Am I supposed to put in a manual filament change code?  I don't see how because the change is not at a layer boundary.  I have attached a pic of the extruder/filament list.  The print is just a bit too big to print as one unit so I had to break it into 2 parts and each letter became a part.  I merged them back together (I think).

Thanks for any help.

Need some help - I struggle to print anything larger than about 100x100 without the corners warping off the print bed - see pics example.

I get this in PLA, PETG, ASA, PC.  I used to get it with the MK4s - then upgraded to Core One and it still happens.

I've tried Brim of various types, slightly changing the print bed temp (5 deg higher).

It seems to get worse with higher fill-rates.

Any suggestions really appreciated.

I contacted support through live chat and I was asked to disconnect the door sensor and restart the printer again, I did this and I got the whole range of options as normal but it was for the mk4 and not the core one, I was then asked to update the mk4 firmware but as the old mk4 was up to date this didn't do anything, I was then asked to do some of the various reset options which I did but none of them worked. By this time I decided that I was getting nowhere and ended the chat.

So now I have a core one printer that thinks it is a mk4, complete with mk4 firmware. So could someone please tell me how to get rid of the mk4 firmware and load the core one firmware to get this costly pile of parts up and running.

its Connected to the wifi 2.4  ghz network 

so is my iPhone 

but it will never t connect 

I loved my prusa . 
but is nightmare 

how can I fix this 

I’m living  in Zuid Holland

please help me

ich würde gern anstelle eines Reinigungsturms eines der Objekte auf der Druckplatte zum Reinigen benutzen. Ich habe die Funktion einem Objekt hinzugefügt und beide Haken gesetzt - aber nach dem Slicen sieht man nicht, dass die eine Figur (keine Kopie, eine eigene Figur) als Poop-Tower genutzt würde. 

Was mache ich falsch?

Ihave an enclosure with a slot for a mounting bracket. Perpendicular to that slot there is a hole for a bolt which will hold the enclosure in place and prevent the box from jumping off the bracket (see fig. 1). The slot has a "gabled roof" by design to avoid the need for supports within the slot (see fig. 2). The slot is only 1.7mm wide so won't be able to clean it out and remove and supports.

Figure 1: The entire enclosure in my CAD program

Figure 2: Cross section of the enclosure box with the "gable roof" at the top of the slot for the mounting bracket

However, I want to have supports for the holes for the bolt and the washer. It's easy to remove the supports with a drilling bit after the print. However the slicer creates supports for the washer pocket (fig. 3) and the bolt hole (fig. 4), which is fine, but also "extends" the support through the slot (fig. 5+6). How can I avoid that?

Figure 3: Washer pocket with supports after slicing

Figure 4: Bolt hole with supports after slicing

Figure 5: Additional undesired extra support within the slot seen from below

Figure 6: Additional undesired extra support within the slot between both holes

As you can see I have already marked the entire inside of the slot, incl. the "roof" to block supports (fig. 7) and only the upper part of both holes is marked for supports (fig. 8). Still, Prusa slicer creates a "connecting" support between both holes.

Figure 7: Slicer settings to block supports from the entire slot

Figure 8: Slicer settings to create supports for the upper surface of the hole

at day time i want it to be bright 

at night time i want to dim it down

at bed time i want it to be completely off since its sitting in my bedroom 

for now i have to do everything on the little LCD screen on the machine. Can admin add the feature to control the back light & color LED light in the PRUSA APP? Able to set the % and ON/OFF will be great. Adding day / night mode will be even better.

Cheers

Please have a read and let me know if any corrections are needed. Besides some very minor formatting issues I think it is pretty solid at this point. 

There is options from E3D Revo High‑Temp (HT‑X) 

https://e3d-online.com/products/revo-high-temperature-hotside?variant=41437847388219

Even with a 450 °C hotend, PEEK needs:

Chamber: 90–160 °C

Bed: 120–160 °C

Ambient stability: no drafts, no cooling fans

I have the enclosure kit for the XL, but it looks like its a stretch.