Sto provando a stampare vari oggetti con Prusament ASA, per quelli più piccoli non ho riscontrato grandi problemi, ma per quelli medio/grandi ho riscontrato un leggero (ma fastidioso) problema di warping. 

Utilizzando il profilo di default per Prusament ASA su Prusa Slicer ho riscontrato vari problemi di warping così ne ho creato uno personalizzato che ha risolto molto il problema ma non del tutto.

Vi condivido il progetto del pezzo che sto provando a stampare:

fan structure.3mf

questo è il fastidioso warping che ancora ottengo su tutti gli angoli

Vi ringrazio in anticipo 😀 

I tried printing with ABS, but it started to sag/warp at an angle and eventually got knocked off by the extruder.

I’m still pretty new to 3D printing, so I’d really appreciate any advice on how to fix this.

I know ASA would probably be the better option, but for now I’m stuck with ABS.

The model I’m printing is from Printables. It’s the “2021–2024 Chevy Suburban Traffic Advisor Light Bar Mount.” Normally I’d blame the model… but unfortunately, I’m the one who designed it 😂

I am trying to print a "tall" object on my MK4s on 6.4.0 with a 0.6 Obxidian nozzle and PETG-CF and it, again, failed mid print. It was upgraded from a MK4 three months ago. The first print failed after 3 hours with a 2-cm layer shift. The second one had a first small shift after about 3 hours and a large one 5 hours in. See the second print in pictures as well as the Y-Belt.

What I did between the first and second print based on other topics on this:

- Adjust Y-Belt tension (it was slightly too tight)

- Adjust X-Belt tension (it was slightly too tight)

- Checked all screws around the y -  assembly and heatbed sled. Some needed about a quarter turn.

- The pulley on the y motor was and is tightly fixed

- Replaced USB stick with industrial sd-card in case there was a corruption

- Reduced travel acceleration from 4000mm/s² to 3000mm/s²

- Manually moving the heatbed back to front feels smooth

I am a bit at a loss what else it could be. So far its 25€ of filament wasted. The surface of the belt looks a bit funny compared to the x-belt, but the teeth seem ok.

Does anyone have any recommendations?

And the most straightfoward way is to open the GCode output file in Prusa GCode Viewer, and then convert the ASCII GCode into BGCode.

But when I export a file from OrcaSlicer 2.3.2, it keeps crashing "Invalid ascii gcode file"

Anyone else had this problem, and how did you resolve it?

Greg

I replaced the thermistor and the print fan, but the problems continue.  Oddly, I can get 4 hours into a 5 hour print before it crops up for the first time.  Tonight, I was about 1 hour into a 3 hour print.  I've double checked that the thermistor wires are above the heater wires.  Still, it beeps at about 6,000 decibels and pauses.  Fortunately, I can resume it since I'm printing from an SD card.  

What else can I look at to rid myself of this pain?

I moved the switch that is supposed to make it easier to push filament through, but it makes no difference.  (There does appear to be less resistance after I have pushed the filament through, but it does not make it any easier to get the filament to pass through initially.)

Cutting the filament to a sharp point sometimes helps, but not always.  Rotating the filament as I'm pushing it through sometimes helps.  Wiggling the base of the PTFE tube as it enters the sensor sometimes helps.

It just seems to me like there's something misaligned inside that prevents the filament from being pushed through, no matter how hard you press (enough to bend the filament and put a crease in it, and it still won't go through).

Is this normal, or is it a sign that I have not quite assembled the side filament sensor properly?

I would appreciate any help you can provide or links for videos for me to watch on how to fix this. Please talk to me like I'm an idiot, though while technologically savvy, I've never messed with 3d printers before. 

Thanks in advance. 

There's only 16 large boxes in the viewer in that same Prusa Slicer 2.9.4

Are you only given those 16 larger squares when the mini-Prusa is  the chosen printer?

reddit and Googled results suggest making all the sorts of settings  changes but before I do that maybe it's just a matter that the mini-Prusa has such a small bed all the other squares within those 16 boxes are not needed for the mini-Prusa?

Thank you for your insights and help.