RE: Popping and bubbles in print
I've seen this issue in a lot of places, with people always saying the filament is wet, but it's the retraction settings. Try disabling retraction completely by setting the retraction length to 0 and you'll get no more popping. Up it in increments of 0.5mm to find the right spot for your printer. Mine is around 1.5mm. Reducing the retraction speed could help as well.
I had no issues like this with Prusament, but Hatchbox and Inland PLA+ both need this adjustment due to popping and gaps. Honestly I'm at the point where I might just pay extra for Prusament going forward to avoid the headache as my prints still aren't dialed in when using another brand.
RE:
And yes, you're right.
I had similar issues, popping all over the place, gaps everywhere.
I even put the filament in an oven for over 7 hours to let it dry; with no luck.
Based on your post i lowered retraction and speed, with success!
I am now trying to find the sweet spot with distance and speed.
I will set the distance fixed and try different speeds. I've read somewhere that speeds too high might cause the filament to detach from what is in the tip of the nozzle.
I only have this issue with Formfutura Vulcano and Kexcelled K5. Haven't seen this with Polymaker so far, but i haven't printed this particular model with Polymaker yet. Will try that too with the high settings.
RE: Popping and bubbles in print
Yeah I guess air gets trapped when the retraction is too high then eventually pops out, which is where the gaps come from. I'd be interested to know what exactly is the difference in the filaments that makes this present in some brands but not others like prusament. Anyway, glad I could help someone.
RE: Popping and bubbles in print
I also discovered that the nozzle temperature also has some effect. Higher: more popping.
Brands also matter, with PolyLite i never have this issue, on all temps and retraction numbers.
RE: Popping and bubbles in print
I'm working my way through this exact issue with the popping and some Hatchbox filament. Can you describe what I'm looking for as I attempt to adjust the retraction distance (and speed)? If I set the retraction length to zero and that resolves the popping, why would I try increasing it -- what am I looking for to know it's the "right spot" for the printer. Really appreciate you sharing this information here, this popping thing has been driving me crazy for a long, long time now.
Don't be fooled by this thread.
99% of the time popping, fizzing, bubblng, excess stringing and oozing are all caused by damp filament.
Even new filament can be damp - it's new to you but you have no way to know how long it was in the warehouse or how it was treated there or in transit. Dry filament can become too damp to print in just a few hours of exposure so...
Dry your filament, restore factory presets; and you will probably be OK.
Cheerio,
RE: Popping and bubbles in print
I agree, in my experience.. poping and things are usually caused by damp filament or the wrong hotend temperature..
many times I’ve found cheaper filament can come damp even vacuum sealed in the bag. Get some silica packets and leave them in a ziplock bag for a few days and try again. Also make sure your temps are right.. not all PLA is the same. Some work best at 195-205 some prefer 215-235 even. Should be listed on the spool.
RE: Popping and bubbles in print
If there's a bubbling and/or popping, something is causing it, and it's most likely the moisture in the filament boiling off. It's a tell-tale symptom.
RE: Popping and bubbles in print
Maybe it depends on where you live, but I leave PLA out in the open air and see no difference in prints with new filament and filament that's been sitting out for well over a year. I had a piece I made fall of my desk and break. Had a little bit of the original filament left that was definitely over a year old and reprinted the broken piece. You cannot tell which is the original and which is the newer piece.
It just seems to be like the bogeyman in threads like these where people dismiss someone's issues with "oh it's wet filament" without looking any deeper. Could it be wet filament? I guess. But it's worth looking at other possibilities first, especially if the issue persists across multiple different rolls.
On the contrary, always dry the filament at the first sign of trouble - or as a matter of course. It costs little, makes no long term changes to your setup which may turn out to be erroneous and causes no harm.
I too can leave filament out for days without problems; sometimes; in the winter when the heating is on. At other times a freshly dried spool may absorb water so fast that the last half of a long print is severely degraded.
It just seems to be like the bogeyman in threads like these where people dismiss someone's issues with "oh it's wet filament" without looking any deeper. Could it be wet filament? I guess. But it's worth looking at other possibilities first, especially if the issue persists across multiple different rolls.
It is never worth looking at other possibilities first, especially not when all the rolls are stored in the same way.
Cheerio,
RE: Popping and bubbles in print
Just wanted to check back in on this. I set the retraction length to 0.8 and the popping sound entirely went away, and the gaps in my prints are no longer occurring.
Please note that I have two minis that sit side by side, before making this change I could move the exact same filament between the machines, and it would pop on one and not the other. Not sure why so many are adamant that the problem HAS to be damp filament. Like I said, adjusting the retraction completely solved this for me -- wish I could have gotten this advice from Prusa support several months ago.
RE:
Just wanted to check back in on this. I set the retraction length to 0.8 and the popping sound entirely went away, and the gaps in my prints are no longer occurring.
Please note that I have two minis that sit side by side, before making this change I could move the exact same filament between the machines, and it would pop on one and not the other. Not sure why so many are adamant that the problem HAS to be damp filament. Like I said, adjusting the retraction completely solved this for me -- wish I could have gotten this advice from Prusa support several months ago.
I had the same issue with the bondtech heatbreak. There I had to lower retraction to stop the "pop" problem. In general everybody tells you that it is the filament. But sometimes it is something else, like retraction lenght or speed.
RE: Popping and bubbles in print
Like i posted before, this specific filament brand pops when retraction is set too large. Also temperature has influence.
I agree that most of the time it's caused by damp filament. But, as i posted before, i dried it for hours, did not help.
RE: Popping and bubbles in print
I had this same issue, little holes all over the print, but it was confounded by the fact I hadn't dialed in ASA settings, I had assumed the blobbing was from insufficient retraction (and Polymaker recommends way too much retraction distance) and kept turning it up! I needed to print colder and slower, and actually reduce the retraction distance!
RE: Popping and bubbles in print
Any filament that I'm using with my Prusa Mini+ is at all times in an Eibos Cyclopes filament dryer. It is always used. It does not matter if I dry the filament for ten hours before print start and continue drying it throughout the print. The holes are still there. Wet filament is not the cause of this. I also see that this is a reoccurring problem that people point out time and time again in this forum. It's a Prusa Mini problem, not a filament problem. I've also seen someone comment that it might be related to newer Prusa Minis, as their older Minis work just fine. Using a lower nozzle temperature reduces the problem, and if low enough eliminates it. Sometime that means slightly lower than recommended temperature. It doesn't really matter what brand of filament. I've had this problem for about two months so far. I've tried FilamentPM, Prima Select, eSUN, FlashForge etc.. They all result in these little holes, drying the filament does not help.