RE: Benchy in TPU
I neglected to mention that I am using PolyFlex™ TPU95. That is printed direct-fed from my filament dryer
yeah I've had less success with ninjaflex on the printer since I upgraded it to MK4. I actually like Sainsmart better, I get really good results even with the stock profile in the slicer. with the ninjaflex profile and ninjaflex filament I always have to print much hotter and now more extrusion multiplier to get anything half way decent. I don't know if this has to do with the planetary gear etc in the MK4. I did a bench in the sainsmart and other than slight droop in front window it looked perfect. it took a day or two of tweaking to not as good results with the ninjaflex. This is with spending overnight in the filament dryer too.
I'm not super concerned with a little droop on overhang since I would nearly never expect that to work haha. I mostly print keychains for my wife which don't have any overhangs whatsoever. I just want solid extrusion and minimal stringing. Yours looks great though. when I got everything dialed in on mk3, I had some flawless looking benchies in ninjaflex.
Maybe I'll mess with the ninjaflex again more this week. Not all tpus are created equal that's for sure.
Nice @ssill2! In changing the printing orientation to have the bow of the benchy pointed to the front of the mk3s+, I was able to finally get a near flawless result. With the bow pointed eiter left or right, the overhangs on that bow were inconsistent.
Much better now. Also increased the infill to 25%
RE: Benchy in TPU
yeah the higher numbers are generally easier to print. I have a roll of red polyflex 95A. The several rolls of sainsmart I have are 92A, and those print great too with the built in profile for sainsmart tpu. The ninjaflex is 85A so is a little more challenging. the stock profile has it at 237, this SEVERELY under-extrudes starting on the second layer. 248 is mostly ok, but when there are more than 2 perimeters they typically don't even adhere together. basically I have to go to 250-252 and up the extrusion multiplier to get anywhere close. I think I'm going to start using the sainsmart for most things now since that prints very consistently for me.
haha, I've not even considered chinchilla from Ninjatek since that's even softer than ninjaflex lol I'm kind of thinking I need to slow my speed down now on the ninjaflex. I've already gone as low as 3 for the MVS.
I neglected to mention that I am using PolyFlex™ TPU95. That is printed direct-fed from my filament dryer
yeah I've had less success with ninjaflex on the printer since I upgraded it to MK4. I actually like Sainsmart better, I get really good results even with the stock profile in the slicer. with the ninjaflex profile and ninjaflex filament I always have to print much hotter and now more extrusion multiplier to get anything half way decent. I don't know if this has to do with the planetary gear etc in the MK4. I did a bench in the sainsmart and other than slight droop in front window it looked perfect. it took a day or two of tweaking to not as good results with the ninjaflex. This is with spending overnight in the filament dryer too.
I'm not super concerned with a little droop on overhang since I would nearly never expect that to work haha. I mostly print keychains for my wife which don't have any overhangs whatsoever. I just want solid extrusion and minimal stringing. Yours looks great though. when I got everything dialed in on mk3, I had some flawless looking benchies in ninjaflex.
Maybe I'll mess with the ninjaflex again more this week. Not all tpus are created equal that's for sure.
Nice @ssill2! In changing the printing orientation to have the bow of the benchy pointed to the front of the mk3s+, I was able to finally get a near flawless result. With the bow pointed eiter left or right, the overhangs on that bow were inconsistent.
Much better now. Also increased the infill to 25%