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OK Jack
(@ok-jack)
New Member
Bed Adhesion...

Hi Guys...

I'm having a problem that maybe you have an answer for...

I'm trying to print a cylindrical threaded cap that has a outer and inner cylinder incorporated...

The outer cylinder is properly "brimmed", but the inside cylinder is not, and so it breaks lose from the deck during printing...

Strangely, it works for the "short" cap (33mm high), but not the "long" cap (75mm high)...

Is there a method for me to manually add a brim for the inner cylinder, or do I have to resort to build 4 "bridges" to attach to the outer cylinder, so the inner cylinder  doesn't move ???

Is there a fix for my dilemma ???

Thanks in advance...

TIA...

Posted : 08/03/2024 8:00 pm
JoanTabb
(@joantabb)
Veteran Member Moderator
RE: Bed Adhesion...

Have you tried Outer and Inner Brim?

regards Joan

I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK

Posted : 08/03/2024 10:45 pm
OK Jack
(@ok-jack)
New Member
Topic starter answered:
RE:

No I haven't... (I'm very new to the 3D printing world !!!)...

I'll find it and give it a try...

Thanks Joan...

Posted : 09/03/2024 1:51 am
OK Jack
(@ok-jack)
New Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: Bed Adhesion...

It worked !!! I'm a happy camper !!!

Thanks again Joan for your help, and to all the talent at Prusa...

Rick...

 

Posted : 09/03/2024 2:44 pm
sngx1275
(@sngx1275)
Active Member
RE:

Another option (although inner brim is the best choice), would be to right click on your object name on the right side of the slicer and add part, then make it bigger than your inner cylinder to act as a brim for it, then shrink it down to whatever z height you need for brim (0.2mm).  You'll also need to center up a negative volume part too so the bottom isn't entirely brim.  

I wouldn't do it this way because Joan's suggestion is better, but mentioned since you stated you are new to 3d printing, and I wanted to place the thought in your head that you can add and remove areas within the slicer.  Very useful for hiding magnets inside prints.

 

Another thought is be sure you have a really clean surface, also worth temp gunning your bed to see if it really is the temp it should be.  With some of my sheets I have to set bed temp to 72 to get 60.

This post was modified 8 months ago by sngx1275
Posted : 09/03/2024 4:18 pm
EastMemphis
(@eastmemphis)
Estimable Member
RE: Bed Adhesion...

The reason for failed adhesion on a tall tower vs. a short one is the moment of inertia. The moment is defined at the "the product of mass of section and the square of the distance between the reference axis". To put it another way, the farther the force is away from the base, the stronger the force on the base. It's leverage.

Strangely, it works for the "short" cap (33mm high), but not the "long" cap (75mm high)...

 

 

Printables: https://www.printables.com/@EastMemphis_905139/models

Posted : 09/03/2024 5:54 pm
OK Jack
(@ok-jack)
New Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: Bed Adhesion...

Thanks you guys for your added comments...

Both are tough to figure out at my level of expertise, but I'll revist them as I become more experianced...

Cheers...

Rick...

Posted : 10/03/2024 5:34 pm
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