Alles soweit bestens, auch die ersten Probedrucke in PLA konnte  ich erfolgreich abschliessen. So macht es Freude!
Gelegentlich ist mir aber in dieser Test-Woche schon aufgefallen, dass sich der Daten-Upload von Druckdaten auf den Original-PRUSA-Stick mit
dem PRUSA-Connect-Tool sehr komisch (unlogisch) verhielt.
Entweder konnte eine Datei gar nicht übertragen werden, oder die Uebertragung startete gar nicht oder brach dann einfach ohne Fehlermeldung ab.

In einer nächsten Beobachtung ist dann der Druck mit einer harten Fehlermeldung wie *G-Code fault* abgebrochen und konnte darauf hin
auch nicht mehr fortgesetzt werden. Bei einem nächsten Druckversuch, mit einem anderem Druck-Objekt, brach der Ausdruck mit gleicher Meldung wieder ab.

Als noch sehr unerfahren in der PRUSA-Welt, habe ich den Fehler zunächst bei mir selbst gesucht und mich hinterfragt, ob ich irgend etwas Wesentliches übersehe.
Klare Ansage: Ich mache nichts falsch.
Dann habe ich mir mal den Original-USB-Stick, der zum Drucker mitgeliefert wird, genauer "zur Brust genommen" und diesen getestet.
Und siehe da: Unter Windows zeigt der USB-Stick lediglich eine RAW-Partition, ohne Formatierung.
Daten sind dann logischerweise keine (mehr) vorhanden, und der Stick lässt sich auch nicht neu formatieren.
Heisst: Der PRUSA-USB-Stick ist bereits nach einer Woche ein Total-Ausfall und kann auch nicht mehr wiederbelebt werden.

Also kurzerhand einen neuen (KINGSTON) USB-Stick formatieren und am PRUSA Core One+ einstecken und mit PRUSA Connect eine
Test-Datei downloaden. Nun druckt der Drucker wieder.
Nur fehlen mir jetzt natürlich die PRUSA Original-Datein mit den Druck-Mustern.
Frage: Wo gibt es diese bei PRUSA zum Download?

Wer kann mir da helfen?

Mam problem s pripojenim tiskarny na wifi na toto zarizeni: Acer Connect M6E přenosný LTE/5G modem

Zkousel jsem vsechny mozne metody, pripojit se rucne z tiskarny, NFC, vytvorit soubor ve Sliceru a ani prd. To zarizeni funguje na vsem ostatnim a na Core One+ se mi to nepodarilo rozbehnout. Neslo mi to ani na tiskarnach MK4 ani MK4s. Na Core One+ wifi jinak funguje, vzal jsem ji na jinou wifi sit a normalne funguje. Resil jsem i ruzne nastaveni zmineneho modemu + zabezpeceni vcetne 2 a GHz a 5GHz siti a zkratka jsem se nikam nepohnul.

Rad bych aby to bylo reseno, nebo bych poprosil nejakou pomoc, rad bych vyuzil tiskarnu na plno a ne jen na tretinu funkci.

Diky.

I've run into a problem where the filament gets stuck for some reason, but the printing doesn't stop and the extruder starts grinding the filament.
I've already done this with two heads.
I'm definitely going to take one of them apart because it was so full of junk. I noticed it too late.I managed to stop the printing with the other one after a few empty layers.
It went further the second time than the first.
I print from a Sunlu S4 dryer. At first I thought that maybe the piping was too steep. But the second time it wasn't a problem. In principle.

The material is BambuLab PLA Silk. The last time I printed well with the BambuLab X1C. That was more than a year ago. I dried the material continuously in the S4 for 6 hours at night. The drying didn't stop even after the continuous cycle, until the desired humidity was reached inside the device.
I already turned off the drying when printing. Also, I didn't dry it before the second attempt and it printed further than the first. So I would rule out filament that is too wet.
For the filament, I used values ​​from the default settings of BambuStudio, such as the extruder multiplier 0.98, print temperature 220 °C.The bed temperature remained 60 °C, the max volumetric speed 15 instead of 21.I also printed in 0.20mm Structural mode.It's the same model.

The filament could be pulled out with a filament unloader.
The picture of the filament is a piece taken out of the first extruder.
It's still in the second one, I took a picture of it at the extruder wheel, as it looks right now.

What could be the problem? Is XL allergic to BambuLab materials? I don't think I've printed BambuLab materials with it yet. I've printed a lot of Sunlu and Prusament. And a couple of other brands too. I have several rolls of BambuLab material because of the X1C, although I already loved Prusament, so I have more of it.
But for two or more colors like this, I can only reach for the brand that makes it.
What else I can do is try to print the model with another material. I have one loaded, and I printed successfully with it yesterday. If that also gets stuck, then the problem is probably with the model.

Although I recently had a model that I printed 4 copies of one by one and the printing stopped at the same point in all 4 due to a filament jam. There really wasn't a problem. The filament came out smoothly and went back without cutting and the printing continued without any problems. It was Prusament material.

Now I don't even understand why it didn't stop. In the first case, I clearly heard the extruder clicking. I looked, but unfortunately I didn't notice that the material wasn't coming. I was clearly blind, I wasn't looking at it from the right angle.

It would be nice if someone could give me some tips and advice on how to print with Bambu materials. I don't want to throw them away, and I don't have anyone I can give them to. It would also be nice to print with this color combination, but that's not why I'm buying a Bambu printer.

It seems from reddit posts most have printed front and back as 2 separate stls and then glued the 2 pieces together.

We're interested in printing many as free giveaways and gluing them together could be time consuming on a work project that has a deadline of 2 days ago. Plus, we worry re: glue and the public not always being the best bet.

Has anyone printed a 2 sided coin by standing the coin up vertical on the bed to print on both sides?

Appreciate you sharing your experiences and what you've learned from them.

Thank you!

Does this happen to anyone else?

A brief story of how I got involved in this topic:

I work at a dental lab, and we received an SL1S printer. Everything was going well until it came time to clean the finished models. The original spatula is sharp as a knife, and when you (unintentionally) make sudden movements to cut the models off the supports, the spatula slips and cuts your hand. That’s exactly how I sliced open my palm. I showed the cut to the neural network, and it suggested I switch to Wham Bam flexible magnetic plates. Without checking anything, I immediately ordered three of them.

As soon as they arrived, I opened the same neural network and asked for installation instructions—and that’s when the real fun began. It started telling me about some spacers, that I needed to take apart the printer, design a replacement part, print it on another printer, and other illogical advice. I opened the official Wham Bam website and found out that there are no such plates for the SL1S at all, and the developer strongly advises against using them with this type of printer. 😂😂😂 

After that, I found this thread on the forum, which plunged me into even deeper despair. https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-sl1-how-do-i-print-this-printing-help/wham-bam/I also want to point out how differently people treat their equipment. I worry about micro-scratches on the screen and replace it, while other people (literally) use the printer tray as an anvil. 😂😂 It’s certainly none of my business, but it really shocked me. That’s the background. But I didn’t give up and decided to give it a try (since I already had these pads on hand), and here’s my experience:

In short, I didn’t do anything special at all, and the result surprised me.

1. First, I degreased the table and stuck the magnet on. It’s impossible to stick it on perfectly because it doesn’t fit the size. The guy from the forum I mentioned earlier as an example decided to cut it to size—he sawed, bent, and pressed it—and I think that was his main mistake, since the table surface likely has some kind of coating or finish (like on the MK4S table). I taped down the edges (flaps) that stick out with regular clear tape so they wouldn’t peel off.

2. CRITICAL POINT. DON’T DO ANYTHING STUPID. Both the neural network, online commenters, AND EVEN THE MANUAL ITSELF insist that you install some 3mm spacers. THE SL1S PRINTER DOES NOT NEED A SPACER. There is simply nowhere to put it, and there is NO REASON TO. When you perform calibration, the printer responds to the pressure sensor and then sets a new zero point.

2.1 CALIBRATION. This is the only thing you need to do, and it’s the most important part.

My calibration went perfectly, with no surprises. In fact, when you loosen the bolt at the very beginning of the calibration, your table is in a semi-free state. So there’s still a centimeter of travel left (UP), meaning there’s zero chance of hitting or pushing the build matrix.

3. Set the dimensions of the new virtual plate/table in two clicks. You can skip this step, but make sure not to place the models on the edge where there is no surface.

4. I’m running the first models. An hour later, as you can see, everything turned out perfectly. Don’t pay attention to the artifact—the hole on the side—it’s a CAD bug. The models came out perfectly. I used “Prusament Resin Flex Gingiva Mask” and the default print settings (0.1 mm, fast). Also, out of habit, before printing, I degreased the (already fresh and new) surface of the Wham Bam magnetic pad with 97% alcohol.

After a while, I ran the second batch. It turned out just as great.

That’s basically it! I didn’t do anything out of the ordinary, not even what’s written in the instructions. I just attached it and calibrated it. So I can confidently recommend this product to you. The spatula is now in the trash. I’ll keep you updated if any issues come up later. Feel free to reach out for more info—I’ll pass it on to you.

If you found my article helpful and want to show your appreciation, subscribe to my YouTube channel featuring Lo-Fi music, which I just started but plan to fill with music very soon and very frequently. https://www.youtube.com/@AnZMusic-1

Thank you! 

• Step 74 – Installing the CoreXY assembly: https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-corexy-assembly_982276#992522
• Step 79 – Fixing the Bed‑Stop: https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/5-corexy-assembly_982276#992752

What I’m seeing:

1. Step 74 The rear Z threaded rod is not centered and actually touches the Bed‑Stop‑Rear. When looking from the front of the printer, the rod touches on the left side.
2. Step 79 I cannot mount the Bed‑Stop‑Rear to the back plate because the holes are misaligned by about 1 cm. From the front view, the Bed‑Stop sits too far to the left, so the screw cannot reach the hole in the back plate.
3. CoreXY plate orientation mismatch Comparing my CoreXY plate with the manual photos, the hole under the small triangle is on the opposite side. In the manual, the hole is under the triangle on the left. On my unit, the hole is under the triangle on the right.

My questions:

• Has anyone else encountered this exact combination of issues during assembly?
• Is it possible that I was shipped the wrong CoreXY plate or a different revision?

Thanks in advance!