Drybox closet DIY
Hello everyone, First, sorry for my poor english... not my native langage . I plan to make a closet for storing and drying my coils. I have several questions that come to mind, on the one hand on its structure and on the other hand on the desiccation function. I don't want a passive system so no need to tell me about desiccation bags.
Regarding its structure:
- Does the closet have to be perfectly airproof? Should I install seals or steam to limit the entry of humid air?
Regarding the “desiccant” function, I aim to create a “heated floor” using a ceramic heating lamp (example: zoomalia.com/animalerie/ampoule-chauffante-en-ceramique-reptilus-p-29966.html?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrYaArp7LgwMVrjgGAB3FqwXeEAQYASABEgKSNfD_BwE&fbclid=IwAR0fy2cYLyE9Z6Gjt17i5XHsIWghT5kNlpF84mCkTYjKz-Flcmqu5YwfPc0#l68190).
I will test the behavior of this type of equipment in the near future in order to establish the quantity of lamp necessary for my storage volume to maintain a constant internal temperature at 50/55°c (or more if ABS or ASA). Several questions relating to this subject:
- In order to maintain ambient air humidity below 20%, do I only have to maintain a constant temperature of 50/55°c and wait a defined period
- Should I think about an internal ventilation system? If so, should I carry it out on a closed system (refer to the question concerning the insulation of the furniture). Or on the contrary, should I instead create an air inlet/outlet system from (and to the outside).
- Should I also add a device dedicated to dehumidification action? Example, a dehumidifier?
I don't yet know enough about electronics to tinker with a system that is controlled and reacts according to the measured humidity. Maybe it will come one day (given the number of raspberries lying around the house). As you can see these are the beginnings but I will get started quickly, so I welcome any experiences or constructive criticism. Thanks in advance.
RE: Drybox closet DIY
About tightness: heating your filament to let water evaporate means you have to get rid of the water-loaded air. You need ventilation, preferably dry air in. If you use absorbent no ventilation is necessary, but of course you need to compensate for changes in air pressure and ambient temperature.
Warm air can contain more water than cold air. Absorbents do not work well under heat. Absorbents that can be regenerated, like in those car packs are heated to let the absorbed water evaporate.
You could choose however to ventilate your heated chamber trough an absorbent filter, so that the air is dried before it is lead into the heated chamber. This could be a rescue if the ambient conditions are already hot and humid.
For more understanding of conditions of air humidity you may want to check out Mollier Diagram.
RE: Drybox closet DIY
hi, first thanks for taking the time to respond.
If possible, I would prefer to have active dehydration rather than using silica bags.
I also understand that the air entering the closet must already be at 20% humidity before entering it. So I have to use a passive filter to filter out the humidity.
I am attaching a "diagram" created in a hurry to work with paint (the only drawing software at hand) representing the idea of the project with your insight. Sorry about your eyes.
What type of filter would be capable of doing this kind of filtration? Cabin filter for car?
Thank you again for your help
RE:
Most people do bug dryboxes from IKEA Samla and keep spools inside it, the box itself is sealed but with Bowden tubes to allow spools to unwind directly to the printer.
I guess more important is to dry the spool even in the food dehydrator if it is factory new for 6 to 10h (though had ok me that dried for 24h gave best results) and then put into the drybox and refresh them in the dehydrator again for 4h before use.
You don't need ventilation nor super airtight seal on the drybox. More important is to not open it if not needed so maybe better have smaller boxes that store filament and spools are used up evenly. If that box is empty then swap filaments or whole box with a untouched ones.
But if you want to print nylon then that's another sorry, you probably want to print directly from hot drybox after initial drying.
See my GitHub and printables.com for some 3d stuff that you may like.
RE: Drybox closet DIY
Most people do bug dryboxes from IKEA Samla and keep spools inside it, the box itself is sealed but with Bowden tubes to allow spools to unwind directly to the printer.
I guess more important is to dry the spool even in the food dehydrator if it is factory new for 6 to 10h (though had ok me that dried for 24h gave best results) and then put into the drybox and refresh them in the dehydrator again for 4h before use.
Good morning,I already know the technique with IKEA boxes but that's not at all what interests me.
I already have dryboxes for each of my printers to feed them with warm/dry filament but my garage where I print is at 10/15°C with humidity at 50/70%. I want a storage that prevents my coils from re-wetting when I don't use them for several days.
I think that at least internal ventilation in a closed circuit will help to distribute humidity within the volume.
Thanks again for your advice
You don't need ventilation nor super airtight seal on the drybox. More important is to not open it if not needed so maybe better have smaller boxes that store filament and spools are used up evenly. If that box is empty then swap filaments or whole box with a untouched ones.
But if you want to print nylon then that's another sorry, you probably want to print directly from hot drybox after initial drying.
RE: Drybox closet DIY
Adam Savage of mythbusters fame has a youtube video of building a drybox and printer stand. He puts a room dehumidifier in the box. I think you could do the same with a closet. 100% air tight would not be needed, just seal the door frame and at the floor with weather stripping.
RE: Drybox closet DIY
I have recently set up spool racks inside an old kitchen cupboard and put a small room compressor-type dehumidifier in there. Seems to work well. Although I think the dehumidifier is too big and uses more power than is required to do the job. Maybe a smaller non-compressor-type unit would be better.