Prusa3D Forum - Recent Topics

Temporary Forum Admin

Same Old Shane — Thu, 18 Jun 2026 01:09:56 +0000

Greetings all;

I will be out of the office from the 18th and will be returning on the 26th and I will have limited access to work related tools. For here, Tommy (Tommy_Prusa3D CM) is the standing forum admin.

Please be nice, play nice together, there is food in the fridge, and remember, no TV after 10pm.

While I'm gone, I will leave you with some homework... or absolution when I return, depending on your point of view.

What are some of your 3D printing "sins"?

PS... Anyone going to Magicon this upcoming weekend in Oslo, swing by the Prusa booth and say hi :)

Cube with pointy corners - PETG

3d0zer — Wed, 17 Jun 2026 21:24:46 +0000

I am Testprinting a cube 60 x 60 x 20 for testing of warping.

Warping on bed is solved.
Temperature raise in te chamber and hotter first layer.

But, have a problem on the corders, which don't touch the bed.
They get pointy.

Have tried a different infills, gyroid and cube, have tried 40 - 15%.

MaxVolSpeed from 20 - 25, the pics is 25 mm/s MVS no difference.
Speed from 100-140, it does not make much difference.

Filament is very dry.
I think myself it is a temp issue, the outside shrinks to inside and the corners not.
This is why I tried less % infill and different infills.

I hope you can help me here.

Core One+ Bed Adhesion Issues

Jcarter — Wed, 17 Jun 2026 20:12:47 +0000

At my work we received a factory assembled Core One+ and have been running into bed adhesion issues since the first keychain print.

I believe I properly set it up, and did clean the textured sheet with IPA but the first print came off the bed. Since then I tried to clean and print it again and had some success, and another PLA keychain peel off. I just tried to print a part in generic PETG but it failed as it came loose during the printing like the other prints.

I'd hate to do brims on everything, is there any steps that should be taken to improve the bed adhesion?

Thanks.

Prusa Slicer Support nur an Kontaktflächen

Digibike — Wed, 17 Jun 2026 19:16:26 +0000

Hallo zusammen,

ich hab ein großes Teil, daß massiv Support benötigt. Leider. Treibt die Druckzeit in die Höhe und Supportmaterial kostet massiv mehr, als normales Druckmaterial. Überlegung also, Druckmaterial für den Support nehmen, spart massivst Wechselzeiten und teures Wegwerf-Material. Allerdings gibt es da 3 gewaltige Negativpunkte: Punkt 1: Sobald ich Support einem Tool zuweise, wird der Reinigungsturm deaktiviert. Irgendwie muß ich den doch trotzdem nutzen können, den nur mit diesem ist eine saubere Trennung gewährleistet und die Düse bei Druckbegin wirklich stabilisiert gefüllt. Punkt 2: Er macht zwar den Support mit Eigenmaterial und die Kontaktfläche mit dem Support-Tool, aaaaaber nur die Deckenfläche, nicht die Bodenfläche. Äh, nein. Das macht so nicht wirklich viel Sinn, außer, daß es noch mehr Wechsel spart. Die Trennung ist aber sowohl oben, als auch unten wichtig, um den Support sauber raus zu bekommen. Das macht so doch gar keinen Sinn bei dieser Option... So sind 50% weiterhin vernarbt, obwohl man eigentlich geeignetes Supportmaterial hat - oder man verzichtet auf die schnelle und günstige Eigenmaterial-Support-Option und druckt ALLES mit dem teuren Supportmaterial... Punkt 3: Ich kann die Kontaktfläche des Supports ein Tool zu weisen. Super. Nicht aber die Anzahl der Schichten, um das zu realisieren. Bei löslichem Material mag es ja noch ok sein, da dieses sich komplett löst und somit der Rest ohne Kontakt zurück bleibt. Bei nichtlöslichem Supportmaterial geht der Schuß aber nach hinten los, den damit gewinne ich ja bestenfalls eine Layerhöhe, meist auch noch versetzt, wenn es z.b. ein Horizontaler Zylinder ist, der innen abgestützt wird, wo die Verbindung schwächer ist. Ist es Filigran, wird, je nach Supportdichte, trotzdem einiges immer wieder mal in Mitleidenschaft gezogen, wenn es entfernt wird... Irgendwie nicht wirklich zuende gedacht... Oder übersehe ich da was? Beim ersten Punkt mit Sicherheit, weil irgendwie ist mir das sogar schon gelungen, den Wischturm mit Support-Tool zu nutzen - und nein, löslich und nicht löslich sind nicht das Problem, da ich Ihm vorgaukel, daß das Supportmaterial abwechselnd entweder PLA oder PETG ist. Je nachdem, was ich drucke. Von dem her weiß er nur, daß er dieses PLA/PETG für den Support nutzen soll, aber nicht, daß es Support tatsächlich ist. Die Meldung mit dem löslich kenne ich. Daher auch diese Variante.

Gruß, Dibike

Hardened Nozzle Setting

gooner — Wed, 17 Jun 2026 19:02:56 +0000

I can't find the hardened nozzle setting in the Core One Plus menu. I upgraded from a MK4S and remember there used to be a setting for it, I can't find it in the Core One menu. Is there one and if so where is it? I have yet to print with a filament thats needs it and from what I remember in the MK4S it would prompt you if it was not set. Thanks

Nozzle clogs with every print attempt

RobG — Wed, 17 Jun 2026 18:44:25 +0000

This is the second time trying to post this. Last time the site broke and lost my post. Lovely.

I am just about ready to "end" this printer. This thing has never worked WELL. I got to where I only print in PETG for mechanical-type objects (useful rather than pretty). And it had been doing an okay job printing small objects until I moved it from one room into another. Stable print surface, etc. Just setting up a new home office. Ever since doing that, it won't print at all. The nozzle goes down flat against the sheet and so it just pushes melted filament around making a mess of the hot end and clogging the nozzle.

I spent $150 on new nozzles and a cleaning kit. I cleaned the hot end and installed a new nozzle. I ran all of the calibration tests and they passed. Then I wiped off the textured print sheet as I do before every use, and tried to print my object again. Exact same thing happened: Nozzle against the sheet pushing around melted filament and wrecking my new nozzle.

What the heck is going on with this thing? My old MINI+ had a manual first-layer calibration that worked very well. I sure can't find such a setting on this thing. I only got one 0.4mm nozzle so now I have to figure out how to clear it and how to get the z-axis to behave.

Help please?

Every attempt to print clogs the nozzle

RobG — Wed, 17 Jun 2026 18:35:15 +0000

When I first built this thing two years ago, it worked pretty well. It was even working pretty well just a month or so ago. I print almost entirely in PETG because I can't get good prints out of PLA and I really just use it for functional items rather than pretty stuff.

Anyway... I moved the printer location from one room to another. That's it. I picked it up and carried it into another room, set it down and connected it. Ever since, any time I try to print, it looks like the nozzle is all way against the bed and it just smears filament around that won't even stick to the textured sheet that I use and had always worked before (and gets cleaned before each use).

I spent $150 on new nozzles and cleaning supplies. I installed a new nozzle and cleaned up the hot end. Then I went through all of the built-in tests and they passed. So I tried to print again. Same result. I have another clogged nozzle and don't have any more 0.4mm nozzles.

My original printer, a MINI+ had a manual first layer calibration. This thing doesn't appear to. I have no idea why this thing would start behaving this way by simply moving it thirty feet. And how do I calibrate it? AND while I'm here... now how do I clean this brand new nozzle that is clogged?

I'm very frustrated. I am ready to "delete" the printer but frankly, I need it. It gets used rarely but when I use it, it's for something important.

Help please?

Every attempt to print clogs the nozzle

RobG — Wed, 17 Jun 2026 18:35:15 +0000

I'm very frustrated. I am ready to "delete" the printer but frankly, I need it. It gets used rarely but when I use it, it's for something important.

Help please?

Filament broke into pieces in the white tube

1500 — Wed, 17 Jun 2026 12:54:52 +0000

When I noticed that no filament was coming out anymore, I first unloaded the filament.
But I cannot load any new filament, it felt like the outside entrance was stuck.
So I unscrewed the top panel, and saw that the yellow filament is broken is several pieces inside the feeding tube.
I cannot push or pull it from the outside of the printer.
How can I loosen the filament insertion point where it feeds into the Nextruder?
I already unlocked the idler door, and I don't see any 'waste' inside that part of the extruder.
It's just a matter of getting the old filament out, so that I can insert another filament.
Thank you!

EasyTraceSTL: Free, offline & super simple "CAD" / 3D design tool to rebuild models from pictures into print-ready STL files.

goetzpil — Wed, 17 Jun 2026 11:18:22 +0000

Hi together,

I'm not very experienced with CAD programms, so my everyday companion is TinkerCAD.

I miss the option to import pictures to rebuild models, so I created my own "CAD" programm for it.

It's free, give it a try. I haven't done much tests, so it's kind of a beta.

-> https://github.com/goetzpil9/EasyTraceSTL