Curling at the nozzel
So this has been an issue that drives me crazy. The filament curls as it comes out. Now I know it needs to be cleaned with a wire, I no longer have the wire that came with my printer. Whats the best approach to find a new wire and also, should I consider instaling a new 1.75 titanium heat break? I've read before the heat breaks can wear out.
RE: Curling at the nozzel
How would the heat break wear out? Filament never touches it. It has a PTFE lining which is replaceable.
The "wire" provided by Prusa was just an acupuncture needle. Amazon has a dandy cleaning kit which includes a bunch of needles and a really good pair of tweezers. Pick up some cleaning filament too. I have never used my needle.
RE: Curling at the nozzel
Actually, the PTFE tube stops after about 5mm from the top of the heatbreak: https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Document/206/.pdf
The filament is in contact with the metal of the heatbreak for approx. 17mm.
If you were to have worn out your heatbreak, you will be the first I have heard of, and some users have been printing many 10s' of rolls of filament through the same heatbreak.
If you have curling, try a cold pull to make sure nothing is stuck inside the nozzle, when clean after a cold pull, disassemble and inspect the bore.
It may be an idea to invest in a USB microscope if you really want to check thoroughly what is going on.
I use a usb microscope and edge light a piece of opaque plastic on which I place the nozzle, then adjust focus so you look down through the nozzle adjusting as you go to see all the way through (The focus is very narrow indeed so you will only see a small slice in focus so you need to adjust as you in effect look further down through the nozzle), you should see a perfectly clean round surface all along the full bore this way, and check around the nozzle opening carefully for wear and damage.
The edge lighting allows enough light to get in from underneath the nozzle to be able to see inside it.
If you really had the patience and nothing moved, you could take multiple pictures and using a piece of software, you could focus stack them and end up with one picture of the complete bore in focus.
The USB microscope is also useful to see what your first layer is like and whether the extrusions squish together properly or not, it's also interesting to see how corners can pull if your temperature and or K value is not quite right.
This is the one I use: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Microscope-MAOZUA-Handheld-Magnifier-Professional/dp/B012ZQELYC/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=5MP+USB+Microscope&qid=1576049602&sr=8-5
When I first started out and used a brass nozzle, I found PETG stuck to it even after cleaning with floss and doing cold pulls, nowadays I use nickel plated copper and no longer bother with brass.
Normal people believe that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Engineers believe that if it ain’t broke, it doesn’t have enough features yet.
RE: Curling at the nozzel
Try several cold pulls to clean filament path, there may be material stuck on walls of hot end. You can also try new nozzle, those are considered consumables as they wear out by use. Curling could mean that the hole is jagged or asymmetrical.
RE: Curling at the nozzel
Thank you for your reply and glad you mentioned that. I've done like 5 cold pulls so far. Same issues
RE: Curling at the nozzel
@insulationsystems-me
Just change the nozzle, they are cheap and it’s an easy process. Trying to trouble shoot a consumable item leads to headaches.
RE: Curling at the nozzel
@tony-s8
I was afraid of that.. I installed one of those ruby tips, not so cheap consumable.
RE: Curling at the nozzel
@insulationsystems-me
Oh, I assumed you have standard brass nozzle. Ruby tip should indeed last for much longer.
RE: Curling at the nozzel
Well Ruby also has some unfortunate downsides. It will chip.
Make sure you examine it under magnification, and look for any chips or cracks.
RE: Curling at the nozzel
@robert-rmm200
I'm starting to suspect that is what may of happened. I'll take it out and post my results!
RE: Curling at the nozzel
@insulationsystems-me
I use 0.4mm Olsson ruby nozzles on all of my machines(MK3S) and yes if you chip one the filament will tend to want to shoot out perpendicular to the hotend.
I have a NozzleX on my MK3S MMU2S set up and that nozzle has proven its worth so far, so there are other options out there than the ruby nozzle if price is an issue.
RE: Curling at the nozzel
@tony-s8
thats exactly what its doing.. I hadnt had it on there very long and hadnt used anything abrasive. But in reality, it never really seemed to work right when I first got it so it may of been a bad one.
RE: Curling at the nozzel
Abrasives are not the problem for ruby, after all it is one of strongest minerals on Earth. Impact is a problem though.
RE: Curling at the nozzel
FWIW, it is also not advised to use acupuncture needles on the ruby nozzles. Too easy to chip the ruby by bending the needle when inserted into the ruby tip.
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RE: Curling at the nozzel
True tungsten carbide is a good alternative - close to brass in thermal conductivity ans hardened steel in troughness. there are a couple of makers of solid carbide nozzles. I'm using one from spool3d.ca -- https://spool3d.ca/parts/spool3d-exclusives/nozzles/ the m6 one is a dropin replacement for the e3d v6
RE: Curling at the nozzel
@sembazuru
That's probably what I did.. I wouldnt of thought could of chipped it being sold as a destructable nozzel! lol
What is the best thing to use on clogs?
RE: Curling at the nozzel
@david-a66
Is it the one for $69 ?
RE: Curling at the nozzel
RE: Curling at the nozzel
True tungsten carbide is a good alternative - close to brass in thermal conductivity ans hardened steel in troughness. there are a couple of makers of solid carbide nozzles. I'm using one from spool3d.ca -- https://spool3d.ca/parts/spool3d-exclusives/nozzles/ the m6 one is a dropin replacement for the e3d v6
Yeah, I finally pulled the trigger on these. Remember, they are a Canadian company so those $ are CAD$. Do your monetary conversions appropriately (for example, as of the writing of this message, xe.com is reporting that $69CAD is $52.33USD).
I had picked up some MicroSwiss Ni-plated brass nozzles and tried to use ProtoPasta's advice of using z-hop to avoid the nozzle tip dragging across the polishing paper surface of HTPLA-CF. After printing all the extruder parts I checked my nozzle under a magnifying glass, and the flat of my nozzle tip is now brass colored...
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RE: Curling at the nozzel
@sembazuru
That's probably what I did.. I wouldnt of thought could of chipped it being sold as a destructable nozzel! lol
What is the best thing to use on clogs?
I haven't had a fully blocking clog yet, but for normal cleaning and PM I use this eSun cleaning filament (non affiliate AmazonUS link). I both purge and cold pull with that stuff. I also use this Filament Dust Filter (Thingiverse link) to hold sponge onto my filament to try to mitigate dragging dust down into my extruder.
See my (limited) designs on:
Printables - https://www.printables.com/@Sembazuru
Thingiverse - https://www.thingiverse.com/Sembazuru/designs