6000 hour mark - refurb or scrap?
I have a MK3S+ that I've been using pretty regularly for the past three years and it's got about 240 days of print time on the clock. I've kept it lubricated and fresh build sheets, belt adjustments, recalibration, but I've started to run into a bunch of issues. I replaced both thermistors and I feel like it's time for a whole new hotend as I'm getting clogs regularly, etc... and now I can't get any bed adhesion (printing with PETG on textured sheet). I just got a second printer as this one just seems to be down a lot for different maintenance issues. The new one reminded me how flawlessly these things can operate when in top shape.
The question is, is there a list of things I should accomplish as part of a major overhaul to get this printer back into normal rotation? I am happy to throw a few hundred at it if necessary if it gets it back to a reliable state. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
RE:
I have a MK3S+ that I've been using pretty regularly for the past three years and it's got about 240 days of print time on the clock. I've kept it lubricated and fresh build sheets, belt adjustments, recalibration, but I've started to run into a bunch of issues. I replaced both thermistors and I feel like it's time for a whole new hotend as I'm getting clogs regularly, etc... and now I can't get any bed adhesion (printing with PETG on textured sheet). I just got a second printer as this one just seems to be down a lot for different maintenance issues. The new one reminded me how flawlessly these things can operate when in top shape.
The question is, is there a list of things I should accomplish as part of a major overhaul to get this printer back into normal rotation? I am happy to throw a few hundred at it if necessary if it gets it back to a reliable state. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
I have used my Mk3s+ with an MMU2s on top for probably as long, if not longer. The largest maintenance was exchanging a linear bearing on the y-axis.
What do you mean by "fresh build sheets"? Merely properly cleaned and maybe rejuvianted or a newly purchased brand new sheet? If you can't get good adhesion on a brand new sheet, and your heat bed works properly, it almost has to be a non-optimal z-offset.
Hotends degrading is something I would expect only when printing a lot of abrasive materials. I somehow doubt that your clogging problems are related to a degraded hotend. If your nozzle is partially clogged, it is possible that you can print just fine but experience regular clogging. I would start with cold pulling and then make a reverse temperature tower, starting from the highest temperature, stepwise reducing temperature with every segment down to the minimum temperature stated on your filament. If you encounter clogging at a specific temperature, I would make sure that your printing temperature is at least 5°C above that. If with, optimized settings like that you still encounter cloggs, I would change the nozzle and if you still encounter cloggs, I would repeat this entire procedure with another filament brand. If its still clogging it is maybe time to have a look at the disassembled hotend and maybe get a new one.
Mk3s MMU2s, Voron 0.1, Voron 2.4
240days / 6k hours is actually quite light useage, your machine should be good for at least five time as much. It's probably time for a thorough service, new nozzle, new ptfe tube, drastic clean of the print sheet or a new sheet. You should get many more years from the printer before considering landfill.
Cheerio,
RE: 6000 hour mark - refurb or scrap?
Thank you guys for the replies. I was thinking similarly about doing some serious maintenance on the hot end. I think besides the little things going out on the printer, a main issue I keep having is right after cleaning the build sheet I have adhesion issues until I’ve basically run a layer that doesn’t stick well, kill it and redo the print once or twice. It’s like it’s too slippery. Then I clean the sheet once things start to stick too well. I’m using isopropyl alcohol and paper towel, not going to aggressive just about what you might do to clean a window. Am I doing something wrong or is this normal?
RE: 6000 hour mark - refurb or scrap?
I use Dish Soap and water instead of IPA
regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
RE: 6000 hour mark - refurb or scrap?
Even on the textured PEI sheet? Do you get good life out of them still? Prusa is recommending against any soap and water contact.
RE: 6000 hour mark - refurb or scrap?
I wash, rinse and dry my buildplates quickly.
I have not had any problems with rusting.
I Have worn one (Chinese) textured build plate out.
I still have my Prusa textured and Satin build plates.
My Satin build plate has got various shiney areas where the extra low Z prints burnished the surface
And, where I accidentally over heated the surface with a hot air blower there is a shinier area
but the build plates still work well.
regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
RE: 6000 hour mark - refurb or scrap?
Great to know, thank you! I’ll try that out.
The trick is to wash it just before using, it's sitting around wet that causes rust so wash, put it on the heatbed and warm it up - Prusa know that if they endorsed this there would be a flood of returns from those who interpreted it as being OK to leave it standing in a bucket for a week or two...
I've been doing this for over 5 years and my first print sheet is still useable (on one side), despite mechanical damage there is no rust.
Cheerio,