Adding a switch to MMU2S power cable to turn it off?
I don't use the mmu2s frequently, and disconnect the power cable from the board when not in use so I can use my mk3s in standard mode without dealing with the mmu2 loading BS.
I want to add a switch to the power cable to make this easier. I don't know much about wiring though.
The mmu2s power cable has 2 hots and 2 negs (4 wires), so I guess I'd need a 24v switch with 8 pins? Cant seem to find any though, they come 4 or 5 pin max.
Anyone have any ideas?
RE: Adding a switch to MMU2S power cable to turn it off?
I can't whole-heartily endorse this, but I've never had any problems with how I go about disabling the MMU (for like flexible prints). Instead of dealing with all that, (having to install a switch or fuss with getting power cables re-attached) just pull off the signal cable that goes on the header above the pinda probe header on the einsy board... Just make sure when you go to use MMU again, the brown wire is on the left-most side (above white wire of pinda probe), Easy-peasy! All you have to do it open einsy door, pull the cable, and shut it, and vise-versa to re-attatch.
RE: Adding a switch to MMU2S power cable to turn it off?
I forgot to add this also somewhat acts like a switch, because with that signal cable unplugged, the MMU doesn't even power on... And since it's only a dupont like connector, all it does is push on or pull off, no fussing with unscrewing wire terminals.
RE: Adding a switch to MMU2S power cable to turn it off?
I don't use the mmu2s frequently, and disconnect the power cable from the board when not in use so I can use my mk3s in standard mode without dealing with the mmu2 loading BS.
I want to add a switch to the power cable to make this easier. I don't know much about wiring though.
The mmu2s power cable has 2 hots and 2 negs (4 wires), so I guess I'd need a 24v switch with 8 pins? Cant seem to find any though, they come 4 or 5 pin max.
Anyone have any ideas?
I'm looking at this too, since I just added the MMU2s to the printer.
The two sets of hot and ground conductors are paralleled, so you realistically need only a single pole switch to break the hot (red) lines, which can be connected together. I've found a 3d-printable switch holder which apparently screws into some unused holes on the frame, and I will most likely go that way. I currently just unplug it, but that is clumsy and awkward to do.