is very much the wrong nozzle to use. The CHT nozzle will wear out and clog after only a few prints. For this type of filament you need to use a hardened standard flow nozzle. Since this filament is really for functional prints I would recommend getting a 0.6mm hardened nozzle. Obxidian is a good choice. If you are not budget conscience then get a Diamondback. It will last forever (in theory).
RE: Filament settings
do you have a link to the Diamondback?
- 1st "printer" TIKO 3D
- 2nd PRUSA i3 MK2S with MMU v1
- 3rd PRUSA i3 MK2S
- 4th PRUSA i3 MK3 with MMU v2- 5th PRUSA i3 MK4 (upgraded from MK3) with MMU v3 (upgraded from…
RE:
do you have a link to the Diamondback?
Searching for "diamondback nozzle":
RE: Filament settings
@hyiger why a .6 nozzle and not .4mm? Is this recommendation for ASA only or do you use .6 for most all filaments?
Prusa Core One
RE: Filament settings
The CHT nozzle will wear out and clog after only a few prints. For this type of filament you need to use a hardened standard flow nozzle.
But that applies only to fiber-loaded filaments, right? Not to the regular ASA which Phil currently uses (see his correction a few posts above).
RE:
The CHT nozzle will wear out and clog after only a few prints. For this type of filament you need to use a hardened standard flow nozzle.
But that applies only to fiber-loaded filaments, right? Not to the regular ASA which Phil currently uses (see his correction a few posts above).
Ah OK, I didn't see the correction. For regular ASA, a standard nozzle is fine but it will still eventually wear out more quickly than a hardened nozzle even for non-filled filaments. In general I only use hardened nozzles for everything.
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@hyiger why a .6 nozzle and not .4mm? Is this recommendation for ASA only or do you use .6 for most all filaments?
For functional prints, 0.6mm gives you better layer adhesion which translates into stronger prints as well as faster print time. No point to use 0.4mm if you don't require detail on a large print. As a very simplistic example, suppose you are printing a Core One purge bin. Even an 0.8mm nozzle is appropriate here.
RE: Filament settings
Thanks. I searched but didn't see the manufacturer or nextruder nozzles until your link.
Interesting and expensive. I've had a few nextruder (0.4 & 0.25) nozzles get blocked on me and and haven't been able to clear them... those were the standard ones. I'd hate to have one of those diamondback block on me and not be able to clear it.
May have to get where I used to work (still do consulting) buy a couple of the 0.6 nozzles for the XL 5T printer for when we print with PVDF.
do you have a link to the Diamondback?
Searching for "diamondback nozzle":
- 1st "printer" TIKO 3D
- 2nd PRUSA i3 MK2S with MMU v1
- 3rd PRUSA i3 MK2S
- 4th PRUSA i3 MK3 with MMU v2- 5th PRUSA i3 MK4 (upgraded from MK3) with MMU v3 (upgraded from…
RE: Filament settings
Interesting and expensive. I've had a few nextruder (0.4 & 0.25) nozzles get blocked on me and and haven't been able to clear them... those were the standard ones. I'd hate to have one of those diamondback block on me and not be able to clear it.
I had one clog on me once but it was my fault. I went from a 290° PPA-CF print and then tried to print PETG without first flushing the nozzle with cleaning filament.
Once the INDX kit arrives, I'll be selling my 0.4/0.6/0.8 Diamondback nozzles because they will not work with the INDX system.
RE: Filament settings
I have had very few clogs also. Most of mine have occurred when I change filaments or print something that is not dry.
Interesting and expensive. I've had a few nextruder (0.4 & 0.25) nozzles get blocked on me and and haven't been able to clear them... those were the standard ones. I'd hate to have one of those diamondback block on me and not be able to clear it.
I had one clog on me once but it was my fault. I went from a 290° PPA-CF print and then tried to print PETG without first flushing the nozzle with cleaning filament.
Once the INDX kit arrives, I'll be selling my 0.4/0.6/0.8 Diamondback nozzles because they will not work with the INDX system.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: Filament settings
I use standard flow Obxidian nozzles everywhere. Never had to replace any.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- https://foxrun3d.com/